Jan Olsson Posted November 9, 2005 Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 Hi there everyone. It´s been a while since the last post I made, in March I believe? I had problems with a weak cylinder and bought a compression tester just to find out that the no 1 cylinder almost had no compression. I finally started to work on the car last weekend! God knows there´s been a lot of obsticles in my way to get here.... The first problem was to get the time and a place to work on the car. The simpliest solution was to do this at my parents house (155 miles away from here) on my vacation (I´m living in an apartment with no garage) so I got my old Eldorado back on the road again in the meanwhile (bought some new tires, brakes etc) I ordered parts to the STS including OEM mufflers, factory manual (Helms) and a time-sert kit from USA. Everybody were most helpful but somehow everything got delayed (backorders, erroneous deliverys etc) then I got married and my vacation was gone. When I had all the parts it took until now to get another week off. I installed the mufflers and tore the engine apart in the vehicle. One exhaust valve was cracked and the corresponding seat was badly worn so I took the head to a local well renowned engine rebuilder to get a refacing of the valves and seats. He did that in 2 days for a cost of 125$ with a new valve. Like he said "I havn´t done one of those but I cant´t see why it would be different from any other engine" He didn´t need to replace the seat or any of the guides (I gave him a copy of the specs from the Helms manual) and he said that the head just showed normal evidence of wear, nothing to be worried about. The cylinders, cams, and bearings looked almost as good as new. First I was planning on timeserting both heads but the right head gasket (that I pulled) looked perfekt and the cooling system don´t use a drop of water so I´m planning to leave the left it as it is, and the compression values are perfect for the entire cylinder bank too. The headbolts were all very tight too. Better don´t mess with something that works perfectly alright. If the worst ever will happen to that bank it will be a lot easier and more comfortable than the right one that I was doing beeing 6´2" and all. The engine rebuilder states exactly the same thing that bbobynski. Ie driving like an old fart is killing the engine rather than driving on the a-bahn (carbon build-ups and lifters raising pressure with time causing the valves not to close etc.) Im the 4th owner of this car so I guess anything could have made this happen. Anyway, this weekend I´m planning on putting the last bits and pieces in place and do some anti-corrosive treatment to the cooler lines. If I get the time I will take a look at the caliphers and discs too. Then I´m planning on some rust-protection and reconditioning before winter storage. It´s a shame to put it away for the winter when it is the best winter car I ever had, but the xxx salt is a real killer Sorry for the long and winding post. Anyway, I´m looking for the right torque readings for a -93 STS. The factory manual states 30 Nm and aditionally 2x90° but I have seen other numbers here on the board, 40 Nm, 70°, 60° and last 45° pull. Witch one should I have used? Another question, whats up with bbobynski? Seems like he left us for good? Don´t se him in the members list anymore Thanks for youre patience, I´ll post some pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 Pictures taken with my cell phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 Lets try again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 A drilled and tapped headbolt hole... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2005 You can hardly see it but the seat is eccentric with the guide and the seat is way to wide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 Either torque method will work. I used the first one that you noted from the service manual. I have successfully replaced the head gaskets on both of my '93' STS's. If you have both heads off, I would advise you to TimeSert ALL of the holes. Often when you torque down the heads, the threads will pull out of the hole. It may seem like extra work, but it is a lot easier now, then having to pull the head back off if one bolt strips. Additionally, the bolts are coated with special thread-locking material on the threads, and a special lubricant/sealer under the bolt head. Be sure to use all of the new bolts provided with the head gasket kit. -George Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted November 11, 2005 Report Share Posted November 11, 2005 Jan, if you need anything for the engine that you can not get in Sweden, let me know, I can ship it to you. I have Paypal so it will be easy. Thanks for the pictures, impressive job you are doing. Let me know if you need anything, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2005 Thanks George for the info about the torque, nice to know I have timeserted the right head that I pulled, didn´t touch the left one at all. Seems like the left one is ok according the the compression values. The old headgasket looked as good as new and the bolts were all real tight on the rear head too so I decided to leave the left head, hopefully it will last a long time and I got the parts if it ever fails for me. I know myself....if i had pulled the left head I would be tempted to tear it apart and have all the valves and seats trued up, would take me forever to get it all together again, ie I would set the goals even higher and higher and turn up 40 with a car better than new.... Thanks Scotty! I really appreciate that. Got all the parts but thanks for the offer! I was planning on putting the last bits and pieces together this weekend but I´ve got ill so I´ll have to wait for the next weekend. My wife is planning on buying an old Jeep Cherokee next week, as a family car. I really like 4wd cars, and best of all I don´t need to use the STS on the salty roads. But the average mpg would be like 15 I believe... When the spring comes I´ll be happier than ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted November 12, 2005 Report Share Posted November 12, 2005 when you say left/right head, I assume you mean frt/back since it is a transverse engine? I would think the firewall head would be a bear to remove. of course, that head is always the 1 that has a problem. I also assume that parts/cars are very expensive. due to taxes or something like that? I don't know what the used car market is like over there. if you went down to the local used car lot, what would you expect to pay for a 10yr old STS or ETC with average miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted November 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2005 Yes, right=rear head. Parts are VERY expencive if you don´t order them directly from the states. The mufflers for instance, I´ve been quoted 700$ each, bought them for half the price.. You´ll have to pay about 12000-15000$ for a mid 90`s STS with about 8000 miles on the counter. I bought my STS for about 8500$ for 3 years ago and that was with the "Service ride control", all rotted up mufflers, hesitating running too But after this it´s hust some minor fixes, ie. undercoating, rear struts, grill badge and CD-player. Counting on having it all in good condition in next spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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