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Control arm assemblys


chris_feaster

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I took my `96 STS in to the shop because the car is wandering a good bit, like I'm driving in ruts, especially at high speeds. The rep said that it took three tech's to find the problem and that it is the rear control arm assemblys. $930 in parts alone!

Help!

Ideas? Can I get these cheaper elsewhere for someone else to install?

Thanks!

- Chris

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I took my `96 STS in to the shop because the car is wandering a good bit, like I'm driving in ruts, especially at high speeds. The rep said that it took three tech's to find the problem and that it is the rear control arm assemblys. $930 in parts alone!

Help!

Ideas? Can I get these cheaper elsewhere for someone else to install?

Thanks!

- Chris

Get a clarification from him, is it lower control arms or knuckles? If they say lower control arms ask them what is wrong with the lower control arms. But I doubt it, I think they mean knuckles IF, the car is wandering, let us know, Mike

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Chris,

If the control arm(s) are literally broken, as in a section of it has snapped or cracked, then that would cause major driveability issues. Even if the control arm bushings were worn substantially it would still drive reasonably ok. Now if the knuckle bushings were substantially worn..... that would be a problem you could really feel. If it is the knuckle bushings then you're still going to shell out some dough. The knuckles are around $300 each (1 per side) for the rears. I bought mine online and had my regular mechanic install it. Paid 1 hour or 1 and a half hrs worth of labor to have it installed.

Deciding between control arm(s) or knuckle replacement is hard because it's difficult to figure out which part is actually worn. Take some comfort in knowing that GM sells a whole lot more knuckles than they do control arms.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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I don't recall them specifically mentioning knuckles, but they did say that the bushings are shot/gone, and the bill says control arm assemblies.

The mechanic did also say that it is unsafe to drive, and even the wife refuses to drive it, and I don't feel safe taking it over 80 - 90 mph (you see my problem!)

From where did you buy your car parts?

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I don't recall them specifically mentioning knuckles, but they did say that the bushings are shot/gone, and the bill says control arm assemblies.

The mechanic did also say that it is unsafe to drive, and even the wife refuses to drive it, and I don't feel safe taking it over 80 - 90 mph (you see my problem!)

From where did you buy your car parts?

Do me a favor. Call them and ask them armed with this knowledge, whether he is talking about control arms or knuckles. Mike

#27 is the control arm and exactly where the #27 arrow is pointing there are bushings at both inner connecting points, those can be replaced (see two green circles at the inner connecting points on the control arm those are the replaceable bushings). The knuckle is not too visible in this shot its behind the rotor/hub assembly, but when those bushings go bad (there is a green circle around the lower knuckle bushing) the knuckle is replaced as an assembly the bushings are not replaceable. Print this thread and fax it too him if you want. Let us know what you find out

post-3-1131545965_thumb.jpg

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The caddy rep said that the knuckles were fine and that the control arms aren't broke, but that the bushings are shot.

And this is why we wonder why they're marking you up for almost 1000 clams in parts alone. Those bushings are not that expensive. Do you have a parts list from the $930 quote they gave you?

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Yes, he circled the two bushings that I circled, but it appears he circled them with a little attitude! LOL!!

Check www.gmotors.com you can get an ON-LINE price quote, also try www.rockauto.com but you need to call them because they don't show rear suspensions unless I am blind....

Well, I went to Rockauto.com. They for some reason, unless I am missing it, they don't show a listing for the rear suspension, so I am unable to find prices for either the rear control arm or the rear control arm bushings.

BUT, they show the lower control arm bushings for the front control arm (also two required) and they are $12.68 each (your rear bushings will be similar in price). Obviously (and since you are paying for it) the dealer feels that its easier to replace the entire control arm than to press in 4 bushings. If I were you, (if they are bad) is find a good FRONT END guy...... Look for a good one, and ask him what he would charge to do your rear control arm bushings. My guess is he will be a LOT cheaper!

I recently had my lower control arms down because I did rear springs. For a DIY its not even a bad job (but it can be dangerous) because if you have (or RENT) a transmission jack you can release the spring pressure and remove the control arm and TAKE the control arm to a machine shop and have them press the bushings in for you, BAM, done deal. I am very surprised that those bushings are worn out! Glad we could help you with this.....

PS: Why is this job dangerous? The manual states to use a tranny jack to release the spring pressure and to drop the control arm... Me trying to save a $25 tranny jack rental, used my floor jack. When I went to install my control arm it binded up, NOT knowing that it bound up, I let the jack down about a half-inch BEFORE, yep the spring pressure slammed the control arm down on my floor jack and broke it internally. Something is wrong with the hydraulics (my Nascar low profile jack is history). Spring pressure is very dangerous, if you are not comfortable with it, I don't advise it. It was not really easy with a floor jack...but possible

Use a transmission jack if you do it regardless, its hard to raise the control arm up straight and level with the small footprint of a floor jack.

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Chris,

Heck if you send me your control arm and a check for $500 I'll order the bushings and push them into place. I'm kidding of course. First you might want to take your car to another reputable garage and see what they think. Sure we here at caddyinfo.com could save you a lot of money by steering you to inexpensive parts vendors but that would be a complete waste of time and money if the control arm bushings aren't the problem. There is a credibility issue with the current garage so pretty much everything goes out the window until you can determine what the real problem is..... of course it could actually be the control arm bushings. Get another garage to look at it. Then we can help you from there. And I'm sure we can save you money.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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You know, Kger2 hits the nail on the head

I thought I read that you took the car to the dealer, but you took it to a shop, what kind of shop?

I have a 96, and my bushings where not bad and I have 77K miles. That is why I said before I am very surprised that those bushings are worn out, its very possible that your control arm bushings are good and its STILL the knuckles.

Like I said before, find a good front end shop, and have them look your rear suspension over. You are now armed with the knowledge that all bushings EXCEPT the knuckle bushings can be replaced which is replaced as an entire assembly. Show them this thread if you think it will help

We hear of knuckle problems all the time, we RARELY hear of control arm bushings causing alignment problems (not that it can't be true its just rare if they are)...

Let us know what you find out.. Mike

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The caddy rep said that the knuckles were fine and that the control arms aren't broke, but that the bushings are shot.

He circled the part to be repaired/replaced in the included picture.

Kger2, Chris did say caddy rep.... It looks like this problem was diagnosed at the dealer! I would still find a good suspension/front end mechanic..

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