adallak Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Water pipes (see the picture) have been scaring me all the time. They were so badly rusted. And finally it happened. Coolant fountains from the crack (red on the picture). Anybody with similar experience? Any part numbers for the pipe assembly? OK, just called to the dealer. the part is called "heater outlet pipe" The part numbers are 3530658 and 3530659 a 3/4 hose is used for connections. The parts are $27 and $38 in case someone needs them. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Here is how the pipe looks like. Replacing the part which goes to the water pump is going to be difficult because of the AC compressor. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill K Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I thought you said "Crack Pipe" and I thought I was on the wrong forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I thought you said "Crack Pipe" and I thought I was on the wrong forum. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 I thought you said "Crack Pipe" and I thought I was on the wrong forum. That forum is down the hall... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Here is how the pipe looks like. Replacing the part which goes to the water pump is going to be difficult because of the AC compressor. Don't bother replacing the pipe assemblies; cut-off the rusted portions and use a longer length of hose to make the connection. A quick alternative might be to slip some hose over the rusted portion(s) and clamp the ends. Also inspect the 'hidden' area where the pipe crosses over the sub-frame, near the A/C compressor. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Here is how the pipe looks like. Replacing the part which goes to the water pump is going to be difficult because of the AC compressor. Don't bother replacing the pipe assemblies; cut-off the rusted portions and use a longer length of hose to make the connection. A quick alternative might be to slip some hose over the rusted portion(s) and clamp the ends. Also inspect the 'hidden' area where the pipe crosses over the sub-frame, near the A/C compressor. Kevin, My first reaction was exactly what you are proposing. But the parts are really inexpensive, so I decided to replace the pipe which goes to the heater valve (the "T") and cut the other pipe and make a connection with some 4-5" long piece of 3/4" heater hose. I tried to inspec the hidden part og the pipe but could not. I assume that part must be fine. I'll report back on Thursday as the job is hopefully done. Thanks for the reply. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Today I replaced one of the pipes and cut the rotten part off the other. Then a 8'' long 3/4" heater hose connected the pipes. The following pictures show the condition of old pipes by the connection point, new pipe assembly (consists of two parts) and final look of the assembly after the repair was finished. QUESTION: My water pump appeared to be air locked for some 10 minutes while idling after radiator was refilled (did not notice in time....). I poured about 1 qtr of coolant into the system through the hose by "T" and everything was fine. Do you think I have damaged the water pump running it dry? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 another one: The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 and finally: The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 That green hose is silicone, and its quite an expensive little sucka.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 <<QUESTION: My water pump appeared to be air locked for some 10 minutes while idling after radiator was refilled (did not notice in time....). I poured about 1 qtr of coolant into the system through the hose by "T" and everything was fine. Do you think I have damaged the water pump running it dry? >> It looks like another case where DEXCool was left in too long and became caustic. What a mess! The water pump housing probably had some water in it but did not vent properly, so your pump is probably OK. . There have been reports of the pump vent fitting plugging up due to deterioration of hoses. Yours is a prime candidate for that! Since it is so high, you don't need to drain any water to pull it . The filling instructions say to initially fill the expansion tank up to the metal barrier that you can see inside the tank. The height of this water will fill the engine and if your pump vent is functioning properly it should quickly start to circulate. One more thing, the radiator cap and the thermotat a candidates for replacement if more than 5 years old. Jim in Phoenix Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 <<QUESTION: My water pump appeared to be air locked for some 10 minutes while idling after radiator was refilled (did not notice in time....). I poured about 1 qtr of coolant into the system through the hose by "T" and everything was fine. Do you think I have damaged the water pump running it dry? >> It looks like another case where DEXCool was left in too long and became caustic. What a mess! The water pump housing probably had some water in it but did not vent properly, so your pump is probably OK. . There have been reports of the pump vent fitting plugging up due to deterioration of hoses. Yours is a prime candidate for that! Since it is so high, you don't need to drain any water to pull it . The filling instructions say to initially fill the expansion tank up to the metal barrier that you can see inside the tank. The height of this water will fill the engine and if your pump vent is functioning properly it should quickly start to circulate. One more thing, the radiator cap and the thermotat a candidates for replacement if more than 5 years old. Jim in Phoenix jfreezn, Only green coolant was used and my cooling system was maintained pretty well. As you see the pipes are very thin and I removed the rusted part just with two fingers... I hope there was some coolant in water pump since adding abou a pint into the vertical pipe from the "t" end solved the problem immediately. Thanks for the reply. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 <<Only green coolant was used and my cooling system was maintained pretty well. As you see the pipes are very thin and I removed the rusted part just with two fingers... I hope there was some coolant in water pump since adding abou a pint into the vertical pipe from the "t" end solved the problem immediately. Thanks for the reply. >> Well, something bad happened to the coolant in your engine. That kind of failure is not very common, even in the rust belt! The "green" coolant is typically too high in pH to be used in an aluminum engine. And the pH shifts higher with temperature and as the coolant ages. DEXcool is OK for about 3 years but many have had it break down and I don't know if you can even buy it anymore. I am using Zerex G-05 but the new Prestone all purpose coolant (not green) is suppposed to be all right. It has not been on the market long enough to create a good history. With the metal damage you experienced, I would seriously think about changing the radiator before a leak in a heat exchanger occurs. You don't want coolant in your transmission or your engine lube oil! Jim in Phoenix Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 DEXcool is OK for about 3 years but many have had it break down and I don't know if you can even buy it anymore. Huh??? DexCool is a 5 year coolant that was validated by GM - the corrosion inhibitor package doesn't deplete over time like silicated green coolant. Both DexCool and the Green coolant are ethylene glycol - the only difference is the corrosion inhibitor package. DexCool has not been discontinued - it is commonly available. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 <<Only green coolant was used and my cooling system was maintained pretty well. As you see the pipes are very thin and I removed the rusted part just with two fingers... I hope there was some coolant in water pump since adding abou a pint into the vertical pipe from the "t" end solved the problem immediately. Thanks for the reply. >> Well, something bad happened to the coolant in your engine. That kind of failure is not very common, even in the rust belt! The "green" coolant is typically too high in pH to be used in an aluminum engine. And the pH shifts higher with temperature and as the coolant ages. DEXcool is OK for about 3 years but many have had it break down and I don't know if you can even buy it anymore. I am using Zerex G-05 but the new Prestone all purpose coolant (not green) is suppposed to be all right. It has not been on the market long enough to create a good history. With the metal damage you experienced, I would seriously think about changing the radiator before a leak in a heat exchanger occurs. You don't want coolant in your transmission or your engine lube oil! Jim in Phoenix Jim, The pipes were absolutely clean inside. No signs of coorosion inside of the pipes whatsoever. All the deterioration appeared to be external. So, I do not think coolant has had anythig to do with the damage. I agree with you - coolant should be changed regularly so did I. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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