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Car won't start due to theft system.


northstar101

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Hey, I did that with the digital multimeter and it didn't even react. I also found an analog multimeter, and when I select the rx1k function in the ohm section it reads 5.5. I cannot find a resistor that's a close enough value but I'm pretty sure that reading is incorrect since the digital multimeter isn't reading anything. I have one more thing to ad, When I went to the dealership to test my key, the tech inserted it into this big digital box and it read 13. Does that have a significance? I put a 12 ohm resistor in but the car still didn't start. I'm now starting to think that I may have bought the wrong type of resistors or something. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Phil

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By the way, if the reading is in k ohms, How do I set the multimeter to read it as kohms and how do I find a resistor of that value. Are they readily available at radio shack?

Most digital meters are auto-ranging but it may be possible that yours is not. See if you can set the range to say 10K-ohms and try again.

Assuming 5500 (5.5K) from the analog meter is the correct reading, you could connect a 2200 and a 3300 ohm resistor in series (solder one lead of the 2200 ohm resistor to one lead of the 3300 ohm resistor. Then solder the opposite lead of each resistor to the respective wires in the lock circuit. Be sure to insulate the exposed leads with sleeving or electrical tape.

Both 2200 and 3300 ohms are standard values and might be available at Radio Shack.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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ok, I put the 5.5(2200+3300) resistors in and still nothing. I'm going to try and get a 13ohm and 13 kohm resistor tomorrow and see if it'll work. I'm starting to get pissed at this whole situation since I really need a car. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything correct again. I cut the 2 white wires in half that were both in the orange sleeve. I made sure there was constant power and there was. I then connected a resistor in between the 2 white wires(Positive+negative) and left the other 2 wires that are coming from the ignition. I don't think that those wires require a resistor since they now don't have power anyways(since I cut them in half). Do I still need to reconnect those wires back together or do I just leave them since the resistor is accounting for them. Sorry for all the stupid questions but I'm only 17 and this is all new to me.

Thanks, Phil

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NORTHSTAR, if you are unable to get it started with the resistor fix. try this, take your key down to the gm dealer have him tell you which lock you need . purchase lock, follow previous instructions listed for taking to a locksmith and getting it rekeyed to your key. NOW , the two white wires youcut , just below the block on the steering column, that they pluged into disconnect them from the block, and plug the new wires from the the new lock into the block where the old wires were plugged in , DO NOT INSTALL LOCK , since you do not think you can do this, while at locksmith , have him cut you a REGULAR , KEY no resistor in it that will turn lock. Take new lock and duct tape it whereever you want , that you can get to easily, when you want to start car put resistor key in new lock turn to start position, take non resistor key put in lock on column and turn to start position. SHEZAM, CAR WILL START. When car starts , turn both back to run position and go on your way. For every one that reads this, this is the emergency way to get car back home where you can instll it in your own garage. You , probably can skip the locksmith , if you go ahead and get two new resistor keys from dealer, since you are going to be installing it in the column anyway. Because the wire does not give you any warning WHEN it is going to break just out of the lock head , this is not a IF it breaks problem, it is only a matter ot time before it breaks. If it breaks in the parking lot of the Holliday INN , four states away from home while you are on vacation, this is the cheapest and quickest way to solve problem , all you have to remove are the trim panels and disconnect two wires and reconnect two wires and you are on your way again. THis tells the computer what it wants to know , and you look like a hero to MOM and THE KIDS. GOOD LUCK.

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The resistance measurement must not have been correct - at this point, I would not keep buying resistors as you'll wind up with a whole cabinet full of them and the car still won't start...

Post back the resistance ranges from your digital meter - I'll attempt to assist as I find time - either at lunchtime today or this evening.

franey's idea will work but if you're going to spend $60 for a new lock cylinder and then another $10 to have it rekeyed, you might as well just install the new lock cylinder and be done with it.

When I encountered this problem last year on my Fleetwood, I replaced the cylinder and had the new one rekeyed to my exusting keys. I also used the plug and old harness to make a cheater-cord with resistors. I keep it hidden and if I ever receive the PASS KEY FAULT message again, I can drop the hush panel, unplug the ignition lock harness, plug in the cheater cord and be back in business.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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If you are having problems coming up with the right resister valvue combo, buy a potentiometer, this will allow you dial in the value you need and have adjustment if you are slightly off.

Say if you resister value is 5.5kohms, then you buy a potentometer that has a range of 3 to 10kohms or what is availble that covers your needed value.

if you measured 5.5k ohms or 5500,

then that is your problem, gm did not make a vats value in that range.

Here is a link to a pdf file on gm vats values and some good info

http://asttraining.com/Files/vats1.pdf

the ranges are

407, 523, 681, 987, 1130(1.3k), 1470(1.4k), 1870(1.8k), 2370(2.3k),

3010(3.0k), 3740(3.7k), 4750(4.7k), 6040(6.0k), 7500(7.5k), 9530(9.5k),

11800(11.8k)

These are all good for +-5%, say for the 407 omh value that range would be 386-438ohms

when I did mine my vats was 4750 or 4.7kohms, I just pulled the hush panel followed the wires out of the steering column. found the 2 thin wires, in my case they were orange, cut them off leaving plenty of room on the bulkhead end, solder my resister bridge in and away I went, til I got around to replacing the ignition lock switch.

John

John

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I don't think 7,500 ohms is a standard value. You might have to connect several resistors together to get as close as possible to 7,500 ohms.

Or, you could use a 10K ohm potentiometer and set it to give you the 7.5K ohms that you need.

Good luck with it.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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GUYS......Is it possible to just replace the "chipped" ignition switch

with a regular one from another GM model?

What about calling a locksmith to change out the ignition switch

where the car is stranded. Its gotta be cheaper than the dealer?

A few years back my GTOs switch failed and the locksmith changed

it out ( took off steering wheel) and reassembled it in less than

45 minutes...........

Price total $125 bucks........................

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Hey Adallak, I think that you are the only person that can help me out on this one. I really want to accomplish this this by the end of tonight. I can't seem to get a value off my key. What's the secret to measuring the resistor?

northstar101,

Sorry I am late to the developments... was out of town all the day. Glad other members helped you out and you finally accomplisged the task! Is not this site great?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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