95SLS Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Ok folks! In my quest to spend 3 times as much on my car as it's actually worth! We move on from, Front end align, Radiator, condensor, Trans cooler, Socks, Struts, end links, Dog Bones, Brakes, and calipers to! ..... Maybe Hubs and CV joints? I get a grrrrrrr noise on the highway when you turn slightly to the left, noise comes from the left side only. Read the Searchables, But confused. Does the Hub assembly include the CV joints? And just how does that lower ball joint come off? Looks like pressed on to me. Plus The bolts that hold the hub on are some wierd torx size, like between a 50 and a 60. That's all the further I got and I put it back together. Again, Cadillac dealer is so far out of price range, I'd have to junk it. At least $1000 they said. So what's next and how much is THIS going to cost! I think I'm going to park this car and just go buy a new one. Cool car but sucked like $3000 out of me in last month. Depressing! Mike C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 No the hub assembly does not include the CV Joints, here is a photo of my new hub assembly. The 33MM bolt that you see in the center of the hub is holding the axle. When the bolt is removed along with the 3 hub bolts the hub will slide off the axle. See manual. The lower ball joint is held in place by 3 hardened rivets that you must drill out. The directions and drill bit size are in the manual. I find it easier to remove the lower control arm and put the assembly on the bench in a vice to drill out the rivets. What is going to cost $1000 the hubs? The hub was $145, from gmotors, and I bought a MOOG ball joint for $75, done! The growl noise you get on the highway is the same as I was getting, when I replaced the ball joint and got a wheel alignment that took away 70% of it, replacing the hub got rid of the rest of the growl... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Yea that looks like the bear! Caddy dealer said they have to replace the whole unit, I asked about how much and they said $1000. I freaked! The car has 150K on it so I want to do whatever it needs, As you can read, I have had this area appart several times in last weeks. It's killing me! And am I going to need another $96 FE alignment? $75 seems a little steep for a lower ball joint eh? $12 bucks on my chevy! Thanks for the picture and the reply. I guess I have top buy a puller and a torx 55. And another day off work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 It's not that bad of a job. I did one on my '92 Deville in :45 min. and it was without expirience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 95SLS, BTW, if the noise is louder when you turn left it is most likely your right hub acting up. If it is louder when you turn right chances are it is the left one. Do not trust your observation concerning the side the actual noise is coming from. In most cases it is confusing. The "S" test is more accurate. I had that noise more noticeable when turning right and was sure I heard it from the right side. WRONG! It was left hub. Good luck. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 Yea that looks like the bear! Caddy dealer said they have to replace the whole unit, I asked about how much and they said $1000. I freaked! The car has 150K on it so I want to do whatever it needs, As you can read, I have had this area appart several times in last weeks. It's killing me! And am I going to need another $96 FE alignment? $75 seems a little steep for a lower ball joint eh? $12 bucks on my chevy! Thanks for the picture and the reply. I guess I have top buy a puller and a torx 55. And another day off work! Its not a bear. You don't really need a puller either, as there is NOTHING to pull, if anything you might need a slide hammer, sometimes the hub is hard to pull out of the knuckle, but a puller is not the answer you don't want to push off against the axle and possibly damage the CV joints. Use a brass rod to break splined axle loose from the hub. Be careful NOT to over extend the inner CV joint, see this thread, I am BodybyFisher on that site http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50914 Yes $75 is a lot, I got mine at a local non-chain shop so you may do better at say a NAPA. They had a cheap china part for $50 which I passed up, as I like MOOG. This job is no more difficult than the work you have been doing, remove the lower control arm put it in a vice drill out the three rivets, ACCURATELY with a good quality drill, use oil in the drilling process, and bit and you will be fine. I bought a new 7/16" bit for the task. While you are at it, you can replace the strut rod bushings (about $25). A single TORX socket driver shouldn't set you back too much but here is an interesting set http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...552&R=200310552 Don't compare parts for a Chevy to the Caddy its apples and oranges, always has been, I know people that get GM part numbers and then go and buy the part at Chevy as its cheaper.. $1,000 is a BIG ripoff they should be ashamed... You may need an alignment if your ball joint was squatting badly but just the front, I would see how it rides first. Here is a pic of the ball joint, the joint and the hub are heavy parts..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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