95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Ok, I read the factory manual, all 3 pages of a search and almost every post in them pertaining to: Getting the bottom of the link off the stabilizer bar, FOR 3 HOURS I tried tapping, beating, a flame thrower, clamps, grips, pullers, torx, prying, and all I have. I have about uined the CV boots, and the wheel sensor wire, and maybe whatever that is that the hammer hits on the back draw, (Brake line) Whatever, I might have a few grand in this $15 repair job, (just to see) if my rattle I posted about earlier is the stabilizer bar links. There is a little play. MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Oh Great! Why would the air bags deploy when I was banging on the stabilizer links? MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Welp, I am SURE I need a new one now! Air chissel didn't work either. I figure I drove like 1200 miles in 30 hours In a Truck, Then worked on this. Time to go to bed, if no hints by get ready time, I'll just remove the whole bar, and take it to a machine shop. There goes all my fancy exhaust welding! Looks like the factory bar, no grease fittings 150 K it might be fused in there. Anyone ever use anti seize? MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 ... Anyone ever use anti seize? MC MC, Like Never Sieze? Yes, I use it all the time! Did you really deploy the airbags? (You should unhook the battery before doing front end work.) I would think you could cut through the link with a 4" or even 9" grinder... Don't get too carried away with the torch, but what about cutting the links out with the torch? Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 This is a shame. I have never had problems getting the links off, but this is not the first time I have heard of someone having problems getting them off.. See SAL in this thread, he also had problems: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...21&hl=torx&st=0 MC you even gave some advice in that thread: "Man, I would stay the course! Replace everything! AKA as "Throw Parts at the car!" At least this way ..... after a while, the rattle goes away and you car is that much newer! Always a safe bet! It's fun replacing parts anyhow! You can upgrade in the process! I do this all the time!" I have a tendency to not necessarily parts replace, but I tend to rebuilt each corner of the suspension as the mileage gets up there. I have found that since I bought 14, 18 and 24 inch breaker bars I no longer have problems with bolts and nuts. The bolt you are working on faces inward I believe, so it is more difficult to get at. If I recall this is an awkward position to really apply some force. Hopefully you didn't do to much peripheral damage. This photo was for something else so ignore the circles, but is this what you have? I wouldn't use anti-cease on suspension parts. Good Luck there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I had a real tough time here as well! I just did this job on my 93 Seville. First hit the nuts with 'PB Blast' the night before this product is amazing it's way better that WD-40. The studs on the end-links have Torx fittings in the center to help hold the stud while you remove the nut but if they are as bad as you say the torx won't be enough like was my case. I took a really good pair of Vise-Grips and clamped down real hard on the back side of the stud (the part near the ball just before the ball, so between the ball end and the stabilizer bar) you will destroy the rubber seal here but who cares since you are now commited to replace the end-links anyway. Now take a closed end wrench to the nut and put a bar - or another wrench locked into the first wrench to give you leverage and try to losen. I had a *smurf* of a time with these as well. If all fails you could just use a cutoff wheel like is done often for exhaust parts. Also have you tried a little heat from a plumbers torch? One last thing, have you got the stud lose at all? like does it even spin but you can't get the nut off or is it really not moving at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Scotty always comes up with the good pictures. I wonder how you do that? Yea, I had no trouble getting my nuts off, I'm trying to get the stud out of the hole! And Scotty is right, I am working on the backside! Most of what I said was for laughs last night, I was real tierd and anxious to get my economy car back out of the highway. No air bag deploy but I was working with batt hooked up. Then thought about it and posted that comment after I disconnected it. LOL It's been being worked on for like 2 months now (Waitning on Shocks and struts, that I replaced TWO times, one Boston one Arnott) I did do the gallon of PB blaster, I tried to hunt down a special tool for this with no luck. I did get something, about to try it out. Maybe the PB worked on it overnight. I have all the nuts off just trying to get the stud out of the hole. We need a Tips and tricks section uh? Like that dog bone on the pass side last night, that has a trick to it, If ya know it easy, otherwise, you just might break something. (Ya back the bolt out a ways and tap it back to seat the thread part past the flange.) MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Your Bar and Link is either diffrent than mine or Really Rusty. I had hard time removing the nuts but once the nuts where out the bottom stud fell out of the bar and the top stud fell out of the strut. Could it be that your end link studs are cone shaped? Do you have a ball joint removal fork? if so try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnydone Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 take off the stabilizer bar and take it to a machine shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdictas Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 95SLS, I had a similar problem on my 96 STS. I couldn't get the link out of the stablizer bar. I finally used a "blue tip wrench" (map gas and oxygen torch, about a $40 purchase), and a hammer, which helped break it free. Stick with it, you'll need to get the stablizer bar hot (slightly glowing red) before that puppy will break free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I don't want to have to do that again! But I have TWO Cadillacs, So I DO HAVE to DO THAT AGAIN! I finally got it, both sides it was the bottom one that was stuck. I got it with an 8lb persuader backing up a tie rod end removal tool. It looks too big but if you hammer enough, (From behind the wheel fwd) it will work, both mine came loose on a pry after a hammer. Tension must be totaly = for anyone trying to do this refering to these notes, Undo the top first is your best bet. PB blaster is a must. Heat did no good. I ordered my parts at Rockauto. $30 VS Dealer $75 Name brand hot rod stuff came Much more heavy that Factory, BUT it did not have the torx insert to hold the bolt (Like a shock tower has) while you crank it tight. I complained. I installed them by 1st putting a pair of USA made needdle nose vise grips on the knuckle, then the boot, then put it through the hole then tightened it with a 3/8in air ratchet. It worked. It took almost as long to install as it did to remove and Rockauto said that would call Factory and get install tips but I am still waiting. Even so the price was so good and the parts are so nice, it is worth the extra hassle. Just better have needle nose vise grips with rubber wraped around the nose. The thing I DO like about the Links, was that they have grease fittings on both the top and bottom ends for service, (Top one goes to rear) in my eyes a great improvement over what was there. I only found one knucke that was bad, the bushings look great as they were put on a year ago, so I am going to try and see what happens then THROW more parts until I am completely satisfied! By the way I also found urathane bushings at autozone for $24 and tey also had a grease fitting on each. That's what i will install when I need them. They carry both 19 and 21 plus some other sizes. We might have to use our old caps, not sure. On to the trans cooler and radiator. MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Update, Rockauto called, What I could have done was loose the vise grips, put on a 10 X 1 MM nut and wind it all the way down. That would seat the taper into the hole, Then remove that and install the real nut. No 10 X 1 Nut included in package nor no mention in directions. So, at these gas prices, a $6.10 trip to hardware store. Bummer MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 When I did mine, I used a three jaw gear-puller, to get the lower link out. You have to cut away the rubber boot to make room for the puller jaws. I tensioned the puller then gave it a good whack with a BFH, and out it came. I did have the rubber bushings removed, which permitted the sway bar to be lowered enough to get to the link ends. rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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