Dadillac Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 I received my new struts this afternoon, and will be doing the install, tomorrow evening, or Saturday morning. Here is what it appears to be true. the strut can be removed from the car, without removing the top mount. There is no camber adjustment built into the strut. Now to the questions. If I can remove the strut, without removing the top mount, the caster adjustment will not be disturbed, is this correct? Also, the bottom mounting holes in the strut, are round, not oblong. So, it seems that there isn't a camber adjustment, is this correct? Camber is adjusted in the lower control arm? I have the FSM, but it states removing the entire strut as an assembly, and using a sophisticated spring compressor, to remove the top mount. I have the small bolt type spring compressors, and will be removing the spring tension, with the strut still attatched to the car. I can the remove the two bottom strut bolts, and the top nut. This should free the strut from the car. Then reverse the procedure, and drive off. All of my front end adjustments should be the same. Please, if anyone can confirm, or deny, anything that I have just stated, chime in. I appreciate the input. Thanks Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 Be careful with that spring compressor see this link, I met rollingthunder1994 today to lend him my ohm meter and this spring compressor issue came up. He is doing his struts this weekend and planned to use the same screw type compressor. See this link: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-62900.html Here is what bothers me: Not for use on any unusually large MacPherson Strut springs which have a coil outside diameter of over 6" or a wire diameter larger than 5/8". Also, the two bolts at the bottom of the strut are adjustible, you will need to scribe a mark there, or your alignment will be way out... The front lower control arms do not adjust the alignment it is adjusted at those two bolts. On the rear, the lower control arm adjusts the alignment... If I were you I would get a FRONT alignment once you are done, you probably won't be able to keep it close, the scribe marks are just to get you to the alignment shop. Good Luck, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 I am REALLY good, I KNEW I saw NOT to use this on certain GM cars. I have been searching all my tool sites, and found this! See this link http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=6120 Do not use on General Motors "A", "C", "J" or "X" Body cars. Not for use on any unusually large MacPherson Strut springs which have a coil outside diameter of over 6" or a wire diameter larger than 5/8". The General Motors C platform (commonly called C-Body) was a fullsize car automobile platform produced until 1996. Deville? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 Don's Seville is a K platform. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 Don's Seville is a K platform. Thanks Jim, I guess its ok to use those spring compressors then, but its probably not ok for me to use them..given that I have a C platform Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 I would not even consider not removing the struts. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 I would not even consider not removing the struts. That double negative has me confused. You would remove the struts? I don't plan on removing the springs myself, I am going to have a shop do it. I have the new springs, struts, insulators, strut mounts, and I plan on buying new dust boots, I will have a shop do it with a professional compressor for $20 per side or so...then get it aligned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 It can be tricky enough to be sure the compressor hooks have a good bite on the spring when you can work with it on the floor or the bench. In particular, the "top" of the spring. Plus, with the strut out of the car, you can easily compress the spring in an even and orderly fashion using a impact tool. Zip, zip. Paying for the alignment does not bother me. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 It can be tricky enough to be sure the compressor hooks have a good bite on the spring when you can work with it on the floor or the bench. In particular, the "top" of the spring. Plus, with the strut out of the car, you can easily compress the spring in an even and orderly fashion using a impact tool. Zip, zip. Paying for the alignment does not bother me. Oh I see what you are saying and I agree.. Much more room on the bench. Well I am replacing the strut mount, but I would want to see the strut mount also, it has to be aligned anyway, so take it out, mark the location of the three holes at the top and inspect the mount. I think an alignment is important after pulling the front struts.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Thanks for all of the replies. Here is the plan. I will remove the tire, jack up on the lower control arm, install the spring compressors, crank down on them a little, lower the lower control arm, and see how the compressor is handling the load. If all looks okay, I will unbolt everything, and swap them out. I am not seeing a need to remove the upper mount. I am still unclear on one thing though. If the strur body has round mounting holes, how is the camber set with that? Are the holes in the spindle oblonged? this would make sense. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 This is what the manual states "When servicing items listed below, use the Strut and Knuckle Scribing Procedure, in this section. By using this method you will be able to return to the original camber setting. It will be necessary to check/adjust toe." These are the items, strut mount, jounce bumper, strut shield, spring seat, spring insulator and DRive axle. The holes must be elliptical for adjustment purposes. See the scribing procedure in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Well, I am going in. Wish me luck. I will post back with the results. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Well, I am going in. Wish me luck. I will post back with the results. Don Good Luck Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awise Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I have used the auto parts store, free tool rental, spring compressors many times. I have added a personal safe guard while using them though. I take a pair of 5" or so hose clamps and use them to supplement the spring compressor on opposing sides of the spring. I do not tighten the hose clamps enough to disturb the compressor. Just tight enough to add a degree of insurance. Kind of like leaving the hydraulic jack taught against the frame even while using jack stands. You can never, ever, be too safe. Try it, it's cheap, and you have nothing to lose. Best Regards, Alan Wise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 Well the install went fairly easy. I did have to remove the entire strut assemblies, as there was just no room for the spring compressors, in the car. I finished the job at about 7:00, and took a 45 mile ride, to see how it drives. And the results put a huge smile on my face. My Seville used to have the 60-75 mph shimmy. I have changed the rear shocks, and front struts, and the shimmy is gone. Well, maybe not 100% gone, but enough to put that puppy to bed. The bolt type spring compressors worked great. The Seville is sprung very soft, so there was no fear of the spring, while compressing it. I had the coils almost touching each other, and the compressor was still pretty easy to turn. The job would have gone much faster, with a vise, and an air ratchet. But regular hand tools worked great. And, I only got one blister. So no blood was drawn. That is always a major plus, as I usually hurt myself when doing anything more than changing the oil. By doing this job myself, I saved at least $400.00. The dealer wanted $150.00 apiece for the struts, and another $300.00 for the install, which did not include an alignment. I bought the struts from www.gmpartsdirect.com, for $198.00. My labor is free, so that equates to the huge savings. Now I will see if I can get the car in for an alignment tomorrow, even though, it feels like it doesn't need one. Thanks for all of the tips. You guys are the best. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 Well done. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 They Don that is terrific! I am glad to hear that those spring compressors will do that job, I will use them myself. What kind of struts cost $198.00, passive struts? Was that for all four? I spent about $500 for the Boston struts.. Did you mark the three holes at the top? Those two bolts at the bottom, did you mark those? Good Job, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 Thats what I was thinking ! He got a heck of a deal on the four! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 My Seville is an SLS, so no high $ struts. The dealer charges $150.00 per corner. GM parts direct gets about $80.00 per corner, and then shipping and handling. The rear shocks, and front struts, cost $390.00 from them (front $198+ / rear $191+). I was going to use a generic brand, but was afraid that the ride would be too harsh. The one thing that I hate about factory struts / shocks, is I haven't meet one that lasted past 50,000 miles. Factory units offer the best ride quality, but poor longevity. Scotty, the bolt type spring compressor worked great. I bought it from Ebay, it cost about $16.50 total, and I had it in two days. It was from a place in Texas. I suggest using an air ratchet, or at least wear mechanics gloves. My fingers are very sore, and I got one blister. Using a ratchet, that was alot of turning. But it was well worth it. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadillac Posted September 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 I forgot, Scotty, I marked the top holes on the first strut I did. It turns out that the holes in the body, are only slightly larger than the bolts. So there is almost no way to throw off the caster angle there. I thought that the holes were oblonged, but they are round. The bottom holes are the same way. The holes in the struts are round, and the holes in the spindle are round. The two bottom bolts are ribbed, and get hammered in, and out, of the spindle. Do not try and turn the bolt head during removal, you will damage the spindle. Just remove the two nuts (no need to hold the bolt) and tap the bolts out. So I am at a complete loss as to how this front end is adjusted. There doesn't seem to be any slotted holes anywhere. very confusing. Don "Modern warriors saddle iron horses of chrome." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 3, 2005 Report Share Posted September 3, 2005 Folks, keep in mind that Don's car is a 1998 - 2004 Seville K platform. Be carefull translating the K suspension experience and prices to earlier than '98 Sevilles. Major suspension (and other) differences exist. Big time. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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