How to Trans service ?

[95SLS]

Ok, getting bored waiting on my Radiator to come from Rockauto.com I had to do this one on the Eldo a year ago and a new tank was $100 (They also wanted $!00 to remove and install) So I just decided to go with a new one and Junk the old one. Total end cost should be only $20 more for new!

OH! So while I am waiting it is due a trans oil change, But, the kind ya take the pan down. I recall good posts on this on the old board, with part list and how to's anyone got a copy or remember?

I kinda took a liking to the one wher ethe guy modified a 5 gallon bucket to quick load the trans with FRESH oil all the way.

What kind of oil do these Trans Like? And while I am in there I should?

Use old gasket or new? What filters can I replace from bottom?

Anything I should check for?

Any parts going to fall out with no names on them?

Tranny runs fine, I did get a speed sensor code 2 years ago on and off but none in last like 8 months, I can't tell ya what I did to cure it cause only Ripley would Believe it!

Mike C

[Oldgamer]

1. Dexron III

2. You can change 2 scavenger screens.

3. Nothing will drop from it.

4. It has drain plug inside, let them pull it off also (that is the bolt with 11 mm head). Don't forget to screw it back after.

5. Don't give them to flush it.

6. You can reuse the gasket if it's not damaged.

[95SLS]

OH! Thats why I asked! I forgot about the drain plug inside!

I figure while I have the radiator out be a good time to do the 5 gallon bucket trick! Forgoat all about that inside drain plug. The old serachable don't work. Nothing comes up on a new search or it's malfunctioning.

mike C

[95SLS]

Hummmm, Waterlootransmissions.com said 159 bucks they change everything, filters and fluid in their own special way. First they flush it using a 5 micron filter on the machine, They add 14 Qts then they drop the pan and change the filters and then put the pan back on.

I looked at the price on the filter kit and the fluid. It's almost worth it not to get fluid on the floor eh?

But does it make sense? After they drop the pan after the fill how much of that is going down the drain?

mike C

[KHE]

Never, never, never let ANYONE flush your transmission! Just pull the pan, inspect the scavenger screens, clean the pan, pull the plug to drain the side cover, button everything back up and refill with fresh Dexron 3.

[TexasAxMan]

On a '95, I'd also get the solenoid kit. Costs less than $50 and if you haven't broken a solenoid yet, you will eventually (unless the kit has already been installed). I reused my gasket, cleaned the screens with brake cleaner, changed solenoids and filled back up with Dextron III. It's pretty easy if you have good basic mechanic skills.

BTW, I also bought the updated PROM, but I still get the P039 VCC code, so I'd say that the new PROM is not worth it. I'm actually considering putting the original back in as there seems to be some engagement hesitation with the new one.

Good luck!

[95SLS]

I used to get the PO39 I am not kidding! Everyone told me it was the speed sensor? The book says it's the TCC engagement Problem (page7A5A-9) But anyhow, I got it after a long haul towing a trailer. On and off on and off re set On and off. Finally I said screw it, I need something to break. I mean it would set, shift funny and then go clear and shift fine.

After months of this I added two bottles of Lucas Transmission fix and guess what? No code in like a year. Who knows? I'm not complaining. I tried everything else, no go. That worked for me! Mabe it was a cooling problem that Lucas fixed, I don't know, but Lucas goes back in if ya know what I mean.

I'm talking 1995 here SLS.

I hear ya about never never never. I better do it myself. You know a trans shop will play all dramatic on me and stuff.

Mike C

[Oldgamer]

That P039 code about slipage, you know it. When TCC is engaged there are not supposed to be too much slipage, otherwise disks will burn out eventually, peaces of friction material will clogg the filter (not these on a bottom that you can easily replace, but internal one) and you'll finish with $2000 lighter vallet.

You got solenoids replaced and other stuff. Look what you can do now (cause you have a car with OBD I):

Enter computer mode while driving the car with wormed engine on 4 gear at around 45-50 mph. Go to the PCM data mode. When speed is constant check that symbol on a climate control which shows front window defrog. Not the word "DEFROG", but symbol (you now which looks like a window with curve arrows). If symbol is on it means TCC is applied. Then check data PD73. It will show you actual slip speed. It should be less than 100. Lower is better. I just got my transaxle of repair and I have from 0 to 4. If it constantly shows something around 100 when TCC applied I will concern.

[Bob D]

Hey buddy.. DON'T FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!

..enough said?

That's pretty good advice to change the two shift solenoids too. When they hit 100k miles, or just over time with heat, the solenoid cases are almost guarenteed to crack. The kit (GM part# 24211355, "valve kit") will end that probability with new rev 'L' bracket. After new solenoids with that bracket added, worry gone for good.

I'm waiting on mine from GMparts.com. $47.25 delivered. Problem is, I placed the order last Tues. (8/23), and it's still pending, ala "Special order". I wish they had notified me of that upfront, I might have just gone to the dealer who has it in stock for 99 bucks. I don't mind not driving the STS for a couple days, but what's beginning to look like a couple weeks is really starting to bug me!

[TexasAxMan]

95SLS, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, sorry. I might try the Lucas stuff, gotta think about it.

Oldgamer, you're starting to scare me. I thought Guru used to say that more slippage is fine, just that the factory computer settings used a pretty narrow margin to determine if a problem exists. Mine has almost 90K on it, so I thought just aging would make it slip more. I'm gonna try what you said about checking the data, I hope I understand your instructions properly. The only thing I've used the computer for is to retrieve codes and clear them.

Thanks for the info, I'll post results soon.

Again, 95SLS, sorry to hijack.

[95SLS]

I bought the car with like 104 K on it, so who knows what has been replaced eh? I'll check for cracks in the soleinoids for sure, hope they have them around here if they are cracked as i won't have time for deals, i just ordered a bunch of stuff off Rockauto.com The Dog bones, Filter kit, and stabilizer bar link kits (2) All I had to do to SCARE me into that order was call the dealer and ask for a price! I saved like over 50%.

I know I know, But Waterlootransmission.com solved some problems of mine in the past over the net, so I thought I could trust him, Until he mentioned that flush machine, I caould hear Bobynski yelling from Mi. LOL I was surprised at what he said he was going to do. And the price is way high too. I guess i get dirty.

No problem on the thread hack, anyone can step in at any time!

About the diagnostics, Yea, I used the manuel to go into the deep dark places of the whatever and it came back that I was not reading speed. They give ya a way to check that too and some numbers and all, Mine was a little out. But Like I said, been a long time. I love a car that fixes itself! LOL

I love this car so much, no matter what I'd fix it sooner or later! I suppose some day a trans will be in order. Just hope it craps close to home or in the driveway.

MC

[95SLS]

Oh Crap I forgot,

When I first got the car, way before Caddyinfo.com I took it to jiffy and had that flush deal done. The car looked like it was needing maint. I was just running through the motions. But what bothers me, and that fluid has been in there 50K miles. What brand fluid DID they use? It did look fishy to me but I liked the fact that all the fluid was changed at once. That sold me. I can't wait to get that fluid out though. And get this cooler on. Looks easy enough to install, if I can figure return line. I am threatening to startthe car with hose loose to see if no one knows !

If someone can, start their car when cold, let it sit in D a few min and what line is warmer top or bottom? My car has Radiator out.

Mike C

[KHE]

If someone can, start their car when cold, let it sit in D a few min and what line is warmer top or bottom? My car has Radiator out.

Mike C

Mike,

I have an auxillary trans. cooler on mu '96 SLS - it should be the same as yours. The cooler is connected as follows: The input to the auxilliary cooler is connected to the top radiator cooler fitting and the output of the auxilliary cooler is connected to the line that returns to the trans. (the end that was disconnected from the radiator)

Once you install your new radiator, leave the upper trans. oil cooler line disconnected and have a helper crank the engine and IMMEDIATELY shut it off once the engine starts or you will have transmission fluid everywhere. The fluid should exit from the top radiator fitting.

[KHE]

Hey buddy.. DON'T FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!

..enough said?

That's pretty good advice to change the two shift solenoids too. When they hit 100k miles, or just over time with heat, the solenoid cases are almost guarenteed to crack. The kit (GM part# 24211355, "valve kit") will end that probability with new rev 'L' bracket. After new solenoids with that bracket added, worry gone for good.

I'm waiting on mine from GMparts.com. $47.25 delivered. Problem is, I placed the order last Tues. (8/23), and it's still pending, ala "Special order". I wish they had notified me of that upfront, I might have just gone to the dealer who has it in stock for 99 bucks. I don't mind not driving the STS for a couple days, but what's beginning to look like a couple weeks is really starting to bug me!

Bob,

Did your solenoids fail or are you just installing new ones as preventive maintenance?

Do you know when GM began to install the upgraded solenoids at the factory? I'm wondering what design the solenoids are in my '96.

[Bob D]

Hey buddy.. DON'T FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!

..enough said?

That's pretty good advice to change the two shift solenoids too. When they hit 100k miles, or just over time with heat, the solenoid cases are almost guarenteed to crack. The kit (GM part# 24211355, "valve kit") will end that probability with new rev 'L' bracket. After new solenoids with that bracket added, worry gone for good.

I'm waiting on mine from GMparts.com. $47.25 delivered. Problem is, I placed the order last Tues. (8/23), and it's still pending, ala "Special order". I wish they had notified me of that upfront, I might have just gone to the dealer who has it in stock for 99 bucks. I don't mind not driving the STS for a couple days, but what's beginning to look like a couple weeks is really starting to bug me!

Bob,

Did your solenoids fail or are you just installing new ones as preventive maintenance?

Do you know when GM began to install the upgraded solenoids at the factory? I'm wondering what design the solenoids are in my '96.

Shift soleniod "A" failed, per the symptoms and the codes. I don't think the "L" bracket addition came until later models, your '96 almost cetainly doesn't have them.

[rbrantlee]

Anyone know exactly what year the upgraded solenoids were factory installed?

[95SLS]

KHE that was the info I am looking for, saved me a mess.

My cooler though, a B&M heavy duty fwd of rad mount shows mounting with both outlest up, I guess I can turn it sideways eh? Only diff is it will drain better when you take a hose off.

Got called to Drive to Portage Wi from Cleveland Ohio so I will be doing all this when I get back. I'll check back B4 I hack. LOL

Mike C

[KHE]

KHE that was the info I am looking for, saved me a mess.

My cooler though, a B&M heavy duty fwd of rad mount shows mounting with both outlest up, I guess I can turn it sideways eh? Only diff is it will drain better when you take a hose off.

Got called to Drive to Portage Wi from Cleveland Ohio so I will be doing all this when I get back. I'll check back B4 I hack. LOL

Mike C

The mounting orientation of the cooler doesn't make a difference. You do want the cooler in the return path to the trans (after it has been through the radiator).

I would recommend fabricating some mounting brackets instead of using the cheesy fasteners that they provide with the trans. cooler.