"STOP ENGINE" oil pressure message

[winterset]

Well, I am almost ready to put my car back on the road after sitting the last 10 months in the garage, and the previous 6 months before that being driven very little. Original ownner, about 95k, and in like new condition in & out, under the hood & undercarrage. I just put a new battery in, and changed the back rotors. when I used it very little those 6 months, the back brakes locked up, and smoked one day going to work. I ran it backwards, and pressed the emergency brake, and it freed them up, (before I did that, the car was hardly moving - after not using for 3 months, it didn't seem unusual giving it so much gas to move @ 30mph). Well after that, both back rotors warped On Friday night, I took it out for a spin (just on my street, as I have no plates on it, and when I pulled in the driveway, I smelled a mild oil burning smell, so I popped the hood, and checked for anything smoking. As I was under the hood, I heard a fast chime. I read the dash, and I had that "STOP ENGINE" message, and my oil light was on. I immediately shut it off. The last year, after the engine was warmed up, and I would pull off a highway, and idle at 650 RPM, the oil light would blink, and stop when car went to 700 RPM, or I give it gas again. I searched this site, and heard the oil pump was pretty much bullet proof, and the valve and screen? are too given the oil & filter is changed regularly (as it was). also, car has always had mobile 1 synthetic, and either a fram or Delco oil filter.

One other thing the last 2 years the car would also display the "check oil level" When I checked when the car is hot, it was OK, so I regularly checked the level, as I couldn't rely on the sensor.

here's my plan:

I was able to loosen the oil level sensor, as I pulled the electrical plug, the electrical contacts were saturated with clean oil.

I was only able to remove the electrical connector on the oil sending unit, and that too was wet with clean oil inside the connector.

I went the auto store & purchased a GM oil sending unit socket, and when I tool it home & tried to use it on the sensor, the front mount bracket prevented me from using it. I need to come up with another strategy. So after all this, thats my question, has anyone removed the sensor from a 1996 deville N*, and how?

Also, do you think I am on the right track. I am on my 3rd warranty ($100 deductible), unfortunately sensors not covered. SO if it is not something else, at least I don't have to have a mechanic tell me my message was from a sensor, and get hit with a bill for both sensors at $200 or something.

Dave

[CaddyChris]

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=6649

this is agood link

[Ranger]

I have not R & R'd an oil level sensor so I can't help you there but, given that the check oil level message is on and the oil level is OK, I think you are on the right track. You might waqnt ot try some Brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner on the oily connections before you replace the sensor just to be sure that is not the problem.

[jhall]

winterset,

Some clarification is needed.

The link referenced by cpetro45 is for the oil level sensor in the pan, not the pressure switch at the oil pump output.

The pressure switch is more difficult to access because the lower portion of the motor mount is very close to the switch.

You need to access the oil pressure switch from the driver's side of the engine using the sensor socket, and long extension with a universal joint. Do this with the engine cold. The exhaust manifold and water hoses add to the "fun" if they are hot.

As an alternative, you can remove the oil filter and unbolt the filter adapter from the engine by removing the two bolts. This will give you access to the pressure switch. You should replace the two o-rings on the filter adapter if you go this route to avoid any possible leaks.

Good luck!

[CaddyChris]

my bad about that link...thanks for the clarification...I was half asleep this morning.

Chris