QbanCgar Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 hello my fellow caddy lovers. i have a '93 STS & i have been experiencing some rough riding especially on the front passenger's side. whenever i hit a bump (big or small) i'll here a rattling, banging noise, i can ride over the same bump on the driver's side, nothing. i just recently had my right axle replaced thinking this would resolve the problem but it i'm still hearing it. just wanted 2 know if any1 else has experienced this or might know what it might b b4 i take it 2 a mechanic. thanks 4 any advice. Qban Pimpin' In My Black 'Lac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Qban, It seems a bit "unusual" to relace an axle for a rattle (at least at first). Did the person that replaced the axle assembly - inspect the strut assembly? Does the car make noise by pushing down on the passenger front corner? Have the other suspension and steering assemblies been inspected (stabilizers, bushings, etc) Good Luck Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjayzway Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Have the other suspension and steering assemblies been inspected (stabilizers, bushings, etc) TDK has good input here! I would start with checking the system before just replacing everything. Big Jay Life is too short to grow up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Man, I would stay the course! Replace everything! AKA as "Throw Parts at the car!" At least this way ..... after a while, the rattle goes away and you car is that much newer! Always a safe bet! It's fun replacing parts anyhow! You can upgrade in the process! I do this all the time! I put in a sound track of the old Johnny Cash song "One Piece at a time" and when it gets to the part about different years, I whip out my Repair receipts and start reading off the dates! "It's a Nov. 2003 a December 2003 a Feb 2005, a April 2006, da da da daaaa I replaced almost everything on this car One Piece at a Time! da da da da daaaaa. But if you are too low on cash, just take it in for a alignment and let them tell you what it needs, go home fix it, come back and get the alignment. A bad axle has in the past been the cause, as well as Strut Bearings, and stabilizer bar bushings, The latter being the least expensive and most often the cause. but like I said, let someone test it out if you don't know how, just play stupid, say things like "Oh my Gosh really?" And "Oh! I didn't know that!" "Really?" And your repair shop will think they are Hero's and that's why they got into the business anyways. MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QbanCgar Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Thanks 4 the input, i checked out the boston suspension website & i was thinking about getting either the luxary or regular 4-wheel suspension kits as my rear end fish tails a bit when i hit a bump. i'm also getting the "service ride control" message & per boston suspension the kit will eliminate the problem as well as remove the message. has any1 gone this route? Pimpin' In My Black 'Lac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 QbanCgar, I have had the Boston #8 kit installed on the front with no problems. Be sure to have the "strut mounts" checked and replaced if required. As I recall, 95SLS may prefer Arnott (to put it mildly). Both Boston and Arnott are on the web and I believe many members have have good experience with either company (and some have had less than a good experiance...). Other members have chosen GM's other passive struts that fit (but be careful here with getting the right number and all) And then of course, other members had used the original active struts by GM that tend to be rather expensive (they include a computer controlled internal damping valve). Your call ! Getting back to the car's noises and all, don't forget to have the front and rear suspension assemblies checked. It could be as simple as struts, but I don't think worn struts make that much noise by themselves. There are a number of fairly important parts under there that need some attention now and then. Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I would replace the stabilizer bar bushings first. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96DeVille Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I had the same problem roughly 2 months ago. I brought it to the caddy dealer and they replaced the stabilizer bar bushings. The noise sounded as if a shock was knocking against the wheelwell, only on the passenger side as you described. They fixed the sound, but it turned out later that my strut is leaking on the passenger and needs to be replaced, causing a rough ride over bumps (mostly potholes in Chicago). ADT Security Services, Inc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QbanCgar Posted July 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 thanks every1 4 the info. i did what u said TDK leaned on the passenger's side & no noise. i will take it 2 my mechanic & have him take a look @ it, but i know 4 sure i will need 2 have my suspension replaced, OUCH! & from what i hear it's a costly repair. i was thinking w/ either going w/ the boston luxary ride, but i may defer 2 the #7. the next thing i need 2 have done is get new for lights. was driving about 3 months ago & BAM, hit a daym racoon that was crossing the street! F'r knocked out my driver's side fog light! Pimpin' In My Black 'Lac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton1 Posted July 27, 2005 Report Share Posted July 27, 2005 Mine did that when I first bought it. The front stabilizer bar was missing the bolts that hold it in place on the drivers side. Put bolts in and the noise ceased. The ride improved as well - Good luck Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QbanCgar Posted July 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2005 thanks steve, i will check 4 that this weekend, i swear when i hit a bump it sounds like some1 shot a 9mm LOL Pimpin' In My Black 'Lac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted July 28, 2005 Report Share Posted July 28, 2005 Bump induced noise sounding like metal on metal is usually the stabilizer bar bushings, they are cheap and easy to install. While you are replacing them, check the stabilizer links for looseness and replace as necessary... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 I too have a 93 Seville 4.9L with knock in Passenger side suspension when I ride over bumps. It has been getting worse. The strange thing is the knock does not happen if you ride over same bump while turning to the right. I see the notes about checking Suspension 'stabilizer bar bushings' what/where is this? Is this the bar that goes from right side to left side? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 Make sure the stabilizer bar link does not have any play there it is attached to the strut. Mine had some 1/16" play and it made such a noise. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 Front end, see #1 (bushing), #2 (bar) and #3 (link), check BUSHING AND LINK carefully. This may not be identical to your front end but will give you and idea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 OK, thanks for clearing up my confusion about what the stabilizer bar is. I have inspected my bushings and links and they look tight but I would like to rule this stabilizer bar OUT as the source of my knock so here is my plan: I am going to remove the short links on the right and left side in order to disconect the bar from the suspension and then take the car for a short test ride. If the knocks stop I have the source of my problem - or - if they continue I know it's not the stabilizer bar or it's components. I do not just replace parts! I just don't have that much $$$$. Plus I enjoy the satisfaction of figuring these things out. Please advice if you think this is a good or bad approach to figuring this out. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 That is actually a good idea. What happens is that the bushings wear and allow a metal stop/ridge on the bar to contact the frame, you really can't see the wear until you take the bushings out, the wear is typically on the inside where the stop/ridge is..so its hard to see... If you need to replace them check out POLY bushings you will improve your cornering: http://www.energysuspension.com/index.html Autozone carries energy suspension parts Don't forget that you have stabilizer bar bushings in the rear also, I just replaced mine and they were quite worn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 17, 2005 Report Share Posted August 17, 2005 My 93 Seville had very loud knock in the front suspension and as the board mentions here I suspected my front Sway/Stabalizer bar to be the cause. I removed the left and right drop links from the car (this disconnects the sway bar completely from the suspension) I then took for a drive and now I have NO MORE knock! turns out the drop links are worn, about 1/16th" play in them, does not sound like much but what a KNOCK when going over bumps. I will now replace the 2 drop links and the 2 sway bar to body bushings as well. One other thing if you are trying to diagnose the sway bar as the source of noise/knock: I noticed that it only knocked when driving straight and did not really knock when cornering over bumps. This now makes perfect sence since when cornering the bar has a termendous amout of load on it and this picks up any loose component slack which stops the noise. When driving straight the sway bar and components (drop links) are just hanging lose from the struts and when you hit a bump the lose components will knock. I suggest this as the first approach to diagnose this kind of knock/noise. You can then proceed by removing the drop links if you wish but this turned out to be much more difficult than I first thought because the nuts on the links where very rustty! This means you will most likely damage the drop links when removing them (Like I did) but it turned out I needed new ones anyway. So, if you suspect knocking from your sway bar start by doing the cornering test if the knocking stops while cornering, visually and hand inspect for lose drop links if you notice any play in the ball joints of links replace them. Once you have them out take the car for a spin without the links to insure this is your problem. If however you look at the links and they seem OK try just replacing the Sway Bar to Body bushings since these are only about $20.00 a pair. The drop links are about $40.00 each. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 17, 2005 Report Share Posted August 17, 2005 I always hit suspension bolts and nuts with a quality penetrant before I start trying to remove them. Did your links have a T socket in the middle of the stud? I am surprised you had such a difficult time, too bad. It sounds like you found your problem however, terrific. And yes you are correct, on turns the bushings are pressured from torsion and probably would stop hammering.. Let us know how this turns out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 17, 2005 Report Share Posted August 17, 2005 Yep, it's amasing how much noise a 1/16" play in links (worn or just loose) can make! The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Scotty, I hit all the bolts with 'PB Blast' the night before. The studs had no T-Socket the only way to hold them was with small Vice-Grip from the back side, that of course damaged the rubber boot on the small ball joint. One other thing: Some posts mentioned obtaining the Bar to Body bushings from Energy Suspension but for this 93 Seville they do not offer them since these front bushings are not the standard D type bushing they are tucket into a strange part of the front body frame and the clamp that holds the bushings is not exactly a C clamp it's more like a C clamp that has one of the bolts up higher than the other side the bolt to the front of the car is about 3/4" higher mounting place than the bolt to the back of the car. Not sure if I explained this well. So, I ordered new bushings from NAPA not sure what they will give me but I hope they are correct. I also found the End-Links on E-Bay for $40.00 a pair including the shipping what a deal (Ebay item #7977682412). Hopefully finish this up next week once I get the End Links. Thanks for your help Scotty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Oh that is the reason you had a hard time removing them, no t-socket, I recall that they were hard to come off and the t-socket was definately necessary. No wonder you damaged them you didn't use the right method to remove them. I have removed mine many times with no problems... Using a t-socket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Scotty, What do you mean T-Socket? I would like to learn the correct procedure. Even if I had the right tool (most likely I don't) I did not see any place on the stud to attach a tool, what exactly is this T-Socket? and what side does it attach to? When I think of a T-Socket I think of a T-type Allen Wrench or something like that. I have plenty of T Allen Wrenches. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Take a look at the old links, is there a star that you can put a TORX driver into to hold the stud from turning? My 91 had this, your 93 HAS to have it, otherwise the entire stud TURNS while you try to loosen it, as you found out. If you have this TORX, it will help you install the new ones...sorry about the confusion, I know what I meant to say, just didn't say it right see the tool here http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sal.carceller@cox.net Posted August 18, 2005 Report Share Posted August 18, 2005 Scotty, I just looked at the end-links I took out and you are right they have the torx slot in the stud! I did this the hard way! I even have those Torx sockets! I guess my eyes are not very good, I will not make that mistake again! Thanks for pointing this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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