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B1313


Ranger

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I have been getting the B1313 code lately as history. I suspect that is only because when I have checked it the A/C was off. I'll check it tomorrow with the A/C on. My guess is it will be current. I suspect that is telling me that the sensor is shot. I seem to recall someone going though this recently, maybe "Scotty". The question is do I have to open the system to replace it or is there a valve beneath it so I can replace it without venting. I don't have a vacuum pump and would have to have the system serviced for me and that would go against my grain.

P.S.

A/C works just fine. I seem to recall that the high side sensor controls the fans and last I checked ( a few days ago), they were working.

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The question is do I have to open the system to replace it or is there a valve beneath it so I can replace it without venting. I don't have a vacuum pump and would have to have the system serviced for me and that would go against my grain.

P.S.

A/C works just fine. I seem to recall that the high side sensor controls the fans and last I checked ( a few days ago), they were working.

Yep, STEP #1 in the FSM is "Recover refrigerant . . . . "

The fans are ALWAYS ON with the A/C engaged. No?

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I don't have a vacuum pump and . . . .

Actually a vacuum pump can be had for just about free. Find a refrigerator or A/C that someone is discarding and steal the compressor out of it. Many A/C repair shops would be happy to give you one gratis.

Braze a refrigerant fitting onto the suction port of the compressor and just leave the exhaust port open to the atmosphere. Add a 110 volt ac cord to the compressor and Voila! You got vacuum pump. ;)

Regards,

Warren

P.S. Of course, the unit you steal the compressor out of should have a fault other than the compressor itself. :P

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Larry,

The problem could be in the wiring to the sensor and not the sensor itself - it would be worth checking out.

As long as the code is history, I probably wouldn't worry too much about it until it became "current". If the sensor is bad, the refrigerant will need to be recovered as there is not a schrader valve under the sensor like the pressure sensor.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yes my low temp sensor "shorted" out because I put the orifice tube in backwards and they physically interfered with eachother. As mentioned above, it was necessary to recover the refrig, replace the sensor and recharge. It was a 30 min process at my local AC shop, and since they did not put any refrigerant in, they just charged me a small amount. The high side thermister is #3 on the 96...so its easy to get at, its probably the same on the 97 (ignore the red circle this diagram was for something else)

post-3-1120829616_thumb.jpg

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Thanks guys. I actually answered my own question with a little morning reading over a cup of coffee.

Warren,

Thanks for the vacuum pump idea. I will definately look into that. Does it pull enough vacuum? Yes, the fans are working but in reading the manual, it states that if B1313 is set the PCM (in it's infinate knowledge) will set a default temp of 144f I believe, to keep the system running.

Kevin,

I pulled the connector this morning and "tried" to clean the contacts but they are very small pins and recessed rather deeply. About all I was able to do was spray them with brake cleaner. I'll see if that makes any difference and check the codes again when the system is in operation.

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Yeah, but what bothers me is that if it is hirtorical, it had to be current at some point during the trip. It appears to be intermittent. At least it is not critical and urgent. I can take my time on it.

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Larry:

I would be tempted to take the connector off the sensor and run it. If the code changes to B1312 current, you will have eliminated the connector and wire harness leaving you with a suspect sensor. No??

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Did you read this:

On some vehicles this code may be set intermittantly if sensor temp falls below 30 degrees F. The DTC will become history after the sensor temp increases...

If an intermittant 1313 is being set use a TECH 1, select ACM Data list, Open/Shorts Data and note reading.

Interesting.... AGAIN I see the need for a TECH 1 or 2, why don't we consider buying one as a group, what do you guys think? Is there a way of reading the temp at this sensor without a Tech 1?

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Larry:

I would be tempted to take the connector off the sensor and run it.  If the code changes to B1312 current, you will have eliminated the connector and wire harness leaving you with a suspect sensor. No??

True Jim that is how I eliminated the wiring with my shorted 1315 code, but since Rangers is intermittant, doing the same would provide an open but we still wouldn't know if its the wiring or sensor because its intermittant, am I making sense?

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Scotty,

Yeah Mike, I read that. Unfortunately, no Tech II. Can't justify the cost.

JimD,

I'm not sure that would be conclusive unless I am missing something with my very limited electrical knowledge but I would think that unplugging the sensor would surely eliminate the B1313 and set a B1312, no?

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Larry:

I would be tempted to take the connector off the sensor and run it.  If the code changes to B1312 current, you will have eliminated the connector and wire harness leaving you with a suspect sensor. No??

True Jim that is how I eliminated the wiring with my shorted 1315 code, but since Rangers is intermittant, doing the same would provide an open but we still wouldn't know if its the wiring or sensor because its intermittant, am I making sense?

Mike:

Here is my logic. There are several events that can trigger Ranger's "short" DTC.

A: There is a pinched or faulty insulation section of wire in the chassis cabling that requires vibration (from driving the car on Chicagoland roads) to momentarily create the condition that sets the code. If you disconnect the sensor and still get a "short" code, plus an "open" code, the cause has to be chassis wiring.

B: The sensor really has failed.

C: The high side temperature did get to 30 degrees (is this likely in July?).

Larry is hoping for A. There are probably more events but this is where we are.

Edit: Read A: again!! And clear all codes before starting a new test sequence.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I see. I wonder if the system will run with an OPEN 1312 and then set the 1313 shorted if a wire grounds out.

Larry, have you put guages on your system and check pressure? Can high pressures cause the temp to drop below 30 degrees, say if the system were overcharged? Are you running the system in RECIRC/60 degree possibly? If the orifice tube were clogging what are the symptoms at the high temp sensor?

I kind of doubt that a sensor itself would go intermittant like this, Jim seems to have the right idea if its not the 30 degree issue setting the code. I suppose that a problem with the ACM could cause this?

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Yeah, ACM is one of the possibilities per the manual but they are pretty relaible so that is the last thing I suspect.

I run it in AUTO so it goes to RECIRC only on startup when commanded by the ACM.

I had guages on it in spring and topped it off. It blows nice and cold. Operates perfectly as far as I can tell.

I'll have a closer look at the wiring but it seemed to be ok at a quick glance. I'll also give JimD's idea a try.

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....

JimD,

....unless I am missing something with my very limited electrical knowledge....

One day, an understanding of electrical/electronic theory and application will be higher on your priority list. The hydrogen fuel cell being hyped as the 'energy source of the future' by the EPA, and the press, produces (converts to) electricity.

If this fuel cell technology can be worked out (given ALL the variables), and IF the driving public buys into the electric vehicle, seven liter Corvettes will be museum pieces. The supply of economically retrievable fossil fuel is finite.

None of which has anything to do with your current A/C problem.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Ok, I pulled the connector this morning and of coarse got a B1312 (open circuit) but the manual says to connect a Tech II and if the code goes from B1313 to B1312 then the sensor is bad. I of coarse observed these codes with the onboard diagnostics. I suspect they mean from a "current" B1313 not history because if you remove the connector I would think B1312 is imminent. I did read, as Mike pointed out, that intermittents can be cause by high side line temps dropping below 30f degress. I am leaning towards that scenario. The question now is what would cause that?

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The sensor is a simple thermister as I understand it. Don't know much about them. As I have said my knowledge of electricity and electrical components is limited but I wouldn't think that is possible.

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