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AC Delco Battery


Scotty

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I had to take the positive terminal off my 98 gmc battery some time ago because of a leak at the terminal and I had to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar it was so tight. Of course it broke coming off. I suspected the factory tightened it to much which cracked the case causing it to leak. Mike

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Britt your suggestion made me take a look to see what is available in terms of splicing portions of new cable, check this out, it looks like I can get away from that lead lugs with this system, I would need to buy a crimper:

http://www.quickcable.com/7.html

http://www.quickcable.com/index.html

Mike

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Mike,

Buying a replacement premade side terminal cable, cutting the bad end off of your present starter cable & splicing the new cable end on is one way to go. However the crimpers for that size of job are not cheap.

A substitute for the crimpers would be to use an appropriate size of copper tubing for the connector, solder and self sealing heat shrink.

If you strip about an inch and a eighth of insulation from each cable, cut a piece of copper tubing about 2 inches long, insert both cables into the tubing, (don't forget the heat shrink). Then solder the cables into the copper tubing.

To help get the solder into the tubing, I would drill two holes, in line with each other, about 1/2 inch from each end. The holes should be just a little larger than the solder that you are using. Position the copper sleeve horizontally with the small holes on top. Heat the assembly from below being careful not to burn the insulation. Feed the solder through the small holes in the tubing.

Wrapping the insulation with wet rags held in place with mechanics tie wire should help keep the insulation from burning or melting.

Pre-tinning the cable ends and the inside of the tubing will help insure a good solder joint. When done, trim away any burnt or melted insulation, slide the heat shrink into place and shrink.

Done properly, it will look like a workman like job.

Some care will have to be exercised as you will be in close proximity to the A/C plumbing & the power steering reservoir. I would remove the battery before attempting this type of repair. Hydrogen gas & flame tend to have negative consequences when brought together. Remember the Hindenburg? :blink:

Anyway, If it was me, I would just take the intake off & replace the whole cable & forget the above. :P

Or if you are friends with a commercial electrical contractor, perhaps you could borrow a pair of crimpers.

Britt

Britt
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Hmm, Thanks Britt, those are some terrific suggestions, I might just do the solder job you describe as I know the positive cable assembly is not cheap. I do believe that your idea will work perfect. I have a heat gun and a torch. the key as you noted would be to keep the ends cool. I think this is 4 gauge wire maybe I can find some 4 gauge butt connectors. Thanks

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...Or if you are friends with a commercial electrical contractor, perhaps you could borrow a pair of crimpers.

Britt

navion,

thank you for the explanation. Great detail.

(Printed that one out for the folder.)

mike,

You may want to check into renting it at a rental house/electrical supply house...

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Mike,

A non insulated butt connector soldered into place would work great, and have thicker walls than the copper tubing. I would still drill the holes for the solder and tin the inside of the connector and wire ends. You would have to adjust the amount of insulation that you stripped to account for the different length of the butt splice connector.

I always liked a properly soldered joint over a crimped one.

I have been is some remote parts of the world. When you are out in the boonies in Brazil or in the desert in Saudi, you tend to figure out ways to repair things with what you have on hand. Replacement parts in those situations are usually made out of "unobtainium". :P

I have done this type of repair on Caterpillar equipment when the battery cable clamps burnt completely off and left the cable to short to reach. I had to use a section of hose instead of heat shrink though. I also had to replace the burnt off battery post. I did that by drilling a short hole in what was left of the post, put a sheet metal screw in the hole. made a mold for the post out of copper tubing cleaned it all with acid, covered the rest of the battery with wet rags and then melted wheel weights onto the remains of the post. The darn battery was still working when I left.

Britt

Britt
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I got curious about battery quality and checked Consumer Reports - here is their list for size 78, in order of quality.

I was kinda surprised to see the Delco near the bottom of the list.

GROUP 34/78

33

Kirkland (Costco) Signature 12860 (North) CR Best Buy

$60 CCA900 Warranty36/100

34

Advance Autocraft (Advance Auto) Titanium 34/78-4

75 800 36/84

35

DieHard (Sears) SUV, Truck and Van 39890 (North)

90 875 36/100

36

Duralast (AutoZone) Gold - 34DT-DGS (South)

75 800 36/96

37

DieHard (Sears) SUV, Truck and Van 39990 (South)

90 725 36/100

38

Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-78DT

90 800 18/72

39

Duralast (AutoZone) Gold - 34DT-DGN (North)

75 900 36/96

40

ACDelco Professional 78DT-6YR

90 730 18/72

41

Exide Nascar Select 78DT-84N

80 770 24/84

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<<Britt your suggestion made me take a look to see what is available in terms of splicing portions of new cable, check this out, it looks like I can get away from that lead lugs with this system, I would need to buy a crimper:

http://www.quickcable.com/7.html>>

Scotty

Napa sells a high quality pigtail kit that is custom for each car and works quite well. The splice is made several inches from the battery and uses a setscrew so no special tools are needed. For the Caddy it will contain two cables of the appropriate size.

As an aside, I will never use a side terminal liquid acid battery again. AS far as I am concerned, they all will leak, sooner or later! Corrosion is hard to stop once it gets started.

I like OPtima or EXide sealed cell technoglogy.

Jim in Phoenix

Jim in Phoenix

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<<Britt your suggestion made me take a look to see what is available in terms of splicing portions of new cable, check this out, it looks like I can get away from that lead lugs with this system, I would need to buy a crimper:

http://www.quickcable.com/7.html>>

Scotty

Napa sells a high quality pigtail kit that is custom for each car and works quite well. The splice is made several inches from the battery and uses a setscrew so no special tools are needed. For the Caddy it will contain two cables of the appropriate size.

As an aside, I will never use a side terminal liquid acid battery again. AS far as I am concerned, they all will leak, sooner or later! Corrosion is hard to stop once it gets started.

I like OPtima or EXide sealed cell technoglogy.

Jim in Phoenix

Thanks Jim, I couldn't find one of those batteries fast enough or I would have bought one... too bad.. This is the first battery I have ever had that leaked like this maybe I have been lucky. Thanks for the tip regarding NAPA, I like that store and will look into it, Thanks, Mike

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I got curious about battery quality and checked Consumer Reports - here is their list for size 78, in order of quality.

I was kinda surprised to see the Delco near the bottom of the list. 

The amazing thing is that the Costco Kirkland Signiture battery is less than $50, I spent $93 for the Sears Gold... I was kicking myself in Costco the other day...and now that I am seeing the quality of the Costco battery I am kicking myself right now :blink::lol:

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Good post

I'm thinking of replacing the battery in my 01 due to age I'm not sure what battery I will go with I may have to stick with a Delco battery in the 01 deville the battery is under the rear seat and I'm sure I will be very limited to the size I can put into the compartment..I have had good luck with Delco batteries..

Cheers

Jim

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I got curious about battery quality and checked Consumer Reports - here is their list for size 78, in order of quality.

I was kinda surprised to see the Delco near the bottom of the list. 

The amazing thing is that the Costco Kirkland Signiture battery is less than $50, I spent $93 for the Sears Gold... I was kicking myself in Costco the other day...and now that I am seeing the quality of the Costco battery I am kicking myself right now :blink::lol:

You always find a better deal after you buy someting.... :lol:

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Good post

I'm thinking of replacing the battery in my 01 due to age I'm not sure what battery I will go with I may have to stick with a Delco battery in the 01 deville the battery is under the rear seat and I'm sure I will be very limited to the size I can put into the compartment..I have had good luck with Delco batteries..

Cheers

Jim

The original battery in my '98 lasted 6 years and 9 months or 138,000 miles. They do tend to give a warning before 'dieing-hard'.

I was not able to locate another brand replacement. ACDelco, or whoever builds those batteries, is the only one with the dimensions, CCA spec's, and overboard venting.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Good post

I'm thinking of replacing the battery in my 01 due to age I'm not sure what battery I will go with I may have to stick with a Delco battery in the 01 deville the battery is under the rear seat and I'm sure I will be very limited to the size I can put into the compartment..I have had good luck with Delco batteries..

Cheers

Jim

The original battery in my '98 lasted 6 years and 9 months or 138,000 miles. They do tend to give a warning before 'dieing-hard'.

I was not able to locate another brand replacement. ACDelco, or whoever builds those batteries, is the only one with the dimensions, CCA spec's, and overboard venting.

Jim what do you mean by overboard venting? Is your battery in the back seat? Mike

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Under the back seat cushion and vented down and out. Much better location for several reasons (as demonstrated by VW many years in the past).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Under the back seat cushion and vented down and out. Much better location for several reasons (as demonstrated by VW many years in the past).

What did VW do I never heard about it?

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Mike,

A non insulated butt connector soldered into place would work great, and have thicker walls than the copper tubing. I would still drill the holes for the solder and tin the inside of the connector and wire ends. You would have to adjust the amount of insulation that you stripped to account for the different length of the butt splice connector.

I always liked a properly soldered joint over a crimped one.

I have been is some remote parts of the world. When you are out in the boonies in Brazil or in the desert in Saudi, you tend to figure out ways to repair things with what you have on hand. Replacement parts in those situations are usually made out of "unobtainium". :P

I have done this type of repair on Caterpillar equipment when the battery cable clamps burnt completely off and left the cable to short to reach. I had to use a section of hose instead of heat shrink though. I also had to replace the burnt off battery post. I did that by drilling a short hole in what was left of the post, put a sheet metal screw in the hole. made a mold for the post out of copper tubing cleaned it all with acid, covered the rest of the battery with wet rags and then melted wheel weights onto the remains of the post. The darn battery was still working when I left.

Britt

Thanks Britt, I agree totally about solder very crimping especially in high draw situations like this. Thanks for all of your ideas, I will do something soon. Thanks, Mike

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The air cooled VW Beetles (or Bugs, or whatever name was hung on them) that hit North America in the '60s had the battery located under the back seat out of necessity. There was no space for a battery in the (hot) engine compartment!

I drove a '60s VW every day to work and college and it was just what I needed at that time. Never had a battery problem.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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The air cooled VW Beetles (or Bugs, or whatever name was hung on them) that hit North America in the '60s had the battery located under the back seat out of necessity. There was no space for a battery in the (hot) engine compartment!

I drove a '60s VW every day to work and college and it was just what I needed at that time. Never had a battery problem.

Ahh, I see. Yes I had heard that heat is a battery's biggest enemy..

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