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Good info guys. Appreciate it all. I really like the explanation on "warped" vs "VT" Makes sense. So... now that my rotors have been cleaned up, should I bed them again?

Rick

Cool, Rick let us know how this works out. Please check your rear brakes and bleed the entire system when you get a chance. A little air in the rear system will decrease their clamping force..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If you are looking for some "expert" advice, and not our interpretations and ideas, you should check out "stop tech"'s web-site. There is a very nice read about the #1 myth in brakes... warpage. It's a good read, and I am sure based on years of proven results and tests.

See post #9

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Lots of good info !

Michael -

Slightly off topic here but hope rickster takes the time to look at the wealth of information offered in this thread. My first experiance with brake vibration was on my Fathers brand new 85 DeVille. Rotors were trued twice, replaced once and trued two more times. Same problem over and over. The owner of a small repair facility at the time I cleaned up the rotors and the simple use of a torque wrench when putting the wheels on solved the problem. On that particular vehicle I feel the the braking system was a bit under par. Since the elimination of asbestos brake pads I have seen them evolve and in the early years even the best pads money could buy were nothing but problems. Which brings me to the front brakes on my 97' STS. Due to some health issues I looked into having the front pads replaced at a repair facility. $49.95 labor coupon in hand, visited a local GoodYear outlet that I had bought some Comp T/A's for my GTA. Felt they would let me watch and be sure all the little tricks I had learned over the years were followed and maybe could trust them. Total quote: cermaic pads: $240.00. OEM "style" Raybestos $310.00. Yes, I, maybe more than others realize you need to make money when in business but in my opinion I was just plan getting screwed for an hours work. Again, I look to this forum for advice and plugs, wires, AC Delco, no hesitation. Brake pads and or rotors? A feel good issue? Not my only hobby. The car stopped real good before. Went to AutoZone (many here buy parts there) spent $30.99 on their ceramics and did it myself. Result, stops even better than whatever was on there and no dust. Mileage? Unknown. I guess my point here is. Would I love fancy rotors, high dollar pads? Of course. But how often will I be traveling at a buck 30 and worry about brake fade on another repeat stop. Bottom line, like their cermaics.

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Little late here, but I've had great success with Powerstop cross-drilled rotors. Didn't buy 'em for the looks (can't see them through the SLS wheels), but for their functional benefits. These brakes have been on the car for 70,000 miles now. Pretty much unheard of for a FWD 4000+ lb. vehicle. Cooler brakes will last longer. I haven't TOUCHED these brakes in the 70k miles...not even had a rotor turned. I believe there are a few positive experiences in this group with the drilled rotors from Powerstop. They were the best 300 bucks I've ever spent on a car.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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