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whats all involved in fixing my a/c? I know I have a leak on the hose that runs at the bottom, coming from the a/c comp. and it runs along the bottom to the driver side.....That leak can be the problem or I think the compressor itself....since they told me at the shop that the compressor wasn't compressing the air. If it is the compressor what all needs to be changed or fixed? The comp. itself or the whole a/c system? or should i just fix that leak 1st and see if its that .....

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whats all involved in fixing my a/c? I know I have a leak on the hose that runs at the bottom, coming from the a/c comp. and it runs along the bottom to the driver side.....That leak can be the problem or I think the compressor itself....since they told me at the shop that the compressor wasn't compressing the air. If it is the compressor what all needs to be changed or fixed? The comp. itself or the whole a/c system? or should i just fix that leak 1st and see if its that .....

Your question is simple, the answer may not be. You definitely need to fix the leak first. The compressor has been locked off by a low pressure signal in the system. This will need to be reset at the point where the leak has been fixed and you are ready to start charging in new freon. The charge should include some oil too!

A good AC mechanic will be able to put a set of gauges on your system to determine if the compressor is still good. But it will require that the proper freon charge is in the system.

Good luck,

Jim in Phoenix

Jim in Phoenix

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What method did you use to identify the leak in the hose? If the hose/line is leaking, then get it fixed first. The line can be repaired or you can buy a new one from GM.

Most likely, enough refrigerant leaked out that the system is preventing the compressor from engaging to protect it from damage.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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What method did you use to identify the leak in the hose?

A friend of mine at the shop recharged it with the machine, and it was a few weeks later when I had changed my antifreeze,that I saw the fluorecent green dye coming from somewhere along the hose at the bottom...So how much would that hose run me? Can I get it at autozone or Orielly's? and how much is a decent price I'll expect to pay at a shop? one place I went to saide around $260 not more than $300....

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i had my system recharged last spring and almost a year to the day, i once again got the "low refrigerant" message...obviously a leak somewhere. well, this year i am looking at switching over to R134. just gotta do my research so that i know what to ask the mechanic BEFORE i let them do the work and what to look for AFTER they are done.

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What method did you use to identify the leak in the hose?

A friend of mine at the shop recharged it with the machine, and it was a few weeks later when I had changed my antifreeze,that I saw the fluorecent green dye coming from somewhere along the hose at the bottom...So how much would that hose run me? Can I get it at autozone or Orielly's? and how much is a decent price I'll expect to pay at a shop? one place I went to saide around $260 not more than $300....

You will need to buy the hose/line from GM. If the hole is in the rubber portion, you can find a hose rebuilder in your area that can install new nose on the existing line. I would guess about $30.

If the hole is in the aluminum line itself, you can have it heliarced for $15-20 at a weld shop.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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i had my system recharged last spring and almost a year to the day, i once again got the "low refrigerant" message...obviously a leak somewhere. well, this year i am looking at switching over to R134. just gotta do my research so that i know what to ask the mechanic BEFORE i let them do the work and what to look for AFTER they are done.

You need to identify and repair the leak first. Converting to R-134a won't make it leak less. If anything, it will leak more as the R-134a molecules are smaller than R-12 molecules. You will need to flush the system and replace the accumulator and that will add $150 to the total cost.

With the price of R-134a skyrocketing, you might reconsider converting to R-134a. R-134a in a 30 lb. cylinder is about $350 now and it is expected to reach $500 by the summer. I was watching a 30 lb. cylinder on ebay and it sold for $330...

R-134a is around $10 per 12 oz can these days in the discount stores.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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With the price of R-134a skyrocketing, you might reconsider converting to R-134a. R-134a in a 30 lb. cylinder is about $350 now and it is expected to reach $500 by the summer. I was watching a 30 lb. cylinder on ebay and it sold for $330...

R-134a is around $10 per 12 oz can these days in the discount stores.

A little confused by your comments on prices...........

And yes, the leak check/repair is a given.

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With the price of R-134a skyrocketing, you might reconsider converting to R-134a.  R-134a in a 30 lb. cylinder is about $350 now and it is expected to reach $500 by the summer.  I was watching a 30 lb. cylinder on ebay and it sold for $330... 

R-134a is around $10 per 12 oz can these days in the discount stores.

A little confused by your comments on prices...........

And yes, the leak check/repair is a given.

What are you confused about?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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With the price of R-134a skyrocketing, you might reconsider converting to R-134a.  R-134a in a 30 lb. cylinder is about $350 now and it is expected to reach $500 by the summer.  I was watching a 30 lb. cylinder on ebay and it sold for $330... 

R-134a is around $10 per 12 oz can these days in the discount stores.

A little confused by your comments on prices...........

And yes, the leak check/repair is a given.

What are you confused about?

in the beginning of the quote you say R-134a price is skyrocketing and i should reconsider converting. then at the end you say i can get it for $10 at the discount stores...confusing. i am in no way up to speed on this so i hate to "assume", but i think you meant R-12 is $10 a can.(?)

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With the price of R-134a skyrocketing, you might reconsider converting to R-134a.  R-134a in a 30 lb. cylinder is about $350 now and it is expected to reach $500 by the summer.  I was watching a 30 lb. cylinder on ebay and it sold for $330... 

R-134a is around $10 per 12 oz can these days in the discount stores.

A little confused by your comments on prices...........

And yes, the leak check/repair is a given.

What are you confused about?

in the beginning of the quote you say R-134a price is skyrocketing and i should reconsider converting. then at the end you say i can get it for $10 at the discount stores...confusing. i am in no way up to speed on this so i hate to "assume", but i think you meant R-12 is $10 a can.(?)

I was comparing the prices of 30 lb cylinders of R-134a and R-12 in the first paragraph.

R-134a in 12 oz cans ranges from $10-$15 in my area now. It was $4.50 per can last year.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Mistakenly posted, purposely deleted.

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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