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Headlamp cover sandblasting


JimD

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Cannot find the file I saved from previous posts. At least I think I saved the file!

Several folks had shared their success stories about removing the Interstate damage from the plastic(?) headlamp covers.

I tried rubbing compound (not polishing compound) today with disappointing results. The surface is now smoother, but not any more transparent.

Someone mentioned wet 2000 grit sandpaper? Followed by another treatment?

Someone else mentioned an aftermarket chemical product?

TNX

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Look for "Plastic lense polishing kit" and see info on how to use it on the same page. I have not used this kit but I have bought a bunch of stuff from this site and it has all been "just as described".

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I got mine crystal clear with two steps

1) 600 grit paper with lots of water and then

2) Mothers mag wheel polish...

Worked like a charm...Mine were really really pitted too..

Good luck

caddy.jpg

Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac,

I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back

ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide

Greg

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Personally I think if you used 600, 1200, 1500 & 2000 grit you would not need any polish. I recall reading in a metal working magazine that a guy tried this on a small piece of metal just to see the effect he could get. After going to 2000 grit he said the piece of metal "went optical" and he could shave with it as a mirror. I have been meaning to try it but never got around to it.

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Very cool Ranger, I am a big Meguires fan too! I just ordered it on-line, don't you love being able to do that? What did we do before the internet? :lol:

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I just ordered it on-line, don't you love being able to do that?  What did we do before the internet?  :lol:

Yes indeed, the internet is indespensible. As proof I offer the following:

"Ticket to Ryde

TALKING of travel, say you disembarked at the hoverport in Ryde on the Isle of Wight off the UK's south coast, hoping to take in the sea air at Ryde Esplanade. How do you get there?

Luckily, you have your laptop with you and can www.nationalrail.co.uk to use the "Planning your journey" option. So you enter a starting point of "Ryde Hoverport" and, as if by magic, your journey is mapped out for you: hovercraft to Southsea...bus to Portsmouth and Southsea station...train to Portsmouth Harbour...ferry to Ryde Pier Head...train to Ryde Esplanade."

Alternatively, as John Winters discovered, you could put your laptop away and walk the 100 metres to the esplanade. We'd heard that the National Rail website offered the pedestrian alternative too, but when we tried checking, the page arrived 25 minutes late. The hyper-efficient and über-logical www.bahn.de from German Federal Railways confirms, however, that the long way round works."

Source: http://www.newscientist.com/backpage.ns?id=mg18624992.500

Regards,

Warren :D:D:D

P.S. Aren't you glad you're not restricted to public transportation?

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Look for "Plastic lense polishing kit" and see info on how to use it on the same page. I have not used this kit but I have bought a bunch of stuff from this site and it has all been "just as described".

I forgot to leve the address to the site. Duh....

http://www.properautocare.com/glass---plastic.html

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The aviation industry has had to deal with Plexiglas restoration for years. There is a product called "Micromesh windshield scratch removal kit". It is available from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Company ( www.aircraftspruce.com ) under part number 09-24700 for $17.95. It comes with "cushioned abrasives" and instructions. Used properly, it will restore Plexiglas and Lexan plastics to optical quality.

The common problem with restoring optical quality to plastics is heat generated by the sanding process. Plastics are notorious for poor heat transmitting properties. Sanding too aggressively causes heat to build up on the surface of the item. This in turn tends to cause the surface to expand faster than the substrate or body of the item. If the surface is not allowed time to dissipate the heat buildup, micro cracks or crazing will develop.

Additionally, if a localized pit or scratch is worked out, with out taking the whole surface down around it, a lens will develop. In windshields, this will cause visual distortions that can cause windshields to be scrapped. In a headlight cover, a lens of this type could cause a concentration of light to be focused at a random angle. This could cause an oncoming driver to be "flashed" even with the beams on low.

I have found that the Micormesh product will give excellent results when used properly.

Britt
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  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe you can see the difference.

1000 wet, followed by 2000 wet leaves the surface cloudy (scratched). Several applications of a common old car polish fills in the scratches.

Those fog lamps are going to be a SOB.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Below are links to Aircraft Spruce & Specialty's site. The last link has all of the products for polycarbonate repair and maintenance. There are several different MicroMesh kits available. The least expensive one will do a large pressurized aircraft's windshield (as long as it is Plexiglas). Follow the instructions exactly. I usually let water run over the surface that I am working to help carry away heat and sanding debris.

Britt

Micromesh Polycarbonate Restoration Kit

[TABLE]Excellent for restoring polycarbonate such as Lexan on aircraft, boats, cars and motorcycles. Will restore up to 100 square feet of material. Kit includes one 5" disc w/loop 2400 Micromesh, one 5" disc w/loop 3600 Micromesh, one 5" random orbital or drill back-up pad, one 5" x 3/4" TufBuf lam...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/Micromesh.php

Micro-gloss Polish

Micro-gloss is an outstanding companion product to Micromesh. It removes hairline scratches, haziness, and halos untouched by other products. Microgloss contains no filters or cover-ups that cause yellowing. One 8 oz. bottle of highly concentrated liquid outlasts equal...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspa...glosspolish.php

Windshield Restoration

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/win...estoration.html

Britt
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I've done this a bunch of times.. Wet sand with 600 and then buff with compound with a high speed buffer.. Then a little wax... Works all the time for me :D

1355177301_Caddy2.thumb.jpg.40dfc05e0861db8b3e74deec4f75cc76.jpg

 

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Ya me too...

I suspect the problem might be the "a common old car polish" Some of this stuff is really nasty... I would splurge and buy a new can of plastic polish or the Mothers stuff that was recommended to me...

Good Luck

.

caddy.jpg

Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac,

I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back

ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide

Greg

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A word of caution.

There is a danger in using a compound that is not designed for optical plastics. Optical plastics are defined as plastics that are used to transmit light or vision. Regular polishes and waxes have a tendency to yellow with age. If they are used to fill scratches in the optical plastic after sanding, then they will be nearly impossible to remove if they turn yellow. I have seen aircraft windshields made unusable due to this phenomena.

Britt

Britt
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I have tried all the different ways, and found that RANGERS way is the best.

Take the sand paper, and you will be amazed!

Life is too short to grow up!

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