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Need Engine Timeing Info


Matt

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Hi Britt, How ya doing guy? I hope all is well. Yes the new distributor is solid as a rock, just the way I'm used to seeing a distributor. Well to be honest I could not find or feel anything that would leed to an explanation.There was nothing cracked either. It is possible the casting was bad and the bearings were in cocked from day one causing the shaft to be in on an angle. I work with a couple of different hydraulic power units all day long rebuilding them and there drive motors and use a mess of different bearings so I can usually feel a bad bearing. I could not feel anything with this distributor. All I know this one is good. After following Bbobs instructions even the idle is getting closer to perfect. The idle will run smooth for about 15 to 20 seconds and then you can see on the tach and feel it drop about 50 to 75 RPM and then smooth out again. It keep doing the same thing over and over. I'm hopeing there is more fine tuning to do, heck everything is new. When I put the new distributor in I had the oppertunity to pul out my #1 plug so I pulled out all 4 plugs on the easy side to see how they are burning, all looked great. I pulled the #1 plug to check TDC and look at the rotor allighnment to make sure I was not off a tooth when I droped the distributor back down the hole. I did that just to check myself. I allways check myself, I guess I worry a lot. Yes I can't wait for Bob to see my post and give me a clue as to why my idle is like it is. I especially want to know why it stays up so hi when coasting. I find that very strange. I hope I did not mess anything up with the way I had to get the plunger to go all the way in. I will tell you this motor is nice and fast, WOW. The front tires break loos so easy and even one time I was pulling out in traffic and it was only in second gear when I had to let off a second then I nailed it and the tires chirped, that supprised me good. I'm happy with it. I have to make sure I do nothing stupid and get a ticket. Things will smooth out with my girl, I was not on the couch so all is not to bad. Talk to you again, take care.

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In an earlyer post I mentioned how nice cars were to Hot rod when I was a kid. Well I just found pics of two of my cars. The one is a 66 Chevell SS with 396, munsey T10 Banger 4 spd, 456 rear and I could not afford paint so I just left it in primer. The next is a 66SS Camaro with 350/ 350, 4spd and this one I could afford to paint. The Vet is owned by my friend, he and I would go out tearing up the streets at night. Those days were good. I do not know how to put two pics in one post so that is why there are two posts. Sorry.

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Guru, I have one other thing to mention that I forgot. In your directions after setting the plunger to .030 with the plug out of the ISC, the next thing they say to do it to put the plug back in and cycle the key off. I then took off the negitive cable for 60 seconds, wile waiting I took a quick look at the plunger and noticed that it moved up against the throttle and had it pushed up a bit off that idle screw. Is that normal for the plunger to move out a bit against the throttle ?? I then followed the rest of the directions to erase idle learn off sets...

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I would like to follow up on my strange idle problem from a few posts back. I also realize that I'm not sure if it should be this way or not so this may not be a problem. I'm waiting for Guru to find time to read my book of info. Sorry Bob, but like my doctor told me once" tell me everything" the more detail the better. I considder you to be like a doctor here so i'm trying to give you as much detail as possible.When my customers call me at work to figure out there hydraulic problems I pick there brains for ten miniuts. I had time to test the neutral idle down problem today as I was on the interstate. I took it up to 85 and took my foot off the throttle and slipped it into neutral. I let it coast down to about 50 and the RPM never dropped past 1500. Why is that; or is that normal. I wonder if any body who read through my previous posts thought about this and tested there car. I'd rather not guess at it but I think the idle should drop down no matter what. It will be great to see what you think Bob.

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Hi Bob. How ya doing ? I hope you had a good weekend. I'm glad to here it all sounds normal with my car, that's a relief. I understand now why the RPM stays up, it all makes clear sense. I will do the checks you spoke of with the computer on board to test the ISC. I was wondering how responsive the throttle should be. I realize this is not a performance engine but when you blip the throttle it seems to float back down to idle rather slow. Now you wonder, What is slow? That is like, is the glass half full or half empty. I guess it's hard to explain, I realize this may be one that you would need to see but obviously you cant. It looks like the ISC catches the linkage and does not let it get to it's stop very fast. I'll bet that is the job of the ISC right? or the engine may die? It's just that it seems like the ISC catches the throttle to hi up. This is why it's floating down slow through 1500 and 1000 and back to idle.If it would only catch it at say around 800RPM then it would seem more responsive. Would increasing the engine timing from 10deg BTDC to 12deg BTDC make it more responsive? We used to play around like that years ago on non computer controlled engines for performance. The only other thing is the idle smoothness. It's not to smooth. It's strange because you can count the seconds to when the idle faulters. It's the same all the time, every 5 seconds it drops about 100 rpm and then comes back up. I'v been looking at all the obvious stuff like vacume lines for days but see nothing up. I'm sure you are aware but just about everything is new under the hood. What should I look for with this issue? Thanks Bob.. Matt

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Great, Thanks Bob. Yet another thing that is normal. Now if I could just figure out that idle problem. It's like clock work, every 5 seconds it drops rpm and then back to normal. Very strange...

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