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Need Engine Timeing Info


Matt

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I'm sorry to bother you guys again especially since someone and I forgot who gave me the info before. My new Distributor should be here on Tuesday and I cant find the post with the instructions. I need to know the Timeing mark and at what RPM and am I supposed to set the computer into timeing mode or is there a plug someware I'm supposed to put jumpers on?? Again I have a 93 Seville 4.9L The 4.9L is a 1995. The distributor and vacume lines and engine cover should all be in on Tuesday. I'm putting the factory vacume lines back on the Throttle body to EGR valve relay and EGR relay to EGR valve. When I found them all hard and cracked and sucking vacume on the old engine I replace them with big 1/4" vacume hose because that was all I had at the time. When the new engine was put in they put the vacume hoses back on the new engine that I put on the old engine. There was the very thin lines on so I wanted to change it back to factory in case they are thin for a reason. Maybe the vacume flow volume is important or something. Thanks guys...

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Thanks for the info but i do not have 6 hours to go over all of that. I was just hopeing someone new what the settings were. Thanks for teaching me that however.

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I want to thank both you guys for locating the posts for me. I have one more question. What is the "ALDL Connector" and ware is it?. Also I think I understand that I do not enter computer diagnostic mode for Set Timing Mode. Or I think you mean that Set timing mode will display when I jump the pins. Yes I think that is it right? Then I should be good from there on in. Thanks

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I want to thank both you guys for locating the posts for me. I have one more question. What is the "ALDL Connector" and ware is it?.  Also I think I understand that I do not enter computer diagnostic mode for Set Timing Mode.     Or I think you mean that Set timing mode will display when I jump the pins.  Yes I think that is it right?  Then I should be good from there on in.    Thanks

Its under the dash by your knees, it may have a cover over it, you need to jump pins A and B (see photo) while NOT in diagnostic display...

post-3-1114525386_thumb.jpg

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Ok Got it now. I am looking for the UPS truck, should be soon now. Also watching for the parts service we use to deliver rest of goodies. Thanks guys. Will be back later.

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Matt,

UPDATE PLEASE.

Did you get your distributor installed? What did you find?

Britt

Britt
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OK Guys here it is; First off, Good Day to all. It's been a long time but I have to make the bucks when it's there, so like all of us work comes first. The "Distributor Replacement for the most part went well. I did make one major mistake though. I got back yesterday around 3PM and did my billing then a few other odds and ends. Then with out spending any time visiting with my girl I went right to work on my car. That was a BIG NO NO. lol . It was mighty cold last night let me tell you.----- So to the job; I hope I get this in the right order, I'm running on 3 hours sleep here,I will get to why. I removed the air box cover, the air box and bracket. Then the top most plastic cover that snaps onto the fuel rail. Next were the wires and cap, then I marked everything with a white paint marker so I could line up the base plate exactley the way it was bolted down. Next was the hold down clamp and then I lifted out the distributor paying attention to the twist it makes counter clockwise when you lift it up. I then marked ware the rotor was pointing to with white paint marker. I then switched the module and put on the better wireing that was on my old distributor. I chose to switch the module because of the problem I was having ware as the engine would run super rough and load up every now and then and how I could clear it up instantly by sutting the engine and re-starting it. I took a chance that MAYBE the module could be faulting. I figure it was worth the experiment. The original module was a GM and the one from the new dist. was a " KEM" made in the USA on it. I used the Dialectric lube on the heat sink under the module too. Next was reversing the procedure to re-install. I lined all up BUT the oil pump shaft down in the bottom of the dist.hole must have shifted a bit. I only had to move it a tad counter clockwise so the hex lined up. The distributor fell into place and all lined up with the white paint marks perfect. I put the clamp on and snuged it lightly. Then the rest went back together fine. I put a paper clip in the diognaustic plug A & B slots and started the engine.The opperating temp was about 200 and RPM was about 650 or 700. The dash read " Timing Set Mode". I put on the timing light and it lit for 30 seconds and failed.( This is why I was up late and only had 3 hours sleep.) I had to call a friend for a ride to another friend with a timing light . So then I checked the timing and it was off maybe a few degrese. I set it to 10 degreese BTDC. Next retightend good the base plate hold down bracket and rechecked the timing mark. Then removed the paper clip and restarted the engine to test again. I put back the air box set up and went for a ride. It felt OK. --- NOW here are side notes. This distributor is sold as a rock and there is NO shake at all. That fixed that problem!! Next the engine idle problem is only slightly better and not solid the way it should be. It is still hunting!! This still needs to be figured out. Now the TCM( Throttle Controll Moter) is kicking back and forth when you shut the engine and when you turn the key on till you start the engine. It is banging back and forth about 15 to 20 times then stops. I recently adjusted the throttle set up and it was not banging. I took off the two tork bolts on the bracket that held the TCM in place and set the idle speed with the tork screw throttle lever stop screw on the throttle body . I made RPM 675. I like it a bit higher but not to much. I then put the TCM back in place and turned in the adjusting rod to make it shorter. I used a open end speed line wrench,7/16 to do it. It works fine and grabs that star shape on the end of the adjusting rod good. I started the car and turned the rod out to have .030 clearance between the rod and throttle lever. When I did that in the past it worked fine and there was no banging on the TCM. I rechecked it again last night and saw that there was no more .030 clearance. So I reset the computer. First I started the car and took off plug on TCM, I pushed the rod all the way in and saw there was .030 clearance again. I shut car and took off battery wire for about 5 min. I put the plug back on the TCM and wire back on battery. I started engine and clearance was all fine again. It stays set too after shutting and restarting many times. But the TCM still kicks back and forth when you shut engine and first turn on key to start engine, till you start engine. PLEASE ADVISE as to why this is going on? Also can any one provide a picture of the timing plate showing the degree settings and the 10 degree mark?? I just want to double check my self. The car feels like there is a bit less power when it shifts into second for some reason. I should have checked the timing before I took it all apart. Maybe it was advanced a bit to gain a bit more power. I do not know if these fancy computer control cars still work like this. I dont know if I can advance it a bit with out making any problems like pinging or worse. GOD I'm tired. I will no make it all day at work I'm sure. O- and then there is my girl who is mad at me. I got to bed at 2:45 Am and was up at 5:20 Am. If I could just get help with this I may feel better. THANKS

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Well I got the timing figured out more accurate. Looking at it in the day light I see te degree marks are 0- 4 - 8 - 12 and so on. So now I have it set to approx. 10 deg BTDC.. I say aprox because the mark bounces around a bit. So now it's about 10 and then 10 & 11 and 10 & 11 and 12 some times. I think it's pretty good. I drove it and it is pretty fast now. I can hardly keep the front tires from breaking loose. I got a big smile cause it's pretty quick and power feels good shifting into 2nd. I extended the TCM( throttle control motor) rod a bit and it seems like the kicking is a lot less. So now its pretty much just figureing out the TCM issue and the idle that is not perfect. I was thinking maybe changing the oxygen sensors. I had a camaro one time that acted funny till I replaced them and it ran better. I have to fix things with my girl next. lol. Let me know what ideas you have for the TCM.. Thanks....

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Sounds like you renamed the idle speed control motor (ISC motor) with TCM ;) Search the archives for the proper adjustment procedure. That topic was addreessed many times.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Your right, that's what I did. Sorry to all. I will learn that right now. Thanks I will have to look and find how to do it. I'm working now and trying to stay awake, but I will try and find procedure as fast as I can. Take care....

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Matt when you started this job I said the hardest thing would be adjusting the minimum air, TPS and ISC motor. I will send the adjustment procedure to you by email its too big to post. Send me an email address so I can send this to you.

Other than this, how is is idling? Is the shake gone that you were experiencing with the old distributor? Mike

This is a TRICKY adjustment and its NOT done by the seat of your pants its a VERY detailed adjustment process, simply turning and futzing with the ISC motor WILL not give you a smooth running idle, return to idle, slow down to stop etc..

See this thread for my statement about the minumum air, TPS and ISC

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...&hl=minimum+air

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It was nice talking to you on the phone again Mike. Thanks for the E-Mail. I will be in touch.

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Hi Mike, I got the procedure OK. Its in jpg format and I'm having trouble printing it out here at work. The printers only do a word .doc. Any way, it is very complicated and I do not understand it yet. I'm stuck!!! This is going to be very hard I can tell. I will be in touch.

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Hi Mike, I got the procedure OK. Its in jpg format and I'm having trouble printing it out here at work. The printers only do a word .doc. Any way, it is very complicated and I do not understand it yet. I'm stuck!!! This is going to be very hard I can tell. I will be in touch.

Copy and paste the jpeg file in an open doc file.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Hi Mike, I got the procedure OK. Its in jpg format and I'm having trouble printing it out here at work. The printers only do a word .doc. Any way, it is very complicated and I do not understand it yet. I'm stuck!!! This is going to be very hard I can tell. I will be in touch.

I will send it in a WORD doc, not to worry, Mike

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The official instructions are much longer and more complicated but if you do this you will be 99% of the way there and it only takes a short time to do.

That is SO true! Thanks for the abbreviated version

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OK guys, I just returned to find all the info. Mike I got the word doc ok. Thanks very much for that. I wish I would have seen that wile still at work but I got called into billing to process my reciepts from the week. I must also thank you Bob for the condensed version of the instructions, if 99% is good for a start I would like to do it that way. What do ya think Mike? It seems a lot better and quicker for me. I'm going to print them out and then get a bit of sleep. With only 3 hrs last night I'm beet. I will either get on it later or in the morning at work. They say heavy rain but thats ok. The car fits in my shop no problem. Yes Bob, your so right, I really have it wacked out good. I fiddled with it again this afternoon trying to figure out things. The ride home was very interesting, the engine rpm was going nuts. I will get it right now though. I will start with getting the RPM set like the instructions say. I will let ya know Saturday how it went. Then if there are more instructions after that just let me know.( the other 1%) Nap Time.................... I will stop back later on. By guys....

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I must also thank you Bob for the condensed version of the instructions, if 99% is good for a start I would like to do it that way. What do ya think Mike?

Well Guru has some skills, but as you can see, he is only getting you 99%! :lol: Me on the other hand, I was getting you 100%! :lol:

Matt, just so you know it, most, if not all of us here genuflect in Guru's presence! If he says stand on your head while you are pouring the Dexcool we do it! :lol:

You see the difference is, I HAVE to go to the manual to get the DETAILED instructions and have NO idea of the quick method! :) And really at this point you are needing the quick method! Who needs the complicated method, its too headjamming!

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Hey Guys, WOW I guess I was tired. My " Nap" lasted over 4 hours. It's now after midnight and I'm ready for 7 more hours of Nap.. I have to tell ya Mike, if it were not for you and Guru and all others here that help, Myself and probabbly many others would loose lots of sleep. It's a nice feeling to be able to have faith in this board and to be able to go to sleep knowing that there are people here that care enough to spend the time shareing with others what they have learned through there own hard work. Mike, do not sell yourself short. Your ability to know ware to go to find the info and get your hands on it and then to be able to present it is a hell of a skill in itself. I believe that "research" is so important. It's obvious you are very skilled in this and in more. Mike I can tell what you say about Guru is true. Guru, if you told me to make sure my elbow was pointing north wile adjusting the ISC I would do it. I do a lot of reading here and I can tell whats what. I can't wait to get back on my car in the am. I will let you guys know how it's going during the day on Saturday. So far that 4.9L is cooking. Boy O boy it is fast. Catch ya all later. GoodNight;

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Matt, I am probably as happy as you are that the new engine is beginning to stabilize! It funny that you say that about my ability to research, as a commercial real estate appraiser, research is a major part of what I do! Thanks, Mike

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Good Morning. I just returned from my shop ware I followed Bbobs directions to the -T-.

Hi ya Mike, you know , it's easy for me to tell you are very very good at research and that you have been at it for a wile. You know ware to find all sorts of data very quick and present the correct data. I can tell you are good at what you do, I bet you are one of the better appraisers in your area. Some of us get real good at what we do. Most certainly my strong points are not with these new fancy cars. When I was a kid cars were the best. Hot rodding was easy and fun- a nice cam, strong lifters, roller rockers,balancing, muncy T10 banger trans, get the rear to hook up good and Bingo a nice speeding ticket! Ah those were the days. I'v been at my job for 23 years and feel I'm pretty good at it.Time will do that for some people.------- Well Guru I got to tell ya, what a difference after following your directions. Now the idle is about 630 or 650, it's hard to be exact with the dash tach. I come to a red light and the engine drops to idle and is not pulling. Also the ISC is no longer kicking back and forth like it was. When I start it up the RPM shoots to about 1300 and drops through 1000 and down to idle. It does not drop very fast, Im not sure if it's supposed to act that way. It most definetly is not floating down like it was. It's much better now. How responsive is it supposed to be?? Should it drop down very quick like I'm used to seeing on other cars?? Also when on the hi way at about 55 or 60 if I slip it into neutral with foot off the throttle the RPM stays at about 1300 and only drops slightly after a bit. Should it do that?? It's funny it does that because when you are not moving it goes back to idle. Bob, I had trouble forcing the plunger in, I had a friend hold rpm at 2500 for me and no matter how hard I pushed the plunger it would not budge. I thought to use the computer to manually override the ISC and then make it retract all the way, then I removed the plug to freeze it. I then exited out of computer mode. Did I mess up everything by doing that? I'm sorry if I did. I made sure I readjusted the idle point down to 450 like you said. The engine was barely running at that speed. I made sure the cruise control linkage was not holding anything back. Next I turned the plunger to the desired .030 clearance. Another note here; The plunger has what I will call play or free movement, I noticed that I coud push it in about 1/4" very easy, no force at all to ware it stoped. If you let go it would just come back out, like there is a spring or something behind it. The note is- I did Not touch that plunger except to turn it out to the .030 clearance. There was nothing in the instructions about holding it in to take out the free play. Did I do that right?? So what do ya think Bob?? I'm nurvous to here your thoughts but I can't wait for your instructions. Thanks guy.....

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Matt,

I will let Guru provide the answer to your question on the gap.

I was wondering what you found on the distributor when you pulled it. Was the housing broken below where it sits in the block? Is it hard to turn when you try to turn it by hand? I'm guessing that it was hit somehow and caused the shaft to bend. that would explain the movement that you saw.

I'm glad that you are getting close to being done. Possibly you can take your girlfriend for a ride & take her out. That should calm her down some.

Britt

Britt
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