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In light of ware my car was fixed ;


Matt

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With everything that has gone on I am going to change my oil again next week. I will just feel better doing it my self, there are those here that will understand why. I'm going to buy another gallon of "Rotella-15 W 40" oil and another oil filter. Now with all the talk about this additive "ZDP" or is it "ZDDP", I'm not sure if it's part of the make up of some oils or if it can be found in a supplement, BUT I want to make sure I have it. So please how do I know if it's in my oil( beside reading the container) or can I get it in some supplement. If none of the above should I just get another can of the GM, EOS. I'm trusting that it was put in the first run up but we know ware trusting got me last time with my old 4.9L. Is there another good supplement I should dump in or substitute for a quart of oil ?? I just want to be sure. I'm also planning to do the coolent again next week. I just feel how do I know it was done right? You know what I mean?? Thanks.

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Matt,

I think it is called ZDP. I also beleive Guru has said that it is in all oils in small amounts. I think the additive that you want is the GM EOS. That said, I don't think you need it. As I recall, Guru has said that is mainly for a new or rebuilt engines. Since your engine has many miles on it already, it is not really necessary.

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Matt,

What oil did you use when you replaced your pan gasket? Did you change the filter at that time? What did the oil and the inside of the engine look like when you took your pan off?

You will never hurt the engine by changing the oil too much. But if you used a good quality oil perhaps you should get a little more use out of it before changing it. Unless you used the cheapest oil you could find, I would leave it in at least 500 miles. Then I would change it and go with the OLM recommendations.Read Guru's posts on oil recommendations.

One thing that I would add, is that once you have made a choice of oil, it is best to stay with that brand. Don't use Mobil 1 then switch to Tech or Delvac and back on the next change. It is OK to make a change, just not every time you change oil.

I have had people tell me that any oil is OK, as long as it is slippery. <_< I hope that I never buy a used car from someone who thinks like that!

I personally have used Pennzoil since the early 60's. I have never had an oil related failure. I presently have a 96 Suburban with over 300,000 miles on it. It has never even had the rocker covers off.

Pennzoil isn't the only good oil on the market. I just prefer it personally because it has never let me down.

Like Guru says. Choose an oil that meets the recommendation of the car's manufacturer. If they make a change it the oil, it is always for the better. I just think that it is better to choose your oil carefully, and then stick with it. Don't start reading the hype that outfits like Amsoil is putting out and jump ship. Your car has an OLM, go by it, use a quality name brand oil & stick with it.

If you are determined to change your oil now, wait until you have changed the distributor and do it then. By the way, I don't remember if I mentioned it on the distributor change procedure or not, but be sure and CLEAN the area around the distributor before removing it, so you don't drop any dirt into the engine. (But you already knew that. :P )

Take Care, B)

Britt

Britt
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Good Morning all. This engine is the replacement I had installed about 6 days ago now. A few days later it developed a pan gasket leek so I took care of it my self. I simply saved the Rotella that was sugested I use. It came out very clean and looked great. Now due to what went on at the shop I will feel beter if I do a change right away. There is no way I can be sure if the additive I gave in my Box O Parts was used. The additive was for an engine that has sat a bit to help protect it during the first time run up. I plan on doing another change this week after the Distributor goes in. Im looking for any ideas about if I need a supplement and info on ZDDP. I'm also going to do the coolent again, I can't be sure about that either and I'm not going to take any chances. Thanks guys for the replys. Later

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Here are a few comments I found from Guru re: GM EOS and ZDP.

The GM EOS is real. It is simply engine oil heavily fortified with the ZDP antiwear additive. It has about 10 times the ZDP that normal engine oil has so it has excellent antiwear properties and can actually protect a scuffed area from snowballing into a catostrophic failure. The scuff can "heal" as the wear surfaces burnish each other if the scuffing is stopped. Scuffing ike that is caused by microscopic metal to metal contact and welding. ZDP prevents this by preventing the microscopic welding that would occur where the surface roughness breaks thru the oil film by contaminating the "weld" and preventing it. The ZDP gets used up as it is sacrificial in the process which is why you like a lot of ZDP in the oil. ZDP is expensive AND it contaminates catalytic converters (the phosphorus in the ZDP is nasty to the cat) so current gasoline engine oils limit the amount of ZDP in the oil. The modern engines need very little ZDP as described but it is good for those old muscle car engines.

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The EOS is simply engine oil that is fortified with lots more ZDP for anti-wear protection at breakin/assembly/poor lubrication condition.

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GM EOS is an oil additive developed and marketed by GM for use as an assembly lube and/or breakin oil. It is normal engine oil that is heavily fortified with the antiwear additive ZDP to prevent wear during breakin and to help an engine that might have endured some lubrication distress that possibly caused scuffing or scoring on a wear surface that is an incipient failure point. The ZDP will prevent futher wear as the scuff/score "heals" as the surfaces contact and the scuff/score will burnish and smooth itself rather than progressing into a catostropic failure. The EOS stands for Engine Oil Supplement.

It is not marketed as some miracle oil additive or anything that is normally required. It is a specific product designed for assembly of a new engine and breakin use. A similar product is used on factory engines at assembly to lube critical points at assembly and the assembly lube in the factory fill oil fortifies the initial oil fill with extra ZDP for extra wear protection.

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OK, now I understand even better the use of ZDP. I think what I'm going to do then is put my new distributor in ( being carefull not to let any dirt fall in the opening,but there is none, it's nice and clean) then do an oil change substituting some Rotella for the GM EOS. The EOS was in the box of parts but I do not really know if it was used. I will put another new filter on and let it go for about 500 miles. Then I will do one more change with Rotella and another filter, then I will go the distance according to the oil life indicator. I'm going to do the cooling system again to. I need to be sure so I can put this all to rest and enjoy my car. Thanks guys for your info. Have a nice Saturday, I will catch ya all later on today. Matt

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Matt,

I guess that they never "found" your old engine? <_<

I'd send them a bill for $400.00 for the core value. ;) Then take it to samll claims court if they don't pay or cough up the engine. :)

Britt

Britt
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Ditto, Scott will definately confirm the core charge! I think that is BS that they disposed of the engine without your OK.... Mike

Early on sailors navigated by the stars at night and the North star became the symbol for finding ones way home. Once you know where the Northstar is you can point your ship in the right direction to get home. So the star became a symbol for finding ones way home or more symbolically even finding ones path in life.

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I just got back in. That is a good idea. I can get Scott from ware I bought the engine to call them and ask what are they going to do about the core on the old engine. I hope they crap there pants. I will be back in a bit.

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