jndnaps Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 So the last couple of weeks the car sometimes wont crank when you turn the key. Just replaced a bad battery a few weeks ago but the problem was happening before and now after the new battery.. Current codes, IP-B2510 Steering Wheel Controls HVAC Key Stuck.. And IP-B2511. Steering Wheel Controls Conv Key Stuck. Most times if you turn the key a couple times it'll start. Tried changing ignition key with the spare and still does it. Hoping it's not the starter. Security light goes out so I'm assuming not the security system. Also, there are two red cables hooked to the positive side. One is good and tight but the other isn't. It's tight, but not enough to where I can't move it some. What are the two cables to? Starter is one but what's the other? Thanks!! Bruce Nunnally 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I would disconnect all the positive cables, ensure clean, and carefully reattach to ensure good contact. Many things are impacted by the way the cables are bundled into the battery. Could those messages mean that one of the buttons on the steering wheel (for the HVAC) (in this context the 'keys' on the 'keypad' are stuck?) is stuck, not the ignition key? Quote Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 couple things to try. There is a spacer between the cable ends. Present? If it is, take that apart and clean it well. Rotate the spacer a little bit. The teeth on the cable end that tighten into the spacer can wear over time and cause the problem with the loose cable. Also look at the teeth on the cable ends. If they are flattened then you either need to bend them back out or replace the cable ends. I have cursed GM for years for these stupid side terminals. I have had so many problems over the years because of them. One of the cables does go to the starter. Follow it from the battery, goes under the beauty cover, under the intake, to the starter Quote GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 23 hours ago, Bruce Nunnally said: I would disconnect all the positive cables, ensure clean, and carefully reattach to ensure good contact. Many things are impacted by the way the cables are bundled into the battery. Could those messages mean that one of the buttons on the steering wheel (for the HVAC) (in this context the 'keys' on the 'keypad' are stuck?) is stuck, not the ignition key? The guy cleaned them all when he changed out the battery, but I'll look into it this weekend. I think those codes are for the steering wheel controls. Both the stereo and A/C controls both quit working at the same time. I'm guessing there is a bad wire in the steering column or under the airbag. I'd look, but I don't want to mess with the airbag. With my luck it'll go off in my face.. LOL. 20 hours ago, rockfangd said: couple things to try. There is a spacer between the cable ends. Present? If it is, take that apart and clean it well. Rotate the spacer a little bit. The teeth on the cable end that tighten into the spacer can wear over time and cause the problem with the loose cable. Also look at the teeth on the cable ends. If they are flattened then you either need to bend them back out or replace the cable ends. I have cursed GM for years for these stupid side terminals. I have had so many problems over the years because of them. One of the cables does go to the starter. Follow it from the battery, goes under the beauty cover, under the intake, to the starter I'll have to check this weekend. Starts OK for me, but not the wife. Maybe it's her?? LOL.. Yeah, I hate those terminals. Should have stayed with the top terminals.. Thanks for the info. Bruce Nunnally 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 26, 2021 Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 I'm sorry to say this but I only trust what I see for myself. So many people are not familiar with how the side terminals work. They just think tight is good. But that is not always the case Quote GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 (edited) Question, would a starter relay work intermittently if it was bad or going bad? I'm thinking they just quit all together, but not sure.. 🤪 Edited June 26, 2021 by jndnaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 They can surely be intermittent. Some give warnings, but not always. I will say that out of all of these I have owned and worked on, I have never had to replace a starter yet. Knock on wood Quote GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 So today it acted up a lot. Checked codes and got Current IP-B2511 again and a new one, IP-B2515, Strg Whl Cont Illegal Resistance Value. Not sure what that means, but I'm starting to think the problem is gonna be in the steering column. Can't really find anything online about that code. The battery connections are clean and tight now with the spacer and still having the problem. Let me add that the dash/cluster lights didn't work anymore. I had that problem and had it repaired years ago. It went out many months ago. But this time even the message area at the bottom went out too. That didn't happen the first time it went out. Now, all of a sudden it's been working again the last week. Stays on most of the time now. So that's weird.. So now I'm able to run a code check. Seems like it started working when the starting problem started.. This car has a lot of problems.. It's a shame because it only had 137K miles on it. It also has a very small antifreeze leak somewhere. I can always smell it but can't find it and the car will run hot and overheat if we drive too much. Goes into that safety mode. But it's definitely a small leak. Only gotta add like a glass of antifreeze about 3 to 4 weeks. Also, today, the A/C blower motor quit working. LOL.. I'm trying to keep this thing alive without breaking the bank, but I don't think it's got much more time. The fat lady is getting ready to sing and off to the junkyard it's gonna have to go. Just wish I was smart enough to figure this out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdgrinci Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Just thinking out loud: does your key have a resistant puck in it; these can get damaged. Do you have another key to try? Quote Chuck '19 CT6, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 I don't have a '96-97 manual. The GM DVD manual goes back to 1998. The 1998 manual is pretty light on the B2511 and B2515. That said....there is a mention that 'IF' those codes are showing up......to start checking the IPC. Quote Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 5 hours ago, cdgrinci said: Just thinking out loud: does your key have a resistant puck in it; these can get damaged. Do you have another key to try? Yes, I tried the original spare key and have the same problem. 4 hours ago, Logan said: I don't have a '96-97 manual. The GM DVD manual goes back to 1998. The 1998 manual is pretty light on the B2511 and B2515. That said....there is a mention that 'IF' those codes are showing up......to start checking the IPC. Logan, thanks! So what is it I'm checking on the IPC? As I said many times before, I'm as dumb as a box of rocks so I need a little more info. I rode the short bus to school.. LOL.. 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Was kind of miffed not being able to find it under 1998......tried 1999 Deville.....voila...there it is. Looks like one of the following.... Steering wheel buttons are binding, sticking or broken. If nothing obvious you would need scan tool to check those...not AutoZone scan tool. A bad steering column SIR coil. A bad IPC. Damaged wires inside the steering column or in the harness somewhere. Bruce Nunnally 1 Quote Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 10 hours ago, Logan said: Was kind of miffed not being able to find it under 1998......tried 1999 Deville.....voila...there it is. Looks like one of the following.... Steering wheel buttons are binding, sticking or broken. If nothing obvious you would need scan tool to check those...not AutoZone scan tool. A bad steering column SIR coil. A bad IPC. Damaged wires inside the steering column or in the harness somewhere. Logan, thanks again for the info. Greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Gotta mention another thing. So the blower motor quit working. I went out tonight and just stood next to the car and I can hear it making noise with the car totally off. The car was off sitting there for hours yet I heard something making noise. When I popped the hood I can hear it coming from the blower motor and if I touch it I can feel it vibrate a little. Kinda sounds like it's revving up a bit and then back down. Like it's going from off to low speed and back. But if you're in the car it's not really blowing at low speed it lower than what low speed normally is. And it seems to do it in all of about 10 seconds and starts all over again. Ever hear anything like that?? This car is NUTS!!! LOL.. So I unplugged it for now.. I'm stumped.. This car is making me as nuts as it is. HA!! LOL.. HELP!! 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 I'm thinking the IPC is going bad. Seems like multiple bad IPC issues going on. Either that or some other module is going bad and pulling the network down. Odd switch codes.....no start....HVAC sputtering at night....no script on IPC. The older cars...('92-95) you could swap in a used cluster with minimal problems (mileage would be wrong etc). I think the '96-97 IPC's were changed to OBDII and have the VIN programmed into the IPC. I think a used one would cause a no start....but I could be wrong. You could walk the IPC into a Delco/ Radio / Speedometer repair shop and have it checked out (dealer will do same thing). Exchanged IPC units used to be about $300 thru Delco repair shops. Quote Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Worth mentioning... Have you had the SWRC issue since the IPC was repaired? Quote GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jndnaps Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 8 hours ago, Logan said: I'm thinking the IPC is going bad. Seems like multiple bad IPC issues going on. Either that or some other module is going bad and pulling the network down. Odd switch codes.....no start....HVAC sputtering at night....no script on IPC. The older cars...('92-95) you could swap in a used cluster with minimal problems (mileage would be wrong etc). I think the '96-97 IPC's were changed to OBDII and have the VIN programmed into the IPC. I think a used one would cause a no start....but I could be wrong. You could walk the IPC into a Delco/ Radio / Speedometer repair shop and have it checked out (dealer will do same thing). Exchanged IPC units used to be about $300 thru Delco repair shops. Guess I gotta put the thing back in the shop. This car is a money pit for sure. Probably still cheaper to fix with what used cars are going for now. Insane! 6 hours ago, rockfangd said: Worth mentioning... Have you had the SWRC issue since the IPC was repaired? Pretty sure it happened a year or so later.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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