Scotty Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Matt, You are saying that the WHOLE distributer is moving? If you were to tape a pencil to it (point up) and held a piece of paper or cardboard to the point, would it mark a small circle on the paper? If so, then I think that the distributer shaft IS bent. And I believe that you will find that the housing is broken below where it enters the block. Not good! You need to get it replaced ASAP! Here is the distributor removal/installation procedure: Disconnect: 1. Ignition battery feed wire from cap. Ignition coil connectors from cap. 2. Four bolts from cap & move cap out of the way. IMPORTANT! Location of cap "doghouse" must be in the same area on reinstallation for sufficient clearance for adjustment. 3. Six terminal PCM harness from distributor. 4. Distributor clamp nut and hold down clamp. 5. Note position of rotor (mark housing with a sharpie). Pull distributor up until rotor just stops turning clockwise and again note position of rotor (mark housing again with a sharpie.) Remove distributor. Important! Remeber the post about the thrust washer. It may stick to the distributor as it is removed. Verify that the thrust washer is in place in the bottom of the distributor bore before installing replacement distributor. Make sure that there isn't an extra one on the new distributor. Transfer marks to identical places on new distributor. Install or connect: (Make sure the replacement distributor has a good seal installed.) 1. Distributor with rotor positioned over the second mark as noted in removal step Rotor should turn and line up with first mark. (If you haven't turned the engine and the distributor won't go all the way down, it is probably because the oil pump drive isn't lined up with the new distributor gear. If this happens, while keeping fingers clear of the rotor & where you can let go if the whole thing spins, place a slight down pressure on the distributor housing and have some one bump the starter until the oil pump drive lines up & the distributor drops in the rest of the way. 2. Hold down clamp and nut tighten till slightly snug. 3. Six terminal PCM harness. 4. Distributor cap and four bolts. 5. Ignition switch battery feed wire. Then you will need to set the timing. 1. Ignition off, transmission in park. 2. Connect an inductive timing light to #1 spark plug lead. 3. (The book dosen't mention starting the engine, but I guess that we can assume that we can to warm it up.) With engine at normal operating temperature, and the A/C off, take off the aircleaner housing. (I also have to assume that you would stop the engine at this point before removing the aircleaner upper. The book doesn't say. ) 4. Jumper pins A&B at the ALDL connector (WHILE NOT IN DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAY) "SET TIMING MODE" message will be displayed on the Climate Control Driver Information Center (CCDIC). 5. Start engine and aim timing light at the timing mark. Set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC at any speed less than 800 RPM. Tighten distributor hold down. Recheck timing. Adjust if necessecary. 6. Turn the engine OFF & remove the timing light. REMOVE the jumper from the ALDL connector. Install air cleaner upper. You should be Good To GO! Britt Britt, I think Matt said that ONLY the CAP is moving NOT the distributor itself. BUT, now that I read this the SECOND time I am really confused, read this >>>With the distributor it is the cap that has movement. So it is the whole top half because the cap is secured to the base. <<<< WHAT? WTF is moving, I asked if the DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING THE FRAME is moving in the ENGINE or the CAP itself? WTF is moving? Come on Matt, help us out here... Is the part that GOES INTO THE ENGINE moving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Hey Guy, Thanks very much for the procedure. You mentiond to me in an earlyer post about it being cracked at the bottom. I saw that and have not forgotten it. I would have to try that pencil thing but I get what you are asking. The movement is not to sever, but I understand any movement is no good. It is enough that any of us looking at it for the first time would stop and take notice. I have a new one on the way, by end of next week I should have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Mike, I read it as the whole shaft. "With the distributor it is the cap that has movement. So it is the whole top half because the cap is secured to the base." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 I took Matt to mean that the housing, cap and all is moving in relation to the engine. Matt, is that correct? Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 I did also UNTIL I read this >>>With the distributor it is the cap that has movement<<< HUH? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Sorry guys. Did not mean to confuse. I'm at 18 hours up now today and getting a bit tired pluss am working on new problem in another post. Yes the whole distributor has the shake in it. Of corse you see it the most at the top of the cap( or coil). Thats the farthest from the base and you see it the best there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Sorry guys. Did not mean to confuse. I'm at 18 hours up now today and getting a bit tired pluss am working on new problem in another post. Yes the whole distributor has the shake in it. Of corse you see it the most at the top of the cap( or coil). Thats the farthest from the base and you see it the best there. OK, I would stop driving it ASAP... as Britt suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Stop driving it ??? But it's so little, but it is there and I know it is not good. What could happen dammage wise. Maybe I will see if Scott has any trucks coming my way on Friday or Saturday. I might be able to get the new one sooner. I got to hit the hay guys. What time do you all get up for work??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 I work 1500-2300. I get up when I feel like it. And that's exactly why I work that shift along with no rush hour traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted April 22, 2005 Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Matt, If that cast iron gear breaks up and takes the teeth off of the cam, I guess that would be "just a little" damage. It could go for years, or break on the next engine start. Your Call. Get some sleep. Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2005 Holy Crap!! I will make some calls first thing in the AM. Good Night Guys.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted April 26, 2005 Report Share Posted April 26, 2005 Matt, I posted this on the 21st of April. Britt Matt, You are saying that the WHOLE distributer is moving? If you were to tape a pencil to it (point up) and held a piece of paper or cardboard to the point, would it mark a small circle on the paper? If so, then I think that the distributer shaft IS bent. And I believe that you will find that the housing is broken below where it enters the block. Not good! You need to get it replaced ASAP! Here is the distributor removal/installation procedure: Disconnect: 1. Ignition battery feed wire from cap. Ignition coil connectors from cap. 2. Four bolts from cap & move cap out of the way. IMPORTANT! Location of cap "doghouse" must be in the same area on reinstallation for sufficient clearance for adjustment. 3. Six terminal PCM harness from distributor. 4. Distributor clamp nut and hold down clamp. 5. Note position of rotor (mark housing with a sharpie). Pull distributor up until rotor just stops turning clockwise and again note position of rotor (mark housing again with a sharpie.) Remove distributor. Important! Remeber the post about the thrust washer. It may stick to the distributor as it is removed. Verify that the thrust washer is in place in the bottom of the distributor bore before installing replacement distributor. Make sure that there isn't an extra one on the new distributor. Transfer marks to identical places on new distributor. Install or connect: (Make sure the replacement distributor has a good seal installed.) 1. Distributor with rotor positioned over the second mark as noted in removal step Rotor should turn and line up with first mark. (If you haven't turned the engine and the distributor won't go all the way down, it is probably because the oil pump drive isn't lined up with the new distributor gear. If this happens, while keeping fingers clear of the rotor & where you can let go if the whole thing spins, place a slight down pressure on the distributor housing and have some one bump the starter until the oil pump drive lines up & the distributor drops in the rest of the way. 2. Hold down clamp and nut tighten till slightly snug. 3. Six terminal PCM harness. 4. Distributor cap and four bolts. 5. Ignition switch battery feed wire. Then you will need to set the timing. 1. Ignition off, transmission in park. 2. Connect an inductive timing light to #1 spark plug lead. 3. (The book dosen't mention starting the engine, but I guess that we can assume that we can to warm it up.) With engine at normal operating temperature, and the A/C off, take off the aircleaner housing. (I also have to assume that you would stop the engine at this point before removing the aircleaner upper. The book doesn't say. ) 4. Jumper pins A&B at the ALDL connector (WHILE NOT IN DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAY) "SET TIMING MODE" message will be displayed on the Climate Control Driver Information Center (CCDIC). 5. Start engine and aim timing light at the timing mark. Set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC at any speed less than 800 RPM. Tighten distributor hold down. Recheck timing. Adjust if necessecary. 6. Turn the engine OFF & remove the timing light. REMOVE the jumper from the ALDL connector. Install air cleaner upper. You should be Good To GO! Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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