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Right Front End Noise!


CadiKing

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Well I have held off as long as I can.

I ran over a deer three weeks ago at 81 mph!

The right front wheel took the hit. No body damage.

Monday, after driving for more than 1,ooo miles with no

noise, the right front started to whine.

I have had the car up in the air twice.

The right front wheel seems to have no, or very little play.

I cannot get the right front wheel to make a noise when

it is up in the air. Tried it in gear, up to 40 mph, no noise.

The wheel sounds like it has a bad bearing only when

going down the road. If I weave to the left, the noise increases.

When I weave to the right, the noise dissapears.

How can I determine if it IS the wheel bearing and ONLY the wheel bearing?

How can I tell if there is any other damage?

I want to be sure it is only the bearing?

Your thoughts...

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You say in your title Ball Joint for sure?? You mean hub bearing I imagine. From the symptoms you describe it sounds like a hub bearing...

After the hub bearing is done I would have it aligned, if the hit was that bad.

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You say in your title Ball Joint for sure?? You mean hub bearing I imagine. From the symptoms you describe it sounds like a hub bearing...

After the hub bearing is done I would have it aligned, if the hit was that bad.

OOOOPPSSS!

Yes, I did Mean the Bearing!

Yes I will have it aligned...

thanks,

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Typically ball joints wouldn't make a whining noise like you describe. They might make play and clunks and bangs but not whining. If the noise is only there when there is load on the wheel and it is variable and sensitive to direction when you steer both ways I would say with about 90% certainty that the problem is the wheel bearing or the hub bearing.......

Not to say that the ball joint is not part of your overall problem but the ball joint isn't making noise like that. The noise would be the bearing. If the wheel is tight and there is no play in the joint then the ball joint is probably fine.

Hub bearings can make lots of noise with no play so that is not a conclusive test of a wheel bearing.

thank you, Guru!

Yes, I did mean the bearing.

Thank you for the explanation...

I did the figure 8 drive pattern, and it definitely

stopped making noise when I turned to the Right!

I will order a bearing.

While I'm under there, should I be replacing other parts?

I plan to do the Stabilizer links and bushings.

thank you,

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If you pull the control arm you could replace the strut rod bushings easily and if you want to get adventurous you could replace the ball joint.. Mike

Mike,

Funny you should mention it.

I was thinking about the ball joint this morning on

the way to work. I have concerns about it, because of

running over the deer at such a high speed. I am limited

in skill and knowledge, although I do have the manuals.

The maual says the lower ball joint must be serviced as

a unit, with the lower control arm. No mention of drilling

out rivets and such. They do not go into bushing replacement

either. I guess I plan to replace the bearing only for now and see

what develops. Like I say, I have concerns!

I will be taking the car to Darlington for the Race in May, so

I don't want to half-*smurf* it now, and pay for it later in some

stealership...

How do I locate part numbers for ball joint and bushings?

thanks,

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I doubt that a ball joint could be damaged from an impact. The service manual may state that the lower control arm/ball joint is serviced as a unit, but "in the field" I am sure that the ball joint can be replaced unless the construction or control arm material prevents it.

Try calling a NAPA near you and asking about a ball joint, I prefer MOOG parts if I don't get OEM. I have found that it is necessary to ask for MOOG otherwise they quote price for the cheapos. You could also try http://www.gmotors.com for a price quote.

Maybe your 99 STS has a control arm that needs to be replaced as a unit due to its contruction, but I kind of doubt that.. I just went to http://www.rockauto.com and they DO show a ball joint for your car for $51.79, about what I paid.. Replacing the ball joint requires that you drill out three case hardened rivets, that job is easier if you have a drill press, vice and 1/2" drill. If the thought of drilling out the old ball joint is daunting maybe replacing the lower control arm would be an option for you. that would give you a new ball joint AND new control arm bushing.

My 96 manual clearly details replacing the ball joint, see photo from my manual below.

post-3-1113479991_thumb.jpg

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The bushing I am talking about is the strut rod bushing (#4 below) on the bar that angles toward the front of the car, see red circle at the front below... Replacing all four of these bushings improve your directional stability, the car will hold a line better when you hit a bump especially on turns. This is out of my 96 manual...

post-3-1113480201_thumb.jpg

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Seville front suspension was redesigned for '98 (K Platform). Control arm resembles a typical "A" arm and the strut rods were not needed.

And yes, the ball joint carries a service part number (89033006 for '98).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Seville front suspension was redesigned for '98 (K Platform). Control arm resembles a typical "A" arm and the strut rods were not needed.

And yes, the ball joint carries a service part number (89033006 for '98).

Thanks Jim...

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