FlamingGoatBalls Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 Never done them before. Do I just compress the piston in with a c clamp on the back of the caliper and the other end pusing on the pad with the piston? Then seat the new pads where the old ones were? I have noticed that the pads seem to have metal tabs on the back. Do I bend these out so that they are the same diameter as the inside of the piston? I understand what pushes that pads out to contact the rotor but what brings them back in so that they dont run on the rotor all the time? I guess any info on the job would be appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddyman Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 yes, push it back in. do not bend the metal tabs, just oush it in, it will go in, try one side at a time..tilt it. you shouldn't ae any problems at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted April 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 so what keeps the pads from riding on the rotor all the time if the metal clips on the back of the pads just sit loose inside inside the piston cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 FGB, Those tabs shouldn't be "loose" in the piston. They should hold the pad to the piston. While you are doing this, you could get some "Disc Brake Quiet". It is made by CRC. You apply a small amount where the piston & caliper contact the BACK of the brake pads. This really helps quiet the noises most disc brakes make. You also need to push the steel bushings out of the caliper, clean them & the rubber bushings that remain in the caliper, lubricate them with silicone disc brake lubricant, & reassemble them. Failure to lubricate these bushings can lead to uneven brake wear, pulling and noise. Don't let the calipers hang by the brake hoses. That will damage them. Don't twist the brake hoses while working on the calipers. Be careful when you push the pistons back into the calipers. Do it SLOWLY. You may want to use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the brake reservoir so it won't run over when pushing the pistons back. Always use new fluid to replenish the brake reservoir. Never reuse brake fluid, even if it looks clean. If you have gone "metal to metal on your rotors, you will either need them turned or replace them. Read the recent posts about "bedding the brakes". Take your time and you shouldn't have any problems. Good Luck, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted April 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 can anyone tell me what the model number should be on my brake pads? I bought the cheap o Raybestos pads. Not the quiet stop or the PG Plus or anything like that...just the $25 dollar ones. What should the model number be on those so I know if I have the right ones. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted April 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 I think I have the Raybestos RPD505M. Are these right? Also,..how do I know when the pistin is all the way in and does taking the cap off of the master cylinder make it easier to remove the calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
an01sts Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 You have been reading some of the posts made by people who don't understand how brakes work. Read that sand the pads so that they have more clearance between the pad and rotor? The pads always remain in contact with the rotor, and as the pads wear, the pads remain in contact with the rotor. If you sand the pads to "get clearence," the first time you step on the brake--guess what? The pads will remain in contact with the rotor. When you compress the caliper, you can tell when the piston bottoms out. If you try to install the caliper and it doesn't clear the rotor, the piston isn't compressed all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 so what keeps the pads from riding on the rotor all the time if the metal clips on the back of the pads just sit loose inside inside the piston cylinder? Those metal clips don't just sit loose inside the piston, the spring steel clips provide tension to keep the pad in place. Anyway, there is not much movement of the pads when you release the brakes, just the tension. The outside pad clips onto the caliper. On my 96, the pads have two dimples that fit into two holes on the caliper and spring clips provide pressure to hold them in place. If you watch how the old pads come off as a guide you will be fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 I don't know where the reference to sanding the pads came from that an01sts speaks about, but if you just use a c-clamp to push the piston all the way in slowly you will be fine and the new pads will fit with no problem. Just make sure the inner and outer pads are engaged in their proper positions.... I am a big fan of having the rotors cleaned up so that the new pads have a clean and flat seating surface, but lets not get into that because many here feel that cleaning up the rotors is not required. The manual also states that resurfacing the rotors is not necessary. My humble experience is that shortly after replacing pads WITHOUT cleaning up the rotors pulsating will begin, I currently have pulsing in my REARS as the prior owner who I know had the pads replaced the day before I bought the car and the shop did not clean up the rotors. New pads in my humble opinion gouge out rotors that have thickness variences and the pulsating begins. If you have ANY pulsating with your old pads I would clean up the rotors, you will need to take them to a shop that has the machine to clean them up. You just want a light cleanup and you want to remove the thickness variance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 You should loosen the MC cap to compress the pistons. Rumor has it that a liquid (Brake fluid) can't be compressed, so loosening the cap will let the BF rise in the MC as the piston displaces it. rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmpafford Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 Rumor has it that a liquid (Brake fluid) can't be compressed Its not a rumor. That is why it is used to transmit force to the brake caliper. Flaming, doing a front break pad replacement is one of the easiest job you can do on a car except for replacing the air filter and adding oil. It takes a little time and is a dirty job, but not difficult. Just take things slow since this is your first time. After you have done one side and figured out how easy it is the other side will be a snap. Do one side at a time and make sure the car is supported by more that just a jack. Always have a second support as a fail-safe device. (jack and jack stand, two jacks, etc...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlamingGoatBalls Posted April 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2005 Thanks for you time guys. Youre "good people". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.