Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

CV's


MIke D

Recommended Posts

Every time I turned the wheel full lock right I heard a creaking/clicking sound on the left front. Then a few weeks later I hear it out the right side. Someone said CV joints. I thought Hmmm 205,000 miles... ok... took it to pep boys ( already heard it... still $100 cheeper then firestone and gm) They said yup... so I waited.. tight budget and work alot.

Then it started making noise with wheels strait, then shifting into reverse, then finally punching it from a rolling start... So I brought it in to the shop and had them changed out left and right.

So I drove it home... Turning hard left and right , trying reverse, then punching it from a rolling start... Sounds great.... Then I hear it.

Hard decellerating right hand turn... creeeek.. Cant make it happen again... It's there but I really got on the brakes hard... Front pads are good... What else could it be? ....tierod ends?

Any thoughts...

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites


SO many things can cause this, as ranger said Strut mounts can cause this (KGER2 had his replaced, he will respond later what his symptoms were), control arm bushings could do it also and since you are finding it on a turn, the strut rod bushings could do it as they contact metal to metal against the frame (but unlikely). It could also be a bad ball joint, do you have them greased along with the tie-rods every other oil change? Mike

PS: did Pep Boys get you for anything ODD besides the axles?

post-3-1112876203_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nope... tried "bouncing" the car up and down... nothing...

Strut bearings allow the struts to pivot, and they could allow vibration and cause a squeak I believe, KGER2 will post his experience on his 94

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scotty... Thanks to your help before I was warned about them "adding" things in.. They said that I was going to need a alignment when it was done.. I said "yeah uhm no.. i'll risk it" sure enough the car still drives strait. Also it feels like the car shifts smoother too. I know the cv's wereshot but I am thinking this was a 2 part problem that just surfaced at the same time.

There is no vibration or sloppy strearing. no unexpected bumbs or sways so I might let this one ride for now till I can save up more money.. I hope kger2 can send me some info on what his symptoms were..

Thanks again for the help guys.. Mike D

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An alignment needed because of replacing AXLES? Baahhhaaaa! NO WAY! :lol: I am glad we could warn you about them, they 'produce' revenue with their BS..... I will bring this thread to KGER2 when I see him, if he doesn't see it on his own, Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as the strut to knuckle interface is properly marked before disassembly and lined up upon reassembly, an alignment shouldn't be required.

If the tech didn't mark it before disassembly, the camber alignment fould be out of spec.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as the strut to knuckle interface is properly marked before disassembly and lined up upon reassembly, an alignment shouldn't be required.

If the tech didn't mark it before disassembly, the camber alignment fould be out of spec.

I have done this and have done it without disturbing the steering knuckle, only breaking the ball joint, sound right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as the strut to knuckle interface is properly marked before disassembly and lined up upon reassembly, an alignment shouldn't be required.

If the tech didn't mark it before disassembly, the camber alignment fould be out of spec.

I have done this and have done it without disturbing the steering knuckle, only breaking the ball joint, sound right?

Yup - that's another way. I've also R&R'd front axles by separating the outer tie rod from the knuckle - the strut will then piviot about the ball joint to provide clearance for the axle removal.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as the strut to knuckle interface is properly marked before disassembly and lined up upon reassembly, an alignment shouldn't be required.

If the tech didn't mark it before disassembly, the camber alignment fould be out of spec.

I have done this and have done it without disturbing the steering knuckle, only breaking the ball joint, sound right?

Yup - that's another way. I've also R&R'd front axles by separating the outer tie rod from the knuckle - the strut will then piviot about the ball joint to provide clearance for the axle removal.

Hmm, that's a new one on me! I can see how that is possible however...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the sound is more of a up down while the wheels are turning (not rotating).

Did some "sporty" driving on my way to the driving range and found that if I get into a corner hard and hit a pot hole then the sound is REALLY loud. Or under hard braking like say from 70 MPH then pull into a parking lot 5 feet away (almost mist the range) then it's a clunk not the creek associated with cv's..

Would the lower ball joints cause this.. Like the nimrod I am I thought they were a sealed unit so for the last 80K miles I have not touched them... oops...

Got a 4 day trip to mexico so I cant get to it till monday morning.. I hope they will just grease them and the noise will go away. But is it one of those if you hear it, it's too late??

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the sound is more of a up down while the wheels are turning (not rotating). 

Did some "sporty" driving on my way to the driving range and found that if I get into a corner hard and hit a pot hole then the sound is REALLY loud. Or under hard braking like say from 70 MPH then pull into a parking lot 5 feet away (almost mist the range) then it's a clunk not the creek associated with cv's..

Would the lower ball joints cause this..  Like the nimrod I am I thought they were a sealed unit so for the last 80K miles I have not touched them... oops...

Got a 4 day trip to mexico so I cant get to it till monday morning.. I hope they will just grease them and the noise will go away. But is it one of those if you hear it, it's too late??

This can be a lot of things:

Ball Joint

Strut Mounts

Strut

I would inspect the front end closely, or have a GOOD front end guy inspect it. Look at your front wheel/tire and see if it is 'squating' where the bottom of the wheel is OUT compared to the top, when you jack up the car, see if the wheel appears to straighten up as you jack the car up. Is the car pulling that direction? Are you wearing out tires on that side, especially on the inside?

Get under your car and look at the bottom of the ball joint, there should be a ZIRK grease fitting on it, that needs to be greased. If it has not been greased, I would first look at the ball joint first for the problem. Mike

By the way, yes, once you hear a bump induced noise like you have, you will likely need to replace something unless you can live with it. Sometimes these types of problems however create stability problems where when you hit a bump the handling becomes slightly erratic. The noise is enough for me to repair it, as I believe that the car experiences too much shock which I believe is bad for the car and can cause additional problems/damage. I actually have it happening to me right now, when I hit bumps it is transmitted throughout the car, I believe its due to a loose part, probably the strut mount in my case....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible to replace the insulator 4 and the bushing 11 without removing or braking the ball joint? The bushings are bad but the ball joint is fine and I do not want to neither brake it nor remove it by drilling out the rivets. Thanks.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible to replace the insulator 4 and the bushing 11 without removing or braking the ball joint? The bushings are bad but the ball joint is fine and I do not want to neither brake it nor remove it by drilling out the rivets. Thanks.

I have not tried that, but I kind of doubt it. BUT, separating the ball joint is very very easy. If you decide to do it I will lend you my ball joint separator. By the way, replacing the strut rod insulators made a BIG difference in my 91....

Here it is below.

post-3-1112912670_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well hi all and hi Mike D. Just talked to Scotty and he sent me this link. I just finished telling him that I figured out what was causing the groaning or creaking sound while turning the wheel to the left. He had to leave so he'll read my findings here.

First a recap of the problem. There are two problems. The first is a creaking sound coming from the left wheel area when turning the wheel to the left. Either while driving slow or stopped. But only during the action of turning the wheel to the left, not driving.

Second is a creaking sound from the front end while slowly going over dips or rolling bumps. I'm pretty sure this is coming from the stabilizer bar bushings.

I've sprayed the 2 stabilizer bar bushings before with silicone but only modestly with no results. Couple days ago I emptied a whole can of silicone spray on the 2 bushings making sure to concentrate on the little available gaps where the bushings meet the stabilizer bar. I took it for a drive. No change. I parked the car and the next day took it for another drive. Immediately i noticed the creaking sound while turning the wheel to the left was gone. Hmmm. 3 days later and it hasn't come back. The creaking sound from going over slow dips and rolling bumps is still present. I think the silicone needed the time to soak in. I also think those stab bar bushings are shot and need replacing to cure the other creaking. I think the silicone wasn't enough to temporarily offset the tremendous load being put on the bushings as far as the other creak is concerned. I'm hoping that replacing the bushings will cure both problems.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, when I get home on monday I will go get some spray and see if the noise changes/goes away. If this is the case then I will change them out. I wish I could tackle this now but I have to go to work... Off to mexico, Hope I make it out of there alive... Thanks again Mike D..

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kger2, If I recall you replaced your front strut mounts a while ago, what was the symptom you were getting from the old strut mounts? THanks, Mike

I ended up replacing both upper strut mounts along with the upper bushing. The mech thought the left side bearing plate was the culprit. Turns out that after spending a chunk of change the only positive thing I ended up with was a little firmer response. The creaking sound was still there. Speaking of that certain creaking sound.... it's back! It's been 4 days since the heavy silicone spraying and the sound just came back today.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So I finally could not take the sound any more... Went back to my (less than) favorite place, pepboys and just asked them to check it out. The mechanic said my noise is the strut bushings and mount. He said just wiggling the steering wheel you can see the strut mount move... I do not have a jack stand nor do I have any "big" tools.. I asked them how much and they said dealer only to get the parts.... Any thoughts on this...

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I finally could not take the sound any more... Went back to my (less than) favorite place, pepboys and just asked them to check it out. The mechanic said my noise is the strut bushings and mount. He said just wiggling the steering wheel you can see the strut mount move... I do not have a jack stand nor do I have any "big" tools.. I asked them how much and they said dealer only to get the parts.... Any thoughts on this...

Yes the parts are cheap, you can go to your local dealer or order them from www.gmotors.com, with the right tools its a reasonably easy job..Kger2 had his done. Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...