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rockfangd

Stalled ABS Pump 1997

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Hi All. 

I ran into this last year on one of my Caddys and this year again, Different car same problem.

I have replaced the BPMV and pump assembly on the one last year, have had to do them in the past as well. The motor is not serviced separately. It is part of the unit.

Anyway this is on my 97 Deville. Code is the 1243 Stalled pump. I put it away in the Fall, and when I start driving it in the Spring the pump motor is lazy.

Worse is that I never use the ABS or Traction Control. If you drive like a normal, (well thats not saying much lol) person it just does not get used enough.

I want to be able to exercise the pump motor. I have not yet figured out a way... I have tried Scantools, no luck.

There is no relay as it is controlled through the EBTCM. I am at a loss. The only idea I have is That the Case is the ground, The Positive is a Solid wire that runs from the BPMV to the motor. I thought about tapping into the wire and running it to a relay and switch. If I could do that I would run it for a minute and clean up the brushes. 

This is the 4th one I have owned that I have had this issue. Replacement is not very fun due to location and the fact all 6 brake lines have to be disconnected, then finding a replacement. Just not worth it. 

Anyone have any insight on the 90s generation ABS. Has anyone had any success cycling the motor with a scantool? I might add that in newer GMs this is still a issue. I have worked on many GMs that had lazy pumps. I use my Scantool and enable the pump for 1 minute. Some will not even spin at first. If that does not work then the whole ABS unit has to be replaced. Did I mention I live in NY where nothing Rusts (NOT).

I hope All is Well. This year has been a Drag. I send my best regards out to our fellow members. 


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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A quick look at the GM service manual shows no mention of a Tech1 or Tech2 being able to cycle the pump. 

You do know the unit can be split open? Right?

abspump.JPG

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have someone cycle the key on and off as you tap on the motor of the abs pump with a brass drift or long extension. The pumps tend to freeze up when not being used. I have a 99 deville with 200K on it as a Winter car and cycle it often and it still works great!

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That is how I have been doing it. I tap on it, then cycle the key.

I do know they can be split. The EBTCM is separate. Pain to get them apart though. 


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Is there no way to get at the motor to clean up the brushes and commutator and restore the most likely dried up bearing grease? 

In the last couple of weeks I restored a CS144 (97) alternator (no charge)  it had ingested oil and water, the brush springs were rusty and one brush was 1/4" long while the other was 3/4" long, and the slip ring was badly burned where the 1/4" brush rode.  This alternator used a needle bearing cup type bearing at the rear and it was dried up.  Replaced the bearings, brush set, tested the diode bridge, cleaned up the slip rings and it charges again.  The hardest part was getting the correct parts as the design changed along with the bearings and brush set.  

No way to get inside the motor?


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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So. There is the rust factor which is part of the issue.

So there are 2 bolts that hold the motor to the BPMV, they are small torx. Possibly T15, and they round very easily

The other issue is the power wire. It is soldered into the motor itself and is a solid wire that is soldered to the board on the BPMV. So even if you get the bolts out the wire is still a snag. I replaced the motor on one of my Eldos and I cut the wire and spliced the 2 halves back together.

Most of the ones I have ever dealt with are rusted so bad that the bolts will not even budge.

What I did yesterday was carefully remove a small portion of the insulation from the power wire and ran a jumper wire to the wire. I cycled and tapped the pump, then let it run for a minute. It went from barely spinning to spinning nicely now. 

The code has not returned yet. I hope being it will be driven it may not. If there was a relay or at least scantool function for it it would have been alot easier


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If I recall you are in Northern NY where snow and ice would exercise the ABS nicely all winter 😉, but this car is off the road during the winter.  

Smart way to spin the motor, thanks for sharing


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I start the car at least once a month. Sometimes that is just not enough


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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17 minutes ago, rockfangd said:

I start the car at least once a month. Sometimes that is just not enough

Yes but starting the car doesn't exercise the ABS motor does it?

Why isn't it enough?, to keep the battery charged?  


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It does, but not long enough. It only cycles when the engine is started. Not when the key is cycled on. It only runs for a second, If even that.

I keep trickle tenders plugged in for the winter. Keeps the battery and electronics happy😁


GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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