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Can you guys please direct me to ignition switch problems? My problem is suddenly all my accessories work with the key in run/start position, but ALSO when the ignition is OFF and the key is removed, and yes, even after the doors are opened...!    Thanks for any help, or redirection, if necessary         Bill in VT

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When you say all can yo be more specific?

Instrument cluster, Heater blower, All of this?

Stuck relay is the first thing that comes to mind. 

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Pretty sure the '99 is using the GM Saginaw steering column.....millions of them around back in the day. 

The ignition switches can and do wear out....but they will typically last the life of the vehicle. They are fairly cheap if it needs to be replaced. 

The good news is the actual switch is not up near the key part of the column....it's actually toward the bottom of the column. 

See attached pic....white / silver thing with the wires third of way to the bottom of the column is the ignition switch. Can be changed in less than an hour. 

 

ignitionswitch3.JPG

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The Deville does use the saginaw until 99. Was the last year. 

It could be ignition related. Easy to replace for the most part. Thank god it is outside of the column as if it were inside then it would not be easy

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thanks you guys...to be more specific 1) The car has an aftermarket remote start; seems to work fine up to this point. 2) Oddly, 2 nights ago, the car started ITSELF twice during the night! The next morning the battery was flat DEAD. 3) We jump started the car, drove for an hour, and when we returned home, it started fine. 4) HOWEVER, I did notice the radio stayed ON, even after turning off the ignition, AND removing the key, and yes, also after opening the doors! So, I found that with no key, the windows operate, W/S wipers, radio, but NOT the dash, or blower fan, so basically it acts as if it's stuck in the accessory position.  Does it sound like a ( key/mechanical ) ignition switch, or the relay further down the column, as shown by Logan? Thanks, you guys are really helpful!     Bill in VT

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you nailed it with the remote start. That is more specific.  I do not recommend remote start units on these. I have never had one for in one of mine. Too many things going on.

I would suggest unplugging the unit and see if things return to normal. I do not trust units that start to cause issues as they can damage components and can possibly be a fire hazard

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Haha.....I think that makes (2) in the last 30 days posted on this site.

A failed aftermarket alarm / and or remote start system. 

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OK, thanks guys, that could be the problem....so, we'll try to figure out how to disconnect the remote start system, and see what happens. Of course I'll keep y'all posted on what we find. Thanks!!!       Bill in VT 

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  • 4 months later...

Just a very late update....we have disconnected the remote start, and still have problems with the ignition remaining in the "ACC" mode, even with no key present. So, my son would disconnect the battery overnight (I know, not good)  Just another note, we did spray some CDC electrical cleaner into the ignition cylinder, which seemed to help, temporarily.  But somehow, the condition has "fixed itself", now the car seems to start and run as normal...(yikes!)  Thanks for all your help, guys...

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4 hours ago, bil.dun said:

Just a very late update....we have disconnected the remote start, and still have problems with the ignition remaining in the "ACC" mode, even with no key present. So, my son would disconnect the battery overnight (I know, not good)  Just another note, we did spray some CDC electrical cleaner into the ignition cylinder, which seemed to help, temporarily.  But somehow, the condition has "fixed itself", now the car seems to start and run as normal...(yikes!)  Thanks for all your help, guys...

Odd problem and 'fix'.   Its not likely any spray would penetrate beyond the lock cylinder and security key chip contacts into the switch itself.  I will try and get a schematic and look to see what might cause this.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I do not recommend anything other than a graphite lubricant in the cylinder.

If something other than that is used it can be easily damaged.

There is no electrical related part of the lock cylinder other than the 2 wires for the PATS pin to enable the fuel and spark.

If the remote start has been disconnected but yet the ignition is still staying in Accessory I would try a few things.

If the car is staying in accessory I think of a few things. RAP (retained accessory power) keeps power to the radio and power windows for a period of time unless a door is opened.

That being said, does opening a door shut the Accessories off or do they say on?

Possibly a stuck RAP relay.

If issue is specifically ignition related I suggest that when you turn the car off to push the key to ACC, then back to off.

If the ignition(not cylinder) is going bad this trick should lead you in the right direction

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thanks guys. I know it doesn't make a lot of sense ( the spray ) but it did work sometimes for a few hours, sometimes overnight.  Rockfangd,  yes even when the doors were opened, the accessories would still work. But oddly, and truthfully, the condition has stopped for several weeks now. My son wanted to mention, that he did use the car often to jumpstart his '85 Corvette ( another project ). Thanks for all your help everybody! I do have another question, about replacing a 4.1l in a Seville, with a different engine, will post soon.    Bill

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Maybe the clue is that your son OFTEN used the car to jump start his 85 Corvette.  A dead battery puts a very heavy load/draw on the car doing the jumping.  Ask your son how he performed the jump.  If he connected the jumper cables to both cars and THEN started the Cadillac, he might have melted or overloaded the ignition switch contacts or a relay.  With all of the electronics and computer, I have been reluctant to jump any car, its best to remove the battery, charge it, then reinstall.  

You need a schematic to diagnose this but I can't help but think the ignition switch is the problem.  

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You are absolutely correct. I jump nothing, and will not jump these. 

1. GM side terminal crap

2. Too many sensitive electronics to mess up

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I have upset many people refusing to jump them.  And while the owners manual gives instructions on how to do it, not me!

I do not like the strain placed on the alternator on either vehicle.  

This is why I have AAA for emergencies, a battery charger, a trickle charger.  You only need to change this alternator once to know, you do not want to do it again too soon.  

A dead battery is a huge current draw.  See this

ALTERNATORS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO CHARGE DEAD BATTERIES

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/2012/08/fact-alternators-are-not-designed-charge-dead-batteries

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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