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power window switch


ROCKnROLL

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The driver's window went down but won't go up.

Pulled out switch to test and according to the manual if the test light doesn't light probing B & F connectors then it's bad.

If anyone has a switch let me know. 97 seville.

My question, is there a way to bypass the switch so I can get the window up. That way my wife can still drive it while I'm getting a replacement switch.

Thanks

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If you want a quick fix.....since you will be replacing a switch anyway...take a good one off one of the other doors....you can then get the window up...I would not try jumping wires to get it closed....Motors can fry that way and you will have bigger woes...

Russ

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You might consider removing the door panel and the window motor inside (just a few small bolts).

You should be able to work the window up by hand and then reconnect the motor and door panle to keep it in place.

Is it possible that the motor failed anyway?

Good luck :)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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I would take the switch assembly out of the door, find the wires for the drivers switch and manually jump them on the up side....

Be CAREFUL taking the switch assembly out, if you don't have a manual, I will post the directions, you can break off clips if you don't remove it correctly, they warn you a bunch of times, I just removed mine last week.

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Scotty,

Before I removed the switch assembly I backprobed with my test light that indicated the switch is bad.

But I can't seem to manually get the window to go up. I'm putting the jumper between the 12v © connector ( pink wire) to the UP (F) connector (dark blue wire).

Is this correct or am I doing something wrong?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

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Scotty,

Before I removed the switch assembly I backprobed with my test light that indicated the switch is bad.

But I can't seem to manually get the window to go up. I'm putting the jumper between the 12v © connector ( pink wire) to the UP (F) connector (dark blue wire).

Is this correct or am I doing something wrong?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

It sounds like you are on the right track, the problem may not be your switch but in the motor or wiring. If you have an ohm meter, I would disconnect the connector and test the switch at this point in both directions for continuity... If you have continuity your problem is elsewhere. A test light would work. If I am reading you wrong, and you DID determine that the switch is bad, I would use a jumper from the 12V each of the other wires one should be up and one down. Did you in fact determine that the switch was bad?

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Scotty,

The one thing that concerns me is when I test the switch connected it shows the up side is bad (test light lights for down side but does not light for the up side). But when I remove the switch and try to jump the wire connector I can't get it to work.

Thanks,

Rock

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I was unable to jumper the window up on my 97 STS. I am not sure why it did not work. I drove down to the dealer and they installed a new switch assembly in about 15 minutes. I spent the money at the dealership just to make sure I was not replacing a perfectly good switch assembly. I think the whole asembly cost about $75. You should be able to find it cheaper online.

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Thanks tmpafford,

I feel alot better!

I'm sure it's the switch since it failed the test lamp test.

I'm guessing the wiring layout on the doors prevents you from bypassing the switch. Maybe something to do with the express down feature.

I'll just have to hope I don't get caught out in the rain before I get a replacement.

Thanks,

Rock

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