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Used '95 SDV for $ 3K


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One of my engineer's parents has a 1995 Gold Sedan Deville with 130K miles on it he says I could probably get for $ 3000. His Dad was trying to get $ 5000, but to no availe. I asked for some pic(s).

He says its never been wrecked and the only issue they know of is they can't get the ABS to go off after a brake shop, they have even checked the connector(s). The soft top has strings coming off of it as he described it, I really need to see the pics. Anyway NADA lists the car value as LOW RETAIL $ 4450, AVERAGE RETAIL $ 5775 AND HIGH RETAIL $ 6850, so it doesn't seem like a bad price.

Any thoughts on that year model and price?

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Are your NADA prices from the bank or the NADA website? I've noticed that the websites such as NADA, Kelly Blue Book, and Edmunds seem to report a value much higher than the actual market value.

You need to find out why the ABS light is on. It could be a bad sensor or a defective ABS module or ????

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Assuming the car has leather, Edmunds lists the prices as follows:

Trade: $1461

Private Party: $2224

Dealer Retail: $3506

This was with "Clean" condition as it doesn't fit the description of "outstanding" per your description of the threads in the top.

Based on those numbers, it's no wonder he couldn't sell the car for $5000......

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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You need to find out why the ABS light is on. It could be a bad sensor or a defective ABS module or ????

Does anyone know the cost or extent of having to change out the ABS module, if it needs replacement?

Here are some pic(s) of the car, it is a champagne color I believe, and looks to be in pretty good condition, it has been out of the sun, which important to me, should I consider buying it.....

post-3-1112292004_thumb.jpg

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Willie,

First and formost; You have a connection with possibly the

original owner. That is important!

Check it out by getting codes, etc.

Make sure you DRIVE THE CAR!

Make sure YOU want to drive this car for...how long?

Never been wrecked...

Never been stolen...

Never been beat up...

You probably can't got wrong...

At the very least you can ask the questions which are

important to you, directly to the seller...

You are familiar enough with the caddy's to know

at 131,k miles what will be coming up for maintainance

if it has been done yet...

Can you get look at break pads, if you care?

How evenly are the tires worn?

Trunk leak?

Plugs? Belts? Hoses? Wires?

Do some figure 8's in a parking lot..

Squeeks? Loose Steering?

Codes are good...

Bells and whistles all work?

Look over paper work, ask the right questions..

Assess what hasn't been done..

Then get the right price and buy it!

The pictures look great!

If you get the right price, and you like to drive it...

What's to loose, after all...it is a Cadillac...It is not

as though the car is going to fall apart...It may need some

TLC...Remember, under that exterior is a super car! a Cadillac!

my .02

you asked...

Good luck and check it out with some WOT's...

enjoy

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Willie: In my spendthrift youth, I have bought my way out of leases with penalty payments exceeding $4000 .... that's just to cut my losses 6 months into a 48 month contract, all because I saw something that was flashier and newer.

If you bought the car and it turned to dust the next day, the most you could possibly lose is your $3000 investment ..... drive anything, anything off any lot and you will lose significantly more than 3k when you cross the dealer's curb.

How can you lose? The car looks cosmetically acceptable, if the codes check out, drive it for 2 years, then sell it for 3k .... or, you can check out a certain lime green 92 STS for $7500 as seen elsewhere on this board :D

1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver

1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather

1997 STS Diamond White

1999 STS Crimson Pearl

2001 STS Silver

2003 STS, Crimson Pearl

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my .02

you asked...

Good luck and check it out with some WOT's...

enjoy

CadiKing,

I appreciate the feedback and insight, ...that's what makes this site great!!!

Your Welcome Willie,

Let us know what happens.

Remember, price is only as important as it is to YOU.

I'm not saying go out and get hosed, but $3,000 or $4,000...

How much does it really matter if you end up with dependable transportation?

Buy a car that breaks down every three days and price becomes unimportant!

Buy reliability! not price.

Best of Luck,

Can't you just see that baby in your driveway?

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OK here's my .02

Make sure all the lights on the dash work. The caddy I purchased from a dishonest individual had the traction light always illuminated on the instrument cluster. :angry: The solution for the previous owner was to put some black electrical putty over the light seeing how you can't disconnect those bulbs in there. They are all LED's. It took me months to figure out why the traction control wasn't working. I assumed nothing was wrong... no lights right?!

I know that all the lights come on when you start the car, but it is tough to tell which ones should be there because of the blacked out panel. An easy way to see if all the lights are illuminated when you turn the key on is to take a bright flashlight along with you. You will then be able to see the outline of the letters in the dash.

Just another thing for us to check if ANY of us are considering buying a used car.

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OK here's my .02

Make sure all the lights on the dash work.  The caddy I purchased from a dishonest individual had the traction light always illuminated on the instrument cluster. The solution for the previous owner was to put some black electrical putty over the light seeing how you can't disconnect those...

Darn Boatboy,

I don't mean to offend, but...

Did you have a dark cloud over you head when you bought that one?

That SOB had to go WAY out of his way to "putty"

the freakin' lamp...

Fact is, if he spent the same amount of time and effort fixing

the problem, there would be no Putty...

I figure, if a guy is going out of his way to defraud,

he must need the beer money!

Thanks for adding that... I admit, that's a new one...

but it gives me an idea for a poll...

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Darn Boatboy,

I don't mean to offend, but...

Did you have a dark cloud over you head when you bought that one?

No offense taken, but I don't think its a dark cloud... just a big sign that says "Come $#!@ on me".

You are right. That SOB had to go WAY out of his way to do that. I know this cause it took me a while to get the dash apart to discover this.

Good news now though is that its fixed. I replaced the EBTCM and now the traction control is working.

It might be worth mentioning that the unscrupulous person that did this runs a garage. He also claims to "specialize" in Cadillacs as he has been through "Cadillac school" just to learn about them. I highly doubt that they taught the putty trick there.

As much of an ahole that this guy is... he is not stupid. The car that I bought was transferred to his parents and then I bought it from them as a private owner.

Lesson learned, be careful... You never know who is around the corner that just wants to screw you over.

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"...As much of an ahole that this guy is... he is not stupid. The car that I bought was transferred to his parents and then I bought it from them as a private owner. "

boatboy,

That's for sure! He was protecting his business by selling to his parents.

It's been said that jail is full of smart people...

they just got caught!

thank you,

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Bummer,....I just looked at the car and the seller was confused, it is a 4.9L rather than a N*. All my experience is with the N*, and so is my desire for my next car.

The 4.9L looks like a pushrod engine, is that right?

Willie,

WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT????

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Bummer,....I just looked at the car and the seller was confused, it is a 4.9L rather than a N*. All my experience is with the N*, and so is my desire for my next car.

The 4.9L looks like a pushrod engine, is that right?

Willie,

WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT????

The car does not have a 4.6L Northstar engine, rather a 4.9L engine. I drove it before I looked under the hood and when he stated his Dad had trouble with the valve covers leaking, that drew a question mark in my mind. When we got back I popped the hood (as I was planning on doing), and was surprised to see the 4.9L designation. I have not idea the 4.9L was so different, the valve covers look like a lifter-based valve train, and it even looked like it had a throttle body type injection system.

Is that so?

I did interrogate the PCM and he had a P052, T035 and T036 code also..., but at that point, it didn't matter, I'm looking for a 4.6L, preferably an good used ETC now...

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Bummer,....I just looked at the car and the seller was confused, it is a 4.9L rather than a N*. All my experience is with the N*, and so is my desire for my next car.

The 4.9L looks like a pushrod engine, is that right?

Willie,

WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT????

The car does not have a 4.6L Northstar engine, rather a 4.9L engine. I drove it before I looked under the hood and when he stated his Dad had trouble with the valve covers leaking, that drew a question mark in my mind. When we got back I popped the hood (as I was planning on doing), and was surprised to see the 4.9L designation. I have not idea the 4.9L was so different, the valve covers look like a lifter-based valve train, and it even looked like it had a throttle body type injection system.

Is that so?

I did interrogate the PCM and he had a P052, T035 and T036 code also..., but at that point, it didn't matter, I'm looking for a 4.6L, preferably an good used ETC now...

The 4.9 engine has multi-port fuel injection.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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