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Rear Brakes


kcd1184

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Had the tires rotated and balanced yesterday. The rear pads are getting low. I have the manuals and it states that unless you are experiencing pulsating or pulling during braking, leave the rotors alone, but to have them turned ON the car if needed.

I'm not having ang braking problems and there is a small ridge outside the pad path. I just turned 100,000 miles and I don't know wether to take off and turn if there is enough metal left, replace, or leave alone.

How big of a can of worms am I getting into?

Kent

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If you're not having any pedal pulsation, just install new pads and bed them in by 10-12 stops with medium pressure on the brake pedal and you're good to go.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I have the manuals and it states that unless you are experiencing pulsating or pulling during braking, leave the rotors alone, but to have them turned ON the car if needed.

Kent

How is this done? :unsure: I don't think I've ever heard of this process before! Some sort of portable lathe device I'm thinking, but have never seen one...

I'm with KHE if you're not experiencing any uneven braking or surging. I was planning on turning mine myself (as they are much smaller than the fronts and easy to fixture). I had already replaced the pads only over 20k mi. ago and they worked great. I am just doing it to clean them up while I have them off to cross-drill them. B) Have the program written, just suddenly have too many irons in the fire! :rolleyes:

post-3-1112127571_thumb.jpg

'09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi.
'15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi
'70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration!

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