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SOB!

Im thinking that my heater core is plugged again!

I replaced it last Dec/Jan right after I bought the car in Fla. and brought it to NY for my new winter rat!

Well the last week or so the heat has been lukewarm like when I bought it.

So I figure over the life of the car (90k miles) the dealer went overboard with the "sealant" tabs as the old

core was loaded with them.  No overheat issues even in the summer in Fla. with the a/c pumpin' out snow

All hoses are hot where they should be and as its winter flushing the core is not a option even tho I have a

heated garage here in blizzard belt NY!  I would rather replace the core instead now that I know how much

swearin' and tool tossin' is necessary to disconnect the engine side core hoses!

 

Caddy rear.jpg

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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I would check the heater control valve first, not uncommon for those to restrict coolant flow.

Let me know how it checks out, There are a couple of other things you can do 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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If there was excess of bars leak then I would say it is probably clogged again.

Not a bad idea to check the valve though.

Those coolant hoses are funny. Sometimes they weld themselves to the pipes, others come off ok...

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Guys.......

Aint no heater valve in these ol' squarebodies!   

3 way factory restrictor "tee" in place and temp accuator working properly.

HVAC control and temp functions working properly.

Just weak heat AGAIN!

Am I missing something?

 

 

(not my pic)

989257662_caddyheater8.jpg.eee882bbc984b0f75d8e0b2cbabc4763.jpg

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Why not just back flush the heater core with a garden hose? If junk comes out then you know what was wrong. If the core starts leaking, then replace it. Also if junk comes out, you should flush the entire cooling system, but not with the machines they have out. I personally don't think they work well. I have an old school type flusher that uses compressed air and water. Works great. Just my 2 cents.

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OT......Yea a backflush would be my first move!

BUT its winter here in blizzard and ice land NY and the water hose has been put away

and the garage is warm and dry so a wet flush is out of the question.

I pondered that last year and figured I would just replace the core as it was "easier" and

dryer than flushing!

The anitifreeze was yellow and clear and no overheating issues either.

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Nope,  Glovebox out and accuators working properly.  Temp door fully opens and closes.

Yea........another heater core.

 

(not my pics)

 

02607.jpg

02609.jpg

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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16 hours ago, sonjaab said:

Guys.......

Aint no heater valve in these ol' squarebodies!   

3 way factory restrictor "tee" in place and temp accuator working properly.

HVAC control and temp functions working properly.

Just weak heat AGAIN!

Am I missing something?

 

 

(not my pic)

989257662_caddyheater8.jpg.eee882bbc984b0f75d8e0b2cbabc4763.jpg

Did you check to make sure the valve/orifice is not plugged? You can do a temp check... If the inlet is HOT and the others aren't as hot pull it out and look.

Back flush it if everything else checks fine before you pull the core, or pull it since you had fun last time... JK :)

Is the coolant level correct?  What is the coolant temp?

 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I suggest warming the car up,

feel the hoses to the heatercore, Or check with infared temp gun

If there is a difference in temp over 10* or so I would say for sure it is restricted

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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No infrared temp guage.

Hoses in wheelwell and firewall leading to core seem equally hot.

But as you guys know that the core stands up mounted in the car and the water

inlet/outlets are at the top of the core and the bottom of the core must

fill with the sealant tab threads so water flow is not restricted but the area of water

being heated is tiny so then poor heat output.

I figure this from cutting open my old heater core and noting it half filled with sealant

tabs.

(no pics on new PC to post)

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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I know of GM stating the newer N*stars didnt need the sealant tabs from when I had my 2011 DTS.

But this 93 Deville 4.9 was Fla. oldster owned from new and I am sure the dealer service sold them

a bunch of services!  Prob. too may tabs or because of the tabs and the way the core sits in place

the tabs load up the bottom of the core.

 

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Still sounds like an air mix door problem. I went back through the post, but, since I don't subscribe to photobucket I couldn't see the pictures. The Deville used the air mix door to control the amount of air through the heater core. Even if the actuator is moving, that  doesn't mean the door is operating correctly.

True, the tabs would eventually clog radiators and heater cores but that was over a long period of time. One year to plug a heater core is very extreme...especially since the coolant is in pristine condition.

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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All i can say about the air temp door is when the adjustment rod is disconnected and i move it

stop to stop the temp would change dramatically from hot to cold after core change out.  

Where it was cold to lukewarm before core change.

I was freezing to death on the trip from Fla to NY after I bought it and stopped at a rest stop in VA

and pulled the glovebox to check the air temp door!

When the adj. rod is reconnected it moves stop to stop with the accu. from the temp control setting.

So I figured that ruled out the temp door operation.

Agin I will mention the inlet/outlet positions on the core and the way it sits in the HVAC box and the thinness

of the core tubes I figure just a few crushed sealant tab "threads" would clog the core lines.

My tech bud mentioned that when i whipped out the old core and broke the plastic tanks off today

and we eyeballed it loaded with the tab "threads" and figure its plugged again while drinking a cold one!  LOL!

SO I guess I am gonna gamble another $30 and replace it.

 

Im COLD!

 

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Good, I was thinking the heater was switching from hot to cold rapidly.

If this heater core plugged in a year I would replace the radiator. GM instructed the pellets to be added to the radiator,,,, 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Hmmm replace radiator?

Too cold for that here in snow and ice land along with a flushing.

So either gonna live with it or at least swap out the core.

Thanks for the tips tho..............

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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  • 10 months later...

Well folks it winter time again in NY and I have NO HEAT again!

Hoses are hot, temp door working properly etc.

So I guess it time to swap the core again!

Prob. loaded with sealant tabs!

Cheap aluminum replacement again!

Brass and copper OE $pendy!

Good thing I know the core hoses will be easier to R&R this time.

Will try and get pics this time.

 

Otherwise NO issues with the old girl except for new front pads and rotors.

Brake parts for these cars are dirt cheap!  R&R is a snap!

caddy rear.jpg

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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BTW:  Gonna be the first full winter on my new rat!

Fla. fresh and shiny and rust free with cold a/c to boot!

Yea its got mucho heat!

 

Poor old and trusty Buick  rat engine cradle too rotted out to pass NY Inspection.

So we be driving this one in the snow!

 

 

s-10-2.jpg

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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Just for the heck of it check the temps of the 2 hoses to the core.

drastic difference surely means plugged core. 

Close or same temp without air flowing over core should mean core is ok

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Can only get to the "in" hose to check temp.

The "out" hose is hidden either between the fender/firewall

or by removing the RF tire and splash shield to get at it!

Sheesh!

Might just as well as swap out the core!

No complaints tho. cuz I have replaced harder ones!

 

 

 

cars.jpg

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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