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EGR and rough engine


Matt

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Mike, again thanks. Please read my entire post on what the engine is doing. The EGR replacement did not fix the problem. In my other post I explain it all. BUT I HAVE NEWS!! I had to go out today, a ten min ride tops. Back streets and then 2 miles on hi way at 60 MPH. The engine ran fine. When I started engine to come home it was a mess. Very bad hesitation and stumbling down the road. I thought to try something here. I pulled over and shut off the engine. I waited no more then 60 seconds and restarted the engine. It ran smooth the rest of the way home. It had not one stumble or hesitation and had plenty of power. Mike you said in the post to me that it may sound like TPC, what is that? Also I cant figure out how to access the computer to check the codes. Once a few weeks back you sent me some info on how to get to the codes but that did not work. Again it is a 93 Seville with 4.9L. can you tell me another way to access the codes so I can look for a problem, also what exact code should I right down? It is something that the problem went away after I shut down and then re started the engine again. I do not know what made me do that, I think I was thinking of the computer and what it was doing to the engine. I was doing a re-set I guess. Thanks Mike.

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Matt please STAY in the same thread, starting new threads creates problems reading all the history and once this becomes archives, people can not benefit from your experience easily.

If you look at my response you will SEE that I am aware that replacing the EGR DID NOT fix your problem because the way you tested it was wrong and the EGR appeared defective.

Have you called up the codes by holding the OFF and WARMER buttons on the DIC? If not do so and post the codes here.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and letting the system do a re-learn procedure, if not do so and see if the codes come back. While you are at it clean your battery connections this could be a bad connection witnessed by you turning off the engine for sixty seconds and then it was OK

Have you cleaned your TB (throttle body)? If not clean the throat and throttle plate front and back with O2 sensor safe carb cleaner or GM top engine cleaner.. Use a tooth brush and lint free cloth.

Its possible that this is TPS related, that's the Throttle Position Switch or it could be your ISC motor, but lets dump the codes first and do a re-learn. Mike

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Matt, you said this >>>Once a few weeks back you sent me some info on how to get to the codes but that did not work. <<<

If something does not work that we ask you to do come back to us for a clarification, since I have retrieved the codes on my cars hundreds of times its unlikely that it was something I was doing wrong!

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OK Mike. I understand what to do now. Thanks also for teaching me not to start new posts, I see that it would be hard to follow for someone else looking for help with same problem. I have rodded out the EGR tubes and cleaned everything with 02 safe spray as you directed me a few weeks back. I also wasted a few tooth brushes scrubbing out the intake. Monday I will check codes first then remove battery cables and clean them and I see this will also re-learn system. Then I will check codes again. I use this note book for work during the day. I'm with a large construction equipment rental house ware I have a shop ware I work alone repairing Hydraulic demolition equipment . I will try and post my findings as soon as possible since this travels with me. Thanks. Talk to ya later. Matt

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Some more info on this was given to me this Monday AM at work. My service manager asked me about engine running temps of car. He said they are very important to this system. He asked if my fans have ever gone on. I told him not in the two months I have the car. Also I monitor the temps all the time, they are always between 203 - 208F. and sometimes 210 but when I see 210 it drops down right away again to 205 range. Is this to cold? Can it be messing up the computer? What should temps be on this 93 Seville, 4.9L?? He mentioned something about MAP sensor and I should check vacume line and wires to it . I went into the computer code read out system before work today. It is confusing at this point. I will try to figure it out lunch time today for the codes. So far I saw one thing that bothered me. I saw " NO PCM CODES". Maybe it means nothing, I will try again later.

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Good Morning Mike. I did not expect to see you are here . I will play with the system at 9:45 ( coffee break ). I will try to figure out how to read the codes, it was pretty confusing as to what button to push to pick a catagory and then what button to use to go through the catagory. At least I was able to get into the computer, thats a start. Thanks.

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Good News! A fellow I work with used to work for Brogan Cadillac just gave me this little Booklet for my year car that shows the Diagnostic System walk through. He is a road guy and wont have time to check it for me but now I have something more to use. More info later.

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I can not get the guy who gave me the Diag book to ask if the engine has to be on or off, or what position the key should be in. Any ideas???

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OK, My hands are frozen but I wanted to get this on as soon as possible. The codes are like this= PO52 History - PO98 History - 1022 History - 1039 Current History - 1052 History. No ACP Codes No SIR Codes. I also went through Parameter #s PD01 to PD99 and wrote them all down and used the book for the range check. All of them are in range. What should fuel pressure be? I will try and get a guage and test that as soon as I can. Thanks. Matt

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Fuel pressure should be about 45 or so, connect a guage and if you can watch it when the problems start it would be great. If you can get one with a long hose on it tape it to your windshield. This could be fuel pump also we have seen a few people have problems when the pump gets hot. I will check the codes later, Mike

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Unable to do fuel pressure check. I see no tap to hook up guage. Problem has not been to severe last few days. Hesitation was only slight then shut off engine and restarted and all went away. Just put in full tank again of Mobil Hi-Test this Am. Ran good all way to work. Wondering now if problem is fuel quality related. Time will tell.

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Unable to do fuel pressure check. I see no tap to hook up guage. Problem has not been to severe last few days. Hesitation was only slight then shut off engine and restarted and all went away. Just put in full tank again of Mobil Hi-Test this Am. Ran good all way to work. Wondering now if problem is fuel quality related. Time will tell.

Check your fuel rail carefully you will find a schrader valve, Mike

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Also I monitor the temps all the time, they are always between 203 - 208F. and sometimes 210 but when I see 210 it drops down right away again to 205 range.

Thats exactly how my 92 eldos temps act, just to verify your temps are correct, when it drops down like that, that is when the fans come on.

-dave B)

Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k

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I have only had the car a short time. I have not heard the fans come on yet. It has been cold yet, when it warms up I will see Im sure. Your pic is great. You have a fine looking machine. I just joined " photobucket" in hopes of being able to post a large size pic of My ride. It is not working out though. I'm still stuck on posting a good size pic.

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This is all to find rough idle problem and hesitation wile on hi way. Note= changed MAP sensor and EGR valve. DID a fuel pressure test today. It is 35 to 37 lbs at idle and about 46 lbs wile driving under excelaeration. Drove for 40 min till problem happened and there was no change in fuel pressure readings. Must be something else. Thanks....

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I don't want you to parts replace but here are a few things that I would consider.

Your fuel pump seems fine so you can eliminate it, have you changed the fuel filter?

It did not happen for 40 minutes so I would focus on the PCM, ignition module and coils. Furthermore, you said that you once fixed it by restarting it. If it was an overheating problem, its unlikely that restarting it right away would remedy the problem.

Some else here just had intemittant problems and it turned out to be the PCM.

A vacuum leak would not 'get better' or take 40 minutes to act up.

Your plugs and ignition wires would not cause an intermittant problem or take 40 minutes to act up..

It's possible that this problem is caused by a bad coil, that acts up when it over heats, but I doubt that it would be cured by restarting.

Since someone else just had this on a 92 I am thinking PCM problem, find and expose the PCM, and while the car is running tap on it with a solid object (like a hammer handle, TAP!) and vibrate the wire harnesses going into it and see if the engine idle acts up

Lets try to stop you from buying parts! I will look up the codes

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Mike that was very good info. I understand each thing you analized about the problem. It's all helping me to understand better the way you are seeing things. I know what to do next. I know two places ware the PCM may be. I wish I were on vacation so I could spend a few days without interuption on his issue, but I have to pay the bills. I will be back soon with more results. THANKS again. Matt

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