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Ok so here is my problem everyone.

I have a 1991 Eldorado touring coupe. Recently after driving I stopped to get gas, attempted to start the car and nothing. After trying to start it the in car diagnostic system said the battery was at 11.9. I left, and came back after 40 minutes and it started right up, and the battery read normal again.

 Now when ever I drive it and turn it off i have to wait at least 45 minutes before starting it up, or it wont start. Everything else inside the car works, stereo, subs, windows etc. Needless to say this is extremely inconvenient, especially with kids in the car.

The only code that pops up is E046, left to right fuel imbalance (paraphrased). It come on intermittently, and did not come on the first time this happened. 

I also notice a ticking noise from the cap and rotor area, so im thinking of replacing that. Can a bad cap and rotor cause that?

Just for a background I recently got all motor mounts replaced, and a new fuel pump. When they put the new mounts on they split the hose that connect to the ac (r12). I had them remove it and repair it, and all this started while the hose was removed.They fixed it and put it back on but forgot to plug the compressor back up. I also had to tighten clamps on a fuel line in the back to stop it from leaking fuel.

 

I am new to all this but absolutely love my Eldo, and plan to never get rid of it. I am also a working man who only knows a small amount about cars. Please help me guys so I dont blow my savings dealing with these crooked mechanics in my area.

 

 

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When you say nothing, do you mean you turn the key and the starter does not crank?

When this happens do you get ANY messages, related to security?  The only code is E046?

Please answer these questions, no crank vs crank makes a difference

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Sounds like the ignition module is getting hot if it is a crank-no-start condition...

If it isn't cranking/turning over refer to what barczy01 suggested.

The ticking in the distributor area could be a worn distributor shaft, not common but it can happen...

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Thanks everyone.

Ok so it cranks sometimes, and other times not a thing. It usually only cranks if on the next try it starts up. I have cleaned the battery terminals, and didnt notice corroded wires. BUT NOW when looking at the driver info center I noticed that it says starter disabled, due to anti theft system. This is the first time that has popped up. It tells me to wait 3 minutes, but nothing happens after the 3 mins has passed. I have an after market system so  am not sure why the stock anti theft is giving me trouble. Could all this be caused by the anti theft system?

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Your key has a resistor in it, clean the key with WD40.  Spray the key with WD40 and stick it into the ignition switch repeatedly.  You are trying to transfer some of the WD40 to clean the ignition switch contacts.  See if that helps.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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Double post

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

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Ok so this morning it would not start even after sitting. The security alert kept coming up. So i did some research and found out that these VAT systems are notorious for doing this. Apparently you have to bypass the security system by disconnecting the connector to the system and soldering the other wires together. I will attach some links and videos explaining what I mean. The thing is I couldn't get to any resistors, so I used my spare key with the resistor on it. Basically just exposed a little more wire in the connector, and shaved down the key a little bit, and then put it in the connector so that the wires were touching the resistors. Electric taped it up and bingo it started up.We will see how it goes.

 

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We first wanted to try and get your key to communicate before bypassing the system. Now, with a slide hammer, I steal your car.   I personally dont go in for heart bypass when an antacid will do.  If you could not get the key to communicate we would have taken this toward the resistor trick.  You can search the archives here to find out more.  

Buy the correct resistor by measuring your key with an ohm meter then wiring in the correct resistor.

Buy the correct value resistor at digikey, mouser or even radio shack online.  Too bad you destroyed a key, thankfully blanks are available but it looks like you will never need them.  

By the way aftermarket security systems are problematic.

This chart may help

vatsresistancetable_52efc5aa75d4545f78388f1c256e5962ffddd63f.jpg

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I definitely hear you, but I could not find anywhere with resisters to match the ohms on the key. The good thing is I didn't really destroy anything, I only shaved the base of the key, and the connectors are still intact. So if I ever want to repair the factory system I can. I needed to get to work so this was the best option available, besides my after market security is pretty legit, so I'm still protected from theives.

Thanks for the chart, I'm definitely going to go ahead and get some resistors and do a more permanent job

Edited by 91 Eldo TC
forgot to say something.
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We used to have a guru here, he was an engineer on the 4.9 and Northstar powertrain team.  He did not like aftermarket alarm systems and constantly inquired about their existence when a member had an ignition/starting/security problem.  So keep that in mind, I personally would NEVER install an aftermarket alarm.  Just a heads up.  Let us know how its going

As I noted, measure the resistance of your key with an ohm meter.  If you don't have an ohm meter, check ace hardware they sell those keys and should be able to give you the value.  Buy a resistor with a tolerance that keeps it within the allowable range.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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On 6/17/2019 at 10:13 AM, BodybyFisher said:

We used to have a guru here, he was an engineer on the 4.9 and Northstar powertrain team.  He did not like aftermarket alarm systems and constantly inquired about their existence when a member had an ignition/starting/security problem.  So keep that in mind, I personally would NEVER install an aftermarket alarm.  Just a heads up.  Let us know how its going

As I noted, measure the resistance of your key with an ohm meter.  If you don't have an ohm meter, check ace hardware they sell those keys and should be able to give you the value.  Buy a resistor with a tolerance that keeps it within the allowable range.

I have definitely heard the same from others, hopefully my system doesn't cause any problems. I will definitely keep everyone posted. I also noticed that the battery in stripped on the inside (side terminal).  The other day the the she didn't start until i opened the hood and resucures the cable to the battery. I wonder if that is what was causing a lot of this. Since the recent bypass of the vats, cleaning of the throttle-body, and making sure my cables are secure, that E046 code never came back.

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Sounds like you are working the bugs out.

If you look into the throttle body you will see 2 pipes, clean those out the next time you pull off the egr valve.  Do a search here for more on that.  That will eliminate an E048 EGR pindle position code if you ever see it.  Search E048 here in the archives.

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1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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May not help here but I know very well how commonly the wires to the ignition break for the vats.

The flexing over time causes them to break in half and voila no start.

Sadly I see that more than the key itself. 

But by this point I guess I have seen a little bit of everything.

If you cannot find a resistance value close to yours you should see if your local dealer still has the code from the vin.

If you have a spare ignition key I would compare the values between the 2.

Glad to hear you are up and running.

I cut the wires at the plug under the column, Then I splice a resistor inline that matches the value of the key. Voila problem forever solved.

If someone really wants to steal my car they wouldn't even need a key. lol

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Ok so I drove for about 45 minutes stopped and it would not start again. Inlet it sit about 45 minutes and viola it started. I tried to reposition the battery wires like I usually do but this time it didn't work. Someone suggested vaporlock. They said that when I had the motor mounts on, there is a possibility that the fuel lines were moved to a position closer to the engine. Any one have experience with vaporlock in fuel injected engines?

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23 minutes ago, 91 Eldo TC said:

Ok so I drove for about 45 minutes stopped and it would not start again. Inlet it sit about 45 minutes and viola it started. I tried to reposition the battery wires like I usually do but this time it didn't work. Someone suggested vaporlock. They said that when I had the motor mounts on, there is a possibility that the fuel lines were moved to a position closer to the engine. Any one have experience with vaporlock in fuel injected engines?

Rare, buy a fuel pressure tester and the next time this happens check fuel pressure.

Do you smell fuel? This could be a bad fuel pressure regulator.  They especially act up when the engine is hot.  Locate yours there should be a vacuum hose attached to it, idle the engine, put your finger about an inch away from the regulator nipple, rev engine, any fuel spitting at all replace it

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I do smell fuel. At one point i saw fuel leaking from the fuel line in the rear near th fuel pump. I tightened the clamps and it seemed to stop, but I still smell it. Im gonna try to find the regulator but the service Manuel I have is super vague so it might take me some time.

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The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the fuel rail.  Ill post a photo in the morning

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

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So i changed the cap and rotor, and they DEFINITELY needed it! Both the cap and rotor were burned out. The ticking didn't go all the way away, but for the most part it did. The ignition coil looked a bit worn so I may wind up changing that as well. Weird thing after finishing the job, the battery drained and died, had to recharge it and everything was fine. Going to change out the battery today.

 

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Here is a description and location of the fuel pressure regulator

20190624_105859.jpg

20190624_105910.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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14 hours ago, 91 Eldo TC said:

So i changed the cap and rotor, and they DEFINITELY needed it! Both the cap and rotor were burned out. The ticking didn't go all the way away, but for the most part it did. The ignition coil looked a bit worn so I may wind up changing that as well. Weird thing after finishing the job, the battery drained and died, had to recharge it and everything was fine. Going to change out the battery today.

 

Did you leave the doors or trunk open during the job?

Grab the distributor rotor and check for looseness side to side.  

Coils don't look worn, they either spark or not I wouldn't waste money parts replacing.  

Check the fuel pressure regulator for spitting fuel when engine is revved with the vacuum hose off

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

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BBF......It is my understanding that you should never pull the vac. line off a GM FPR

while the engine is running.   You should pull vac line after running the engine and check for wetness

with fuel?

 

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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1 hour ago, sonjaab said:

BBF......It is my understanding that you should never pull the vac. line off a GM FPR

while the engine is running.   You should pull vac line after running the engine and check for wetness

with fuel?

 

I learned this from the guru about 1995 here.  We have been using and recommending this technique for as long as I can remember.  Ill bet if you search the archives you will find the technique recommended repeatedly.  When the regulator diaphram leaks fuel it is pulled directly into the intake through the vacuum hose.  I typically hold a white index card in front of the regulator nipple and rev the engine and you will see it spit fuel.  

This is the first I have ever heard that.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Plenty of warning on this on the GM truck and camaro/bird forums when diagnosin' a

hard hot start or rich idle, and bad FPR problem.  Also removal of  the "beauty cover" on a running engine.

Edited by sonjaab

93 DeVille-13 Chevy Impala

72 GTO - 77 Triumph Bonneville

84 Z-28

Syracuse NY

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