jinxed45 Posted March 8, 2005 Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 What's the likely problem here? Nothing was touched except the brakes and rotors.. likely he altered the sensor? Also, is there a way to take the "TRUNK OPEN" warning off when I start my Caddy? 1997 Cadillac Eldorado ETC 120k THANKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted March 8, 2005 Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 Most likely he removed and forgot to reinstall the wheel speed sensor plug behind the hub or unknowingly knocked it loose. Check to be sure they are all plugged in tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted March 8, 2005 Report Share Posted March 8, 2005 If he was changing the brakes, he did probably unplug the wheel sensor. See what codes you have stored. I recently had the same problem (out of the blue) and it turned out to be my ignition switch. Check your's for wear at the contacts. BTW, before you go messing with the ignition switch, disconnect the neg battery cable so you don't lose you key code programming! James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhman Posted March 9, 2005 Report Share Posted March 9, 2005 I had similar ploblem, but mine was that the mechanic did not put back the wires to there original positions after replasing the struts and caused them to wind over the drive shaft and got damaged. But, I suggest that you check the codes first to know which side is disconnected, remove the wheel and check the connectors. Note that both the wheel sensor connector and the brake sensore connector look very similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYES Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 You do not have to unplug the wheel sensor for a simple brake job, i.e., pads and resurface rotors, but check anyway. This may sound crazy, but disconnect the battery for ten seconds and then see what happens. I've had this happen to me many times, and the trick has worked every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calif phil Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Sometimes when you push the pistons back into the caliper bore to make room for the new pads it can cause contaminated brake fluid back up into the ABS pump/module and can plug it up. You should clamp the brake lines shut and open the bleed nipple when pushing the caliper back in on ABS cars. But like the others have said a disconnected wire or even running the car on the hoist with the two front wheels turning and the rear wheels not moving can set a code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSdriver Posted March 11, 2005 Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 Awhile ago, the Traction Control Disabled message started appearing and the ABS light turned on at the same time, after driving for a couple of minutes. Then, when I needed a new battery a few weeks ago I noticed the terminals were corroded, even though they were tight. I had a new battery installed, with new terminals. I had this done at a garage since it's blasted cold around here this time of year. Since then, no traction control disabled message or ABS light had appeared. Today, I picked the car up after having new front struts and springs installed. The Traction Control Disabled message and ABS light appeared. I checked the battery terminals and one was loose enough to move by hand. This must have been the one they disconnected when they worked on the car. I got the terminals tightened and the error message and ABS light did not show up again. STSdriver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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