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Replacing Front 5 1/4 Speakers


Scotty

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I am disappointed that no one picked up on my plate number...see the rear view above

"Activate inertial dampeners ensign and engage warp engines on my mark"

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"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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I ended up buying these 6 x 9's the other ones were discontinued

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_287.html

Frequency Response : 25 Hz - 22 kHz ; (+/- 3 dB): 50 Hz - 20 kHz

Power Handling : 100 watts ; Maximum: 200 watts

I believe the factory rear 6x9 speakers are rated at 10 Ohms. Most replacement speakers are 4 Ohms.

I think your new rear speakers may cause a fade imbalance problem. I'll be interested in how they work. Please inform us after your install.

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Scotty, Cerwin Vega are good quality speakers, made in Calfornia. I am a big fan of butt kicking stereo equipment, especially in the home. I have never been big on aftermarket car stereos, considering that I have to Bose system in my Caddy, and that is more than enough for me. I've seen folks with 6 grand in a car stereo, and I point out that I have 3 grand in my home that blows them away by far!

I am curious as to what you think of Cerwins in a car. My only use of them is two LS-15's in my house. What is not said here is that brands of speakers preach to certain types of music, just like cars do to certain folks who drive them. Cerwin Vega speakers are clearly "rock-n-roll" types, and are tailored to this music genre. My home music system employs two Cerwins, two Bose 601's, two Advents, and a JBL. All hooked up to the appropriate channels and placed where they can do the most good. Just like cars, choose a speaker suited to your tastes and requirements. An analogy of Cerwins to cars. Cerwins are like old grocery getter cars. Fast, but not fancy, a good bang for the buck, and underrated! If I had to choose just two of my speakers to listen to the Caddy theme, by Led Zeppelin, it would be the Cerwins, no questions asked. Rock n Roll!

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Scotty,

A very fine, all suited up, classy Caddy!

Is that a gold, custom grill I glimpsed? B)

I have seen those fancy ragtops rise up from the "air lift" at speed.

Are you certain the ragtop's rear beading didn't suffer a blow out on some WOT? :P

Again, an outstanding example of a '96 Deville. :)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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I ended up buying these 6 x 9's the other ones were discontinued

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_287.html

Frequency Response : 25 Hz - 22 kHz ; (+/- 3 dB): 50 Hz - 20 kHz

Power Handling : 100 watts ; Maximum: 200 watts

I believe the factory rear 6x9 speakers are rated at 10 Ohms. Most replacement speakers are 4 Ohms.

I think your new rear speakers may cause a fade imbalance problem. I'll be interested in how they work. Please inform us after your install.

You know I was concerned about the ohm problem. I am replacing both the front and rears with Cerwin Vega, 5 1/4 in the front and 6 x 9 in the back. So what happens, if the OEM is 10 ohm and I put in 4 ohm, do I blow the amp? This has always confused me.. I don't have the BOSE system, Mike

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Scotty, Cerwin Vega are good quality speakers, made in Calfornia. I am a big fan of butt kicking stereo equipment, especially in the home. I have never been big on aftermarket car stereos, considering that I have to Bose system in my Caddy, and that is more than enough for me. I've seen folks with 6 grand in a car stereo, and I point out that I have 3 grand in my home that blows them away by far!

I am curious as to what you think of Cerwins in a car. My only use of them is two LS-15's in my house. What is not said here is that brands of speakers preach to certain types of music, just like cars do to certain folks who drive them. Cerwin Vega speakers are clearly "rock-n-roll" types, and are tailored to this music genre. My home music system employs two Cerwins, two Bose 601's, two Advents, and a JBL. All hooked up to the appropriate channels and placed where they can do the most good. Just like cars, choose a speaker suited to your tastes and requirements. An analogy of Cerwins to cars. Cerwins are like old grocery getter cars. Fast, but not fancy, a good bang for the buck, and underrated! If I had to choose just two of my speakers to listen to the Caddy theme, by Led Zeppelin, it would be the Cerwins, no questions asked. Rock n Roll!

STYES, I am an audio nut also, I just have things that are higher on the list..LOL. I have B&W DM2000 speakers, Hafler amp and preamp, Nak cassette deck, Thorens turntable and a Proton tuner with shotz tuner.

I am looking for clean sound when the speakers are loud in my car, I am sure these will be tilted a little toward the boomy side, but I can always drop the bass. The OEM speakers are mediocre at best. I am hoping to improve the direction of the front tweeters with the CV separates, with a mount that will tilt them up toward the front passengers ears.

I will report back my results, gc_caddy has made me a little nervous with the impedance issue... Mike

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Scotty,

A very fine, all suited up, classy Caddy! 

Is that a gold, custom grill I glimpsed? B)

I have seen those fancy ragtops rise up from the "air lift" at speed.

Are you certain the ragtop's rear beading didn't suffer a blow out on some WOT? :P

Again, an outstanding example of a '96 Deville.    :)

Thanks, I really like the windows tinted, it really makes the car look cool, and I like the additional privacy the tint provides, I was feeling like a gold fish in this boat..LOL.

The GOLD GRILL, its on my list to pull that grill, if it has not damaged the hood paint, I am going to offer to trade it with someone who has the Concours grill or find a Concours grill, I like the Cadillac Crest on the grill. The car has too much of a Boca Raton, Florida look to it...

The rear beading on this car is only decorative, my trim detail shop just removed the old one and replaced it with a new one, the old one was flapping in the wind and hanging loose.

As far as air-lift goes, I have experienced that first hand on my 91 Seville. I didn't know what that the rattling was on the roof, well the front rivets got loose, the wind caught it, and tore the entire shell of the top of the car and it hit a car behind me at 65 mph.... :unsure: The next time I hear rattling, I will investigate it more closely, :lol: That signalled the end to my 91 as it would have cost $2200 to replace the shell :blink:

This top is a factory top (not aftermarket as my 91 was), and it attaches much better than my 91 did. I just bought some Wolfsteins RAGGTOPP cleaner protectant from my trim guy and can't wait to clean it up and protect it. This stuff causes water to bead off, and not soak into the top as is happening right now... My top has lost its ability to shed water. Check it out here: http://www.autogeek.net/rapr.html If water can penetrate the top, it rots the underlayment.

Thanks for complimenting my car! Its running incredible the more I work on it! Mike

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"You know I was concerned about the ohm problem. I am replacing both the front and rears with Cerwin Vega, 5 1/4 in the front and 6 x 9 in the back. So what happens, if the OEM is 10 ohm and I put in 4 ohm, do I blow the amp? This has always confused me.. I don't have the BOSE system, Mike"

Mike:

Nothing disasterous will happen when you replace a 10 ohm impedance speaker with a 4 ohm impedance speaker, or vice-versa.

You "might" notice a slight loss of volume at the highest volume levels; the impedance mis-match affects power transfer. But I'm betting you don't operate your system at the highest volume level very often, if ever.

The technical explanation would be like answering a question such as 'what time is it?' by telling the person how to build a clock. I might be able to take you there, but it will be the mother of all Off Topic discussions.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks Jim, I feel better, the speakers should be here tomorrow, I will pull my door panels and install them by the weekend. I am looking to improve the firing direction / spread of the tweeter, it fires at my KNEE right now.. :blink::lol: Thanks for the info, Mike

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8 OHMS VS 4 OHMS. Imagine your amp is a gallon container of water. The 8 OHM load would be like a .4 Dia. pipe. The 4 OHM load would be like a .8 dia. pipe. The 4 OHM load WILL drain your amp faster than an 8 OHM load. Going to a 4 OHM speaker, in place of a factory 10 OHM speaker, WILL test your out-put transistors, maybe to the point of failure. Keep the volume at a "Reasonable" level.

rek

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8 OHMS VS 4 OHMS. Imagine your amp is a gallon container of water. The 8 OHM load would be like a .4 Dia. pipe. The 4 OHM load would be like a .8 dia. pipe. The 4 OHM load WILL drain your amp faster than an 8 OHM load. Going to a 4 OHM speaker, in place of a factory 10 OHM speaker, WILL test your out-put transistors, maybe to the point of failure. Keep the volume at a "Reasonable" level.

So if I hear 'clipping' I should reduce the volume, right? From my audiophile days an amp clips when its unable to provide suffient power to the speakers, potentially damaging the speakers. On a scope, the sinewave is 'clipped'. But will my AMP overheat providing a reasonable level of sound? I should get a reasonable level of sound shouldn't I?

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So if I were to replace my front 5 1/4 speaker what kind of work are we looking at? Would I have to cut any wires or run new wires to the amp? I think I have a blown speaker. Install charges are out the roof, so I figured I should try Myself and see what happens. What do you think! Any suggestions before I buy a set and try to follow poor directions form the insallation instructions!

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So if I were to replace my front 5 1/4 speaker what kind of work are we looking at? Would I have to cut any wires or run new wires to the amp? I think I have a blown speaker. Install charges are out the roof, so I figured I should try Myself and see what happens. What do you think! Any suggestions before I buy a set and try to follow poor directions form the insallation instructions!

Bob I am going to do this job this week, it does not appear to be difficult at all. I will report back how this job goes, I am expecting the 5 1/4 speakers today. Do you have the manual? Mike

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Yes, i do have the manual! What purpose will the manual hold during the installation of the speakers?

It will show you how to get the door panels off, a trick that I never enjoy. On my car the woofer and tweeter are separate, I assume that the woofer will fit right in since Cerwin Vega stated that they are designed for easy OEM installation.

The tweeter may be a little more work for me, I plan to point them more upward in toward my ears so I may have to fabricate something to accomplish that. The dremel makes this easy.

If you are concerned about hook up there usually only two wires (+) and (-), plus the tweeter crossover which will be explained in the speaker materials, hooking them up should be straight forward. Mike

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That sounds simple enough. Do you need to run or cut any speaker wires? Why do you need to take off the door panel? In my car there is just a mesh cover that hides the current speaker. I guess the instructions will give me most of my answers when I am ready for install. Thanks for the quick responses Scotty, I really appreciate it. :)

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So if I hear 'clipping' I should reduce the volume, right? From my audiophile days an amp clips when its unable to provide suffient power to the speakers, potentially damaging the speakers. On a scope, the sinewave is 'clipped'. But will my AMP overheat providing a reasonable level of sound? I should get a reasonable level of sound shouldn't I?

REK is correct, a lower impendance speaker will cause the amplifier to run at a higher power level. I think it is difficult for anyone to say what the outcome will be without knowing the amplifier capabiilities and/or specifications. You could overdrive it at higher volumes levels, and the power amplifier may or may not handle it depending upon its/stability/quality. Most 'quality' aftermarket power amplifiers will state the lowest impedence they drive safely.

One thing for sure, the power transistors will be the first thing to "fry".

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Willie Hank what other cars with v8's do u have besides the camaro and the cadillac? :lol:

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Defending Northstar perf a qtr mile at a time!!!!

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That sounds simple enough. Do you need to run or cut any speaker wires? Why do you need to take off the door panel? In my car there is just a mesh cover that hides the current speaker. I guess the instructions will give me most of my answers when I am ready for install. Thanks for the quick responses Scotty, I really appreciate it. :)

I will take photos and show you how it goes, I was in the junk yard the other day and the speaker is part of the door on my car, and the panel comes off, Mike

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So if I hear 'clipping' I should reduce the volume, right? From my audiophile days an amp clips when its unable to provide suffient power to the speakers, potentially damaging the speakers. On a scope, the sinewave is 'clipped'.  But will my AMP overheat providing a reasonable level of sound?  I should get a reasonable level of sound shouldn't I?

REK is correct, a lower impendance speaker will cause the amplifier to run at a higher power level. I think it is difficult for anyone to say what the outcome will be without knowing the amplifier capabiilities and/or specifications. You could overdrive it at higher volumes levels, and the power amplifier may or may not handle it depending upon its/stability/quality. Most 'quality' aftermarket power amplifiers will state the lowest impedence they drive safely.

One thing for sure, the power transistors will be the first thing to "fry".

Its lucky I have a second head unit then! LOL....

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Willie Hank what other cars with v8's do u have besides the camaro and the cadillac? :lol:

Actually my neighbor now has my beloved STS after my wife drove it through high water and blew a hole in the No. 8 piston (nearest the intake).

I bought her an '04 Hemi Durango, and assumed her '96 Chevy Express conversion van with a 305 Vortec.

The Camaro SS is one of two pleasure cars. The other is a '73 Mustang convertible 351C with 4-bbl heads. The stereo I installed in it is comprised of (3) MTX amps totaling 700 watts RMS at .02% THD, (2) 10" Bazooka passive subwoofers, (3) sets of Infinity speakers in the front/back, an MTX cross-over, and a 1/2 farad capacitor, not to mention the upgrade to a 120 amp starter and two batteries. I just had it out this weekend, .....I need to fix the 'reverb' I'm getting from my back chrome bumper....

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Scotty, you will not hear the "booming" affect from Cerwin Vegas unless you listen to music that operates within such low end frequencies. I suspect that door speakers from amybody, including Cerwin, do not have the extreme low range that you are referring to. But I am curious to hear what you have to say about them.

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