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Headgaskets due for the 2004 Deville


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My wife called me yesterday afternoon and said the '04 Deville was running one to two segments hotter than the normal midpoint mark.  The car has just over 100,300 miles on it - I bought it almost a year ago and 11,000+ miles ago.

When I got home from work, I removed the surge tank cap in order to test the purge line flow and smelled exhaust.  The purge line is flowing, the fans are coming on.  I knew it was the headgasket(s) or loose/pulled bolts but got the tester from Autozone.  The fluid turned yellow fairly quickly and with the engine idling, I could see and smell exhaust from the surge tank.

This caught me by surprise as the coarse head bolts were supposed to have solved the issue.

I may try to lift the body off the powertrain with an engine hoist this time vs. pulling the engine from the top.  My concern is the lack of depth in my garage and the cold temps to do the actual powertrain removal.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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M11 x 2.0. 

You need kit J-42385-2030. It is available as a rental kit. 

http://ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html

There are different versions of the 2030 kits. There are both Kent Moore and Time-Sert versions. 

Both kits use identical Time-Sert tooling. 

The KM and Time-Sert kits are configured differently. 

The KM kits also require tools from the KM version J-42385-300 kit. 

The KM rental kits include the required tools from the J-42385-300 kit. 

The KM and Time-Sert plastic tool cases are different.

With the rental kit, repairs can be done for around $200 or less depending on how many inserts you plan on doing. 

The inserts are easy to get on Amazon. Part # 112030. Maybe around $3.90 each. 

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2 hours ago, barczy01 said:

The 11 x 2.0 head bolts loosen up after time :( common problem

From what I've read, the threads in the block are usually OK, unlike the earlier fine thread pitch bolts on the 2003 and earlier.  Is it necessary to install Timeserts in this generation of engine?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The older Northstar cars had an alternate method of engine removal from the top.  I only have a 2005 shop manual and it only covers dropping the engine out the bottom.  I don't have a hoist but I was thinking about lifting the front of the car with an engine crane in order to clear the powertrain.  I seem to recall someone on this board had done it that way several years back but can't find it in the archives.

Once the powertrain is out, I would need to find a way to move the car forward in order to close the garage door.

My fear is getting the car torn down and not being able to remove the powertrain.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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@KHE That was me.

I pulled them out the top. The trouble is access to the lower brackets and exhaust etc.. requires some swivel sockets and access without a hoist would be a problem, not impossible but problematic.

If you want to PM me I can give you my contact # easier to explain over the phone.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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You can pull them out of the top but why go through the hassle when you know someone who can do the job for you in 4-5 days time. Your going to have to pull the front end of the car apart i.e. radiator, condenser. I can do the job for you Kent it's really not a big deal. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/22/2017 at 3:08 PM, KHE said:

The older Northstar cars had an alternate method of engine removal from the top.  I only have a 2005 shop manual and it only covers dropping the engine out the bottom.  I don't have a hoist but I was thinking about lifting the front of the car with an engine crane in order to clear the powertrain.  I seem to recall someone on this board had done it that way several years back but can't find it in the archives.

Once the powertrain is out, I would need to find a way to move the car forward in order to close the garage door.

My fear is getting the car torn down and not being able to remove the powertrain.

Kevin,

I can help you out if you want. I'm in West Mi. also (Rockford) I have a 2 post lift in my shop and can pull the engine for you, disassemble it and drill and thread the block for a set of studs from Northstar Performance or you can take take the engine and Timesert it yourself if you prefer, but I've only used the NSP studs. I pull the engines out the top so I can just roll the car out of the shop while working on the engine if needed but if you're just doing the head gaskets it could stay in the shop since that could be done in a day or two. I have all the special tools for locking the cams in place, disassembling the heads if needed, rear main seal installation tool, etc. If you wanted to go with the NSP studs the only thing I don't have is the newer 2 mm thread pitch bolts for the stud drill and tap fixture but Jake should include them with the stud kit. 

PM if your interested.

Steve

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