Flasher relay

[OldCadTech]

Looks like your'e going to need to do some wiring checks. How comfortable are you with that?

Do you have or have access to a DVOM or a test light?

[OldCadTech]

Do you know if the vehicle has ever been in an accident? Front end damage, if any would explain a lot.

 

[Cadillac Jim]

28 minutes ago, Will said:

Yes also send me the view of the connector end wire table for c1. Ill see if i can trace it wnd to end

Here is C1 to the underhood fuse block:

2006_DTS_UnderhoodFuses_C1_Data.pdf

[Cadillac Jim]

21 minutes ago, OldCadTech said:

Do you know if the vehicle has ever been in an accident? Front end damage, if any would explain a lot.

That, or water damage, occurred to me.  A CarFAX would tell the tale.  But a complete list of Bnnnn codes, with the CURRENT ones flagged, would probably be all we need to find two or three problems and get Will back on the road with everything working.

The driving lights, on in the daytime, are probably the high beams at part power, if that's possible with HID.  I don't see a way to get part power in the schematic, but that's the way driving lights work with incandescent headlights.  That would explain why Will's high beams, or the left one, came on in the daytime.

@Will, you might think of getting a used factory shop manual for your car on eBay.  We can get you through this, but if you plan on keeping the car you will need the FSM to save you tons of time and aggravation in the future.

Whenever you find it convenient to have Autozone or a similar outfit read your OBD codes, list them here.  If they don't give you the interpretation, that's OK, just post them here and we will provide the interpretation.

[OldCadTech]

^^^^^^^^^^ WHAT HE SAID ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Looks like they all use the C-1 connector. @Cadillac Jim is that a multi connector block?

 

[Cadillac Jim]

1 minute ago, OldCadTech said:

^^^^^^^^^^ WHAT HE SAID ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Looks like they all use the C-1 connector. @Cadillac Jim is that a multi connector block?

The underhood fuse block provides power to everything in the car except the starter armature and the alternator armature.  There are three connectors:  C1, black with 22 terminals, C2, black, with 30 terminals, and C3, black, with 50 terminals.  Also, there is a pad for the battery cable to bolt onto it.  I don't know the provision for ground, if any.

[OldCadTech]

Okay, thanks I know the U/hood fuse block in the 98 was looonngg and was a real PITA to move out of the way when doing the P/Steering pump. If that is the only connector and wasn't too much of a PITA I would do the wiring checks from the connector.

[Will]

Yes it had wrecked on the passenger side. Got swiped by a truck and trailer air bags deployed. Windshield cracked the trailer dug deep down into the fender all the way to the end of the rear passenger side door. Doors have been replaced as well as fender. Looks good.

[Cadillac Jim]

I think that the thing to do is to look at the high beam solenoid first, because if the fuse, wiring and ballast/bulb are all good, that's all that is left, and it seems to be a plug-in throwaway part, i.e. something that can wear out and is designed to be easily replaced.  If the solenoid is good, meaning if you trade it with the left one and the left brights come on but the right brights still do not, then check the wiring.  That's best done with a voltmeter.

@Will, if you don't know how to use a voltmeter, you can use a test light instead for checking the power to the headlight solenoid.  If you get your own FSM from eBay, there is a section on it on how to use a voltmeter to troubleshoot wiring problems.  For the most part, it's just like using a test light but you look at a needle swing on the meter or numbers on a display instead of a bulb lighting up, and a meter can check things a test light can't.

[Will]

I will get codes read tomorrow.  Thanks for all the help so far. Beautiful car. Lightning white....got to get her on the road. Everything else us perfect on this car. A guy just didnt want to take the time or the chance on her. Im not giving up on her

[Cadillac Jim]

4 minutes ago, Will said:

Yes it had wrecked on the passenger side. Got swiped by a truck and trailer air bags deployed. Windshield cracked the trailer dug deep down into the fender all the way to the end of the rear passenger side door. Doors have been replaced as well as fender. Looks good.

That would explain a couple of wires pulled out of connectors on the BCM.  This could also explain wiring harness damage on the right headlight circuits.  I haven't checked with the location of the underhood fuse block.

[Cadillac Jim]

1 minute ago, Will said:

I will get codes read tomorrow.  Thanks for all the help so far. Beautiful car. Lightning white....got to get her on the road. Everything else us perfect on this car. A guy just didnt want to take the time or the chance on her. Im not giving up on her

[Will]

Ok but what about these turn signals??? Have to have it inspected before road legal. Just bought it. Waiting on title now. 

[OldCadTech]

Turn signal wiring same place. I believe there is a bulkhead connector on the right side also. The fuse block is on the passenger side as well

 

[Will]

So this is something i could check myself?  The bcm. The bulk connector? 

[Cadillac Jim]

Find the 23-pin green connector on the BCM, C1, see if it is damaged, and check the wires by pulling gently on each one.  If it is damaged, or if any wires pull out of their spades, it needs to be repaired.  There are repair kits for the spades and replacement connectors.  Spades you should be able to get from an auto parts store, and repair kits, spades, and connectors from dealer-based online GM parts outlets like gmpartsdirect.com.

I already sent you the data on this connector HERE.

[Will]

Ok thanks

[Will]

I wasnt able to open the page

[Will]

So the bcm is in plain sight or is it hidden

[Will]

Ok so my high beams were on again when i turned the car on. Both of them so i kno the bulbs arent the issue. Its a rainy day with overcast so i guess its an automatic feature. But i cant turn them off or on manually from the multifunction switch. No illumination on the dash or anything.  Still nothing with the turn signals though....

[Logan]

Ok...grounds...

Turn signals....hazard switch....twilight sun load sensor....all use ground G300.....under carpet....under drivers seat. 

Headlights....ground G104.....mounted in engine compartment....on radiator support behind right head light....Same side of car that was damaged. 

[Cadillac Jim]

1 hour ago, Will said:

I wasnt able to open the page

If you download the file, it's a RTF file that can be opened in WordPad, Microsoft Word, or any other word processor.  But here it is as a picture of the connector and a PDF fille with the data and information on it.

Reminder:  This is on the BCM, it's C1, the green connector.

 

2006_DTS_BCM_C1_Data.pdf

[Cadillac Jim]

Here is a cutaway that shows the BCM:

Legend:

(1) is the BCM.  Note that all the connectors are on the bottom.  You should be able to get to them by removing the cover under the glove compartment.

(2) is labeled "I/P Trim" and seems to be the dashboard cover.  It's popped up in the drawing to show things from the angle of the drawing.  You shouldn't have to remove it.

(3) is "I/P Compartment Assembly" which is the glove compartment.  If you actually need to remove the BCM at some point later, you may want to take that out, but just to get to the connectors, it just tells you where it is relative to the big box as seen from under the dash.

[Will]

Thanks man ive looked at so many diagrams this past week i didnt kno what i was lookn at. I understand now. Thanks again

[Cadillac Jim]

Apparently you bought a car that had a three-panel fender bender and seems to have had the body repaired by a body man, but the car never had the dealer refresh that a body shop would have put the car through to fix the electrical and other "hidden damage" problems.  Or, he pulled some harness cables while he was working on the car and didn't know what to do about that.  Whatever, his loss is your gain.

But be patient with yourself.  If you're new to GM shop manuals and solving modern car electrical problems, it's an interesting thing to learn and a great accomplishment when you're done.  And, you have a new talent under your belt.  You can come back and help others out here on Caddyinfo.

Now that you are getting used to the FSM diagrams, you might think about getting your own from eBay.  They aren't expensive there and having your own on hand for as long as you drive the car is a great asset to ownership.  Whenever I get a car, I get a factory shop manual for it.

I looked on Amazon last week and they have a lot of simple voltmeters (actually they measure volts and ohms, check diodes, etc. too) for $12 to $25.  You can pay more but if you are new to electrical problem solving, I would start simple and buy what you need when you need it.  Later on, you will have a better idea of just what you really need.  And, it will be a long time before you need more than a simple meter.  The "special tool" voltmeter that the dealer techs use is just a simple multimeter.  Do a search on "multimeter" on Amazon to get a list.