Jump to content

Flasher relay


Will

Recommended Posts


  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The CHMSL is operated by a supply voltage from the BCM.  It shares a fuse in the rear fuse block with the back-up lights labeled CHMSL/BCK-UP.  It's possible that the stoplight switch or connections aren't working.  Do your other stop lights work?  The CHMSL in the schematic is a single LED but they are usually a bank of LEDs, and any of them out is a rare occurrence, particularly if they are inside the rear window and the assembly is not exposed to the elements.

If none of the stop lights work I would look at the stop light switch and its wiring.

At this point I'm convinced that there are scads of Bnnnn DTCs that we don't have.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not put too much emphasis on the non-working third brake light. 

That era of DTS third brake lamps have a extremely high failure rate. 

It should be noted that it is not working as a possible clue.....but don't get too hung up on it. 

Personally... I think they should go back to $2 light bulbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Logan said:

I would not put too much emphasis on the non-working third brake light. 

That era of DTS third brake lamps have a extremely high failure rate. 

It should be noted that it is not working as a possible clue.....but don't get too hung up on it. 

Personally... I think they should go back to $2 light bulbs.

I take it from Logan's point made here, that the CHMSL is on the trunk lid on this model, not inside the rear window.  Logan is a true authority on external lighting; note the links in his signature block.  Unless you need the CHMSL to work for State Inspection, you might consider letting it go for now.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Cadillac Jim Is the BCM located near the glove box or behind the back seat? 

The common denominator in all the problems is the BCM. @Will needs to access the BCM and make sure the connectors, especially the GN connector, is not loose or damaged.

Since the BCM controls the ground circuit I would pay close attention the that wire and its connector. I would do a drag test on all the female connectors at the BCM. I would also check the G104 ground and cable

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The BCM is under the dash on the passenger side, just to the right of the glove compartment as seen from the passenger seat.

If the connector is involved, the wires in row 3 of C1 (the green connector) are the ones with the turn signals and the hazard warning light wire.

My limited experience with wiring harness problems is that they tend to be wires pulled out by physical damage, usually inadvertent damage from other work, and show up as intermittent connections or loss of connection.  The problem is a wire pulled out of a connector and unnoticed, or simply pushed back into the connector by the guilty party.  They can be found by tugging on the wires to the connector one at a time; if one pulls out, well, there you are.  The repair is simple; the best one is a new terminal.  Never stop at the first wire you find, but check all of them.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Will said:

... I just bought the car for a very low price i couldn't pass. I was aware of the problems prior to but im determined to get it back rolling as a cadilac should

Usually when someone dumps a car for peanuts its because of something he doesn't want to deal with.  Electrical problems are a mystical problem for some people, often very bright people that you would trust to do brake work and internal engine work, but that for some reason just don't grok electrics.  To others, electrical problems are just another problem to solve and are taken in stride.  If electrical problems are why the car was available for a good price, you may have a really good find here, but be prepared for a bit of patience.  If you diagnose problems before buying parts, and the previous owner didn't do something really dumb like hook the battery up backwards and blew all the modules (it woudn't even start if someone did that), it shouldn't be expensive to get right.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Will said:

And yes my other brake lights work

@Loganis the expert on CHMSL assemblies, he rebuilds and sells replacements.  Trunk-mounted CHMSL assemblies tend to have eventual condensation and leaks that result in corrosion, and the simplest way to get a nice one where all the LEDs have the same brightness and such is to replace the old one.  When you get to the CHMSL, you need to check and see if it's getting voltage to the L-BL (light blue) wire when the brake pedal is pressed with the key on.  If so, check the BK (black) wire for a good ground.  If the volts are there and the ground is good and the CHMSL doesn't light, the CHMSL assembly is bad.

If you have a hearse package or commercial chassis, the CHMSL is from the coachwork company, not GM, but a light blue wire goes to the coachwork lighting connector.  If you have an export model, the CHMSL hot wire is YE/WH (yellow stripe on white).

But the CHMSL can wait for the turn signals.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, how about getting the codes read by a reader that gives us all the BCM codes?  You know that with inoperative turn signals, a dead CHMSL, and a dead hazard warning flasher that there are lots of BCM DTCs.  If we have them then we can steer Will to where the problems are being caused.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Cadillac Jim said:

Hey, how about getting the codes read by a reader that gives us all the BCM codes?  You know that with inoperative turn signals, a dead CHMSL, and a dead hazard warning flasher that there are lots of BCM DTCs.  If we have them then we can steer Will to where the problems are being caused.

 

45 minutes ago, Cadillac Jim said:

The BCM is under the dash on the passenger side, just to the right of the glove compartment as seen from the passenger seat.

If the connector is involved, the wires in row 3 of C1 (the green connector) are the ones with the turn signals and the hazard warning light wire.

My limited experience with wiring harness problems is that they tend to be wires pulled out by physical damage, usually inadvertent damage from other work, and show up as intermittent connections or loss of connection.  The problem is a wire pulled out of a connector and unnoticed, or simply pushed back into the connector by the guilty party.  They can be found by tugging on the wires to the connector one at a time; if one pulls out, well, there you are.  The repair is simple; the best one is a new terminal.  Never stop at the first wire you find, but check all of them.

@Cadillac Jim You are SPOT ON about the wiring and connectors

Yes, It would make things a LOT easier, to get the BCM codes.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a blog post on reading OBD codes.  Key phrase:  "AutoZone and most parts store chains will read your codes for free. All you have to do is ask."

https://www.thoughtco.com/translate-those-engine-codes-281948

I looked at the Pep Boys web site and they offer an OBD code reading service for free too:

https://www.pepboys.com/service/repair_services/engine_diagnostics?iCID=mega-menu_6-20-17_service_free-services_code-retrieval_service:repair-services:engine-diagnostics_text-link

If you have one of these guys handy, get the codes listed for you for free.  If you want to go forward yourself, don't buy the service that they offer to diagnose your car.  If they offer a diagnosis for a fixed small fee like $64, you can get that if you want - but be careful that you don't get led into losing control of the cost of repair.  Me, I would stop at the free OBD code list.  Make sure that they know that you want the BCM codes, the ones that read Bnnnn, where n is a numerical digit 0-9, not just the engine codes of the form Pnnnn.

The article recommends a dongle on the OBD connector that uses Bluetooth with a cell phone to make up your own code reader.  I've been doing this for years, so my setup is an OBD-to-USB cable and a laptop.  My favorite vendor of this is Scan Tool.net, the people that make the chips in other peoples scan tools:

https://www.scantool.net/

They can sell you the Bluetooth dongle and software for your cell phone.  Another DIY code reader that I found with a web search is

http://www.aldlcables.com/allinone.asp

Watch out for the $100 or cheaper all-in-one hand-held code readers that only show Pnnnn codes, and sometimes not all of them but only the emissions codes.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at the schematics a little.....2006 DTS...

The turn signal signal switch assembly has a ground G300.

Hazard switch uses the same G300 ground. 

I sure would like to inspect G300 under the drivers seat.

Ground G300 is #2 in the picture. 

g300.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another bit of information would be a CarFAX on this car.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We don't really know what's up with the car at this point because we haven't verified anything for sure yet.  Exchanging text messages about symptoms can be very informative but you have so many symptoms that are in different areas of the car that I've come to think that there are multiple problems, and that they possibly are independent.  That's why I would like to see what a CarFAX says, and why I think there are BCM codes stored, and that we need the Bnnnn OBD codes.

I have seen problems like what you are facing in cars that have had hardware-minded mechanics do wrenching on the car and inadvertently damage the wiring harness by stretching wires, and pulling one or more wires loose from a connector - then just pushing the wire back into the connector and hoping for the best instead of repairing the connector.  But with the turn signals and hazard warning switch, we have implicated a connector under the dash, C1 on the BCM, and I can't imagine how that would happen and refuse to speculate about that here.

But with one bright headlight turning on, you have found an opportunity to fix something with only a couple of places to look.  Here is the headlights schematic for your 2006 DTS.  Note that if one bright headlight turns on and the other does not, and both low beams work OK, there are only a few places to look in the circuit for the other headlight:

  • The other 10 Amp HI BEAM headlight fuse in the underhood fuse block
  • The other headlight high beam solenoid
  • The wiring.  Note that the headlight high beam power comes from connector C1 on the underhood fuse block, pins 17 and 18.

At this time I would recommend that you look at the fuses and the solenoids first.  Let me know if you need the connector end views and the wire table for C1 on the underhood fuse block.

2006_DTS_Headlights.png

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The driver side was working earlier. I cant control my head lights frim my inside switch. My high breams which you're aware of or either my low beams from the inside switch. My low beams come on when it starts to darken and turn if during the day. On their own. Maybe something to do with the switch is also a problem. I figure there are multiple exposed, not hooked up correctly or just burnt out from something.  

Another wierd thing is that one hi bean stayed on all day until my low beams came on when it started to get dark out. .....???????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, change both headlamp fuses 10A with NEW fuses or at least the spares in the fuse panel. I can't begin to count all the fuses that looked good but were in fact BAD.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...