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Amazing, took the battery into Auto Zone where I had purchased last December, Platinum with 3 years warranty, it had 4.8 v charge and they informed me the Caddy needs 10v to turn over. I honestly wasn't getting anything out of it, it was over charging and they replaced it. I replaced the new one, started up no issues, seats went into place, even the air is working fine. Not jumping to conclusions just yet, other than I drove out to the GM Dealership to inform them the first thing I requested was to check the battery, then the alternator. It currently is charging at 13.4v when driving, 12.8 when at idle. Is that per specs, or am I still dealing with alternator issues?

Also the tech tore a lot of wiring out under the drivers seat, so not sure what may materialize in the future. I sold  Caddy's for John C. Martin (Larry Miller's right hand man) 30 years ago, until I had opportunity of getting into Audio/Video business. I know it's not an easy job, sometimes when you're troubleshooting the obvious, you overlook the same thing.

Any comments on current charging status, fyi, headlights are currently off during the day (they weren't when I dropped it off)

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That sounds a little low.

Mine typically charge at 14.0 dead on without heavy load.

around 13.6 with loads.

dont get me started on what people do to wiring.

I specialize in electrical and have bailed out plenty of people that got probe happy with wiring.

Is there oil leaking onto the alternator? I ask this because the cam cover may be leaking oil onto it causing it to not work properly.

Glad to hear you are having some results. I am sorry the link does not work. I honestly am not so great with these computers. I know how to do a picture but get a headache from anything else

 

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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13.6 just now on a quick trip to store, used to always run at 14V,. When it sat for a couple hours, radio didn't come on automatically, had a single warning 'Check Coolant Level'. Basically, guess I'm waiting for something to happen, like when it won't start tomorrow? I should not say that :)  However air conditioning is working fine, it didn't last fall?

Probe happy techs scare me.

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You would not believe the things that can be caused by bad battery, connections, ground, etc...

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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good news.

Could you be a little more specific on the control issue.

As for the SWRC I am unsure. Unless it is bad itself (right controls) Each position provides a different resistance value that is sent via datalink through the system and controls the HVAC (or telephone if equipped) and the radio module.

Is coolant full (within 2" from the top of the surge tank)

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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  • 6 months later...

6 months of trouble free use, a few days ago issue re-presented itself. Took battery into Auto Zone for testing yesterday, they claim batter is good and took a full charge. Any recommended steps now, alternator, live ground, coolant might be a little low (that warning sensor came on for a day before not start) 

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I would go back to the battery cable ends.

Push the bolts out and clean both sides of the cable ends and the battery bolts themselves. Examine the battery cables for corrosion bubbles especially near the ends. Remove the battery ground cable where it connects to the unibody and make sure that connection is clean. After cleaning all the battery connections, coat them with dielectric grease and reinstall and tighten all the bolts. Do a voltage drop test.

Have the charging system tested for proper operation. It should charge at 13.6 or above at all times.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Used Deoxit on terminal ends, did a good job of cleaning residue, fully charged battery, was putting out 14.9. Filled up coolant reservoir, restarted and charging constant 14.4. Letting it sit for a couple hours. Any way of telling if there is a voltage drain or live short?

Thank you! 

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Not really, without doing a parasitic draw test. A voltage drop test could alert you to a possible problem but you would still need to do a draw test. Wait and see for now.

Sounds like you are good ATM.....

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been procrastinating due to snow storms in N. Idaho panhandle. After a full battery charge a month ago, it first starts at anywhere from 14.3 - 14.8 volts, then will ease down to 14.4 or 14.5. If left to idle, it will drop to 13.5 , 13.2, even below that until I increase idle speed. I'm getting more and more suspicious of an alternator issue? Or is there a separate voltage regulator on this model?

Happy New Year to all!

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  • 4 weeks later...

New issues, replaced the alternator with a new OEM, the original charging cable (positive from battery to fuse) was frayed, only 2 copper strands were intact. Mechanic replaced that cable. Now, transmission lights flash, Sentry flashes, Air Bag light flashes, radio turns on & off, climate control runs max at 75 degrees, I turn down fan or off, turn temp setting down, it turns back up by itself, dual traction engaged. Voltage varies from 13.6 - under 13. Totally whacked out. Dark out and rain/snow mix in N. Idaho. Not going to deal with it tonight. Any ideas?

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hmm.

Where did the cable go? to the fuse box...

Have you tried disconnecting the battery, letting it sit, and trying it again.

That sounds weirder than normal. Like continuity between fuse or relay terminals. It may be jumping across causing weird issues.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Frayed charging cable ran from battery to fuse box. Disconnected negative terminal today, went back to pick up my van (starter went out yesterday, 6 electrical issues with wife's, friends, sons & my vehicles in last month) and reconnected negative. Started, same Air Bag & Security warnings, Transmission lights flash, radio & heater would not work. Turned engine off and restarted, radio worked on restart, but wouldn't turn off after shutting down and opening car door. What is going on with the brains on this thing? I assume a new alternator and replacing the almost severed charging cable would have resolved? Next thing, I asked shop to confirm battery amperage, possibly another fried battery? (FYI, this specialty auto electric shop is really busy this time of year. I think many of these issues are being created by deicer the State is using for snow melt in N. Idaho? It's hell on brakes and other materials susceptible to corrosion)

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Ok so that main battery cable controls alot. I had that cable bad on my 1997 Deville. It Check the fuse box  for corrosion. Check the bolt for that cable to be sure it is tight.

There are relays and maxifuses in that box that control almost everything. 

Also check ground connections in that same area. You are on the right track, I figured that was the cable. Also if it did not do that before I assume that messing with that area likely caused a few gremlins.

I would say you are likely missing a ignition input to one of the modules and it is taking the datalink down due to the (missing) module. 

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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  • 1 month later...

New alternator, replaced charging cable, a apprentice mechanic had left a window partially down. Water under the seats that shorted out voltage. A couple drainage holes in floorboards, and dry out over the weekend, resolved it. It's been operating great for last 4 weeks.

Thanks all for the advice!

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