2000 DeVille, Starts, But Shuts Down Upon Releasing Gas Pedal

[Shatzy]

Lister's,

A few weeks ago I was happy to report that, upon installing a new OEM gas cap, the Check Engine Soon Light on the dash no longer appears.  Unfortunately, that happy moment lasted only about a week  (100 Miles) , my bubble burst and the message is back to greet me each time I drive the car.

Now, a more serious problem has presented:  Car ran fine on Wed.  Wife tried to start car on Thurs. When she releases her foot from the gas pedal, the car stalls.  Car will continue to run as long as gas pedal is depressed bkut I'm reluctant to take the car on the road to have my local Indy take a look.  

Also, fuel gauge is inaccurate again after replacing fuel pump twice.

At this time I'm urgently hoping for some advice from The List before I call a tow truck.  Any help will be appreciated.

Response by email is AOK: SMihaly137@aol.com

Following codes were displayed through the dash:

IPCU 1000 HISTORY     IPMB 0425    VT DBD 2734       PCM P0106       P386       SDMU 1040 HISTORY      VTD B1000 HISTORY.     

No ABS, AMP, DDM, DDS, DIMLRD, MSM, PDM, RCC, FTA, RIM, RRD.

[Logan]

2 codes....p0106 Map sensor performance. 

                 p0386 Crank sensor B

 

A decel stall would be more likely a MAP issue than a crank sensor. 

Here is the MAP info... 

The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in intake manifold pressure. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference and a ground for the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor provides a signal to the PCM relative to the pressure changes in the manifold. With low manifold absolute pressure (high vacuum such as during idle or deceleration), the PCM should detect a low MAP sensor signal voltage. With high manifold absolute pressure (low vacuum such as key ON, engine OFF or wide-open throttle), the PCM should detect a high MAP sensor signal voltage. The PCM tests the MAP sensor to ensure that the sensor is functioning properly. The PCM predicts a MAP sensor value based on throttle position and engine speed. The PCM then compares the predicted value to the actual MAP sensor input. DTC P0106 will set if the actual MAP sensor input does not closely match the predicted value.

 

[Shatzy]

Logan,

 

Thanks so much for the prompt response.  I'm one of those wacko  persons that can't stand to have something sitting around 'broke' and I'm quite uncomfortable without a back up vehicle in the garage.

Unfortunately, your comments were way over my head, but I will share then with my neighbor who is much more savvy

than I.  He read the codes last night and determined that the culprit is the fuel pump.  I did mention in my post that the fuel gauge has been inaccurate for several weeks now.

He'll pick up a complete fuel pump tomorrow; not too difficult a job and my son will do the install tomorrow night. 

Thanks again, and I'll continue to share my experiences with The Forum.

Pgh Steve

 

 

[Shatzy]

 

RE. Sorry for my mistake.  This Post should have initially been posted under the 200 DeVille category.

R & R of  OEM fuel pump resolved problem.

Some additional tips for R & R fuel pump on the 2000 Deville:

The pump is located under the spare tire, and you have to be 'nimble' to get to it.  A large person might have difficulty working in the confined area.  I 'think'  a  7mm socket was used to remove the cover over the fuel tank?

SAFTY ISSUE: Most importantly, to avoid sparks, a heavy "Brass" hammer and punch is recommended to remove the  approx. 5" diameter ring  holding the fuel pump in place!

Removing the approx. 5" ring that holds the pump in place can,  (no, is difficult to remove) due to possible rust!   It took many strikes with a heavy hammer and use of a long 12" -18" +,  flat edged punch or large flat head screw driver to get this ring to rotate/loosen, (counter clock-wise).   Son used a wire brush to remove rust from the ring before the reinstall!  Again, a heavy "Brass" hammer and punch is recommended to remove this ring to avoid sparks!

Have a large rag handy!  The fuel pump is tall, and needs to be tilted to remove.  Not a major problem, but the pump has a reservoir of gas which spilled out upon removal of the old fuel pump.   Use of a small siphon hose might be helpful to remove this small amount of gas to prevent spilling and residual gasoline odors after the R & R.

Finally, when the car was first started after the R & R, it ran like it was running on 'four' cylinders.  After letting the car idle for several minutes, car was back to running smooth as silk.  Checked codes after driving 12 miles and found none present.  Drove car approximately 30 miles the following day and no problems presented.

Thanks Listers.

Pgh. Steve

[BodybyFisher]

21 hours ago, Shatzy said:

 

RE. Sorry for my mistake.  This Post should have initially been posted under the 200 DeVille category.

R & R of  OEM fuel pump resolved problem.

Some additional tips for R & R fuel pump on the 2000 Deville:

The pump is located under the spare tire, and you have to be 'nimble' to get to it.  A large person might have difficulty working in the confined area.  I 'think'  a  7mm socket was used to remove the cover over the fuel tank?

SAFTY ISSUE: Most importantly, to avoid sparks, a heavy "Brass" hammer and punch is recommended to remove the  approx. 5" diameter ring  holding the fuel pump in place!

Removing the approx. 5" ring that holds the pump in place can,  (no, is difficult to remove) due to possible rust!   It took many strikes with a heavy hammer and use of a long 12" -18" +,  flat edged punch or large flat head screw driver to get this ring to rotate/loosen, (counter clock-wise).   Son used a wire brush to remove rust from the ring before the reinstall!  Again, a heavy "Brass" hammer and punch is recommended to remove this ring to avoid sparks!

Have a large rag handy!  The fuel pump is tall, and needs to be tilted to remove.  Not a major problem, but the pump has a reservoir of gas which spilled out upon removal of the old fuel pump.   Use of a small siphon hose might be helpful to remove this small amount of gas to prevent spilling and residual gasoline odors after the R & R.

Finally, when the car was first started after the R & R, it ran like it was running on 'four' cylinders.  After letting the car idle for several minutes, car was back to running smooth as silk.  Checked codes after driving 12 miles and found none present.  Drove car approximately 30 miles the following day and no problems presented.

Thanks Listers.

Pgh. Steve

That P0386 Crank Sensor B didn't heal itself, if you begin to have intermittent stalling check the crank sensor.