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new owner of a 93 ELDORADO , where do I start?


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Alright first and foremost, My name is Aaron im out in here in San Antonio Texas & i wanna say thank you to everybody that post to this site. The vast knowledge ive seen here in such a short period of time on my specific type of car leaves me excited, and optimistic. i appreciate anybody who replies, or reads thankyou thankyou.

Now let me explain my situation. Im 24 years old, with this being my 3rd car ive aquired in my short life, but it makes it the actual first car ive bought with my hard earned money, lest to say i now own a beautiful 1993 Eldorado touring Coupe. I nicked it off an old lady who had upgraded, bless those peeps! I really got a great deal on this ride.

I bought the car mid-september, and put maybe 1000 miles on it, i had the oil changed about 2 weeks after driving it. They claimed there's and oil leak underneath somewhere as well. ive been monitoring the oil, used a high mileage oil to help with leaks. My car had about 93xxx miles when i bought it, it has around 94 now.

  Im not exactly mechanically inclined, but ive had a few ears let me know a couple strategies i could execute first to deal with the problems ive been having. Mind you, they havent exactly suggestion the actions ive seen on a couple of these threads lol, more so simple things like change the spark plugs fuel filter etc etc.

The problems. I never got a check engine light until today, right after i changed the fuel filter driving it up the street. Changed the spark plugs about 2 weeks ago, which were needed. Basically I asked about the last tune up, They said they didnt know. OK, so now i know i need a tune up, which ive slowly been doing. But these things didnt take care of the rough start, it doesnt turn over so easily. (sometimes it starts right up) Engine shakes rougher than it should, and backfired once or twice ( i realize it could be a vaccum seal , or something rather?) ill post a picture. The tailpipes shake. Keep in mind the Check engine light barely came on, today , the only codes that are current are s060 and s062 which i know are suspension codes, and are also new. (my service ride control has been shown since purchased it) I also get a check coolant level (which has also been there since i bought it) but coolant level seems fine, no leaks anywhere as well. (keeping in mind something about the coolant evaporating when it leaks from a certain spot, so you have to leave it pressurized overnight cold to spot the leak).

More than anything its the shaking of the engine that worries me. changing spark plugs and fuel filter improved mileage and overall driving experience, but i gotta find whats shaking the engine so much.

I have to add there is an obnoxious squeaking coming from the pulley pictures, i believe. if its not this one in particular its one of them. The belt is good, suggestions say its the bearing or something. The sound is dreadful and gets louder with acceleration. Also, a white smoke was coming up from under the airfilter, where theres wiring, smelled like a plastic burning, that was first crank this morning after i was depressurizing the fuel system. Thankyou for reading and for all your future suggestions, i want to get this riding as smooth as possible!

 

Link to pictures here

https://aaronjorriy.smugmug.com/93Eldog/

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The first thing you need to do is to check for codes that have been set.

In my signature is a link to how to check codes.   You can do it yourself, you do not need a code reader, you have an on board diagnostics system. 

Retrieve the codes and post them here.   Mike

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@BodybyFisher s060 & s062 come up as history , but those are the codes that are triggering the service engine light.The Service engine light isnt on right now, but after i drive it comes on, and those codes come up as current after i check. i understand it may a be a sensor missing or something.

p020 history

p036 history

po74 history

po95 history

s038 history'

s044 history

s060 history

s061 history

s062 history

s063 history

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Have your battery load tested, a weak battery can set codes and cause roughness.  

Clean the connections at the battery.  Always disconnect the negative cable  (black) first and reconnect it last.  Pay attention to the positive cable there are usaully 2 cables sandwiched under the red insulator, take that joint apart and clean it.

Does the check engine light flash?

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P020 (E020) .................................................  Open Fuel Pump Circuit
P036 (E036) .................................  EGR Valve Pintle Position Out of Range
P074 (E074) ................................................  Intermittent MAT Signal

P095 (E095) ..................................................  Engine Stall Detected

Clean your EGR valve, search how to do it here.

Check your connection at the MAT, its located on the AIR INTAKE plumbing leading toward the throttle body, it may be disconnected. 

Do you smell fuel?, smell at the exhaust while it idles, do you see black smoke?, the Fuel Pressure Regulator in located under the intake cover on this engine and leaks directly into the intake

I believe this engine has a back up to keep the fuel pump running, when it loses power, @Logan  I need to pull my manual and see what the P020 means.

I may be wrong, but I am surprised that the S codes are setting a check engine light, usually, you will get a service ride control message or ABS message.  I think you might be mistaken, you may have an intermittent P code that is setting the light likely one of the above codes.


S060 ..............................................  Left Front Position Sensor Fault

S061 .............................................  Right Front Position Sensor Fault

S062 ...............................................  Left Rear Position Sensor Fault

S063 ..............................................  Right Rear Position Sensor Fault

Regarding the above S codes, check to make sure that the RODS are attached to the position sensor and the control arm, on your left front and left rear and right front and right rear.  Sometimes mechanics leave them detached when doing work or they get knocked off, also check the connectors, follow the wire from the sensor to the connector.   The rod looks like this, it sits in a vertical position:

Level%20Control%20Link%204%20inch_zps3u4

 

S038 ...................  Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open
S044 .....................................................  Lift or Dive Signal Fault (this may be solved once you figure out the level sensor problems)

 


 

 

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Here is a nice history and information on your car

http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/cad1990/cad93e.htm

 

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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The check engine light does not flash. It doesnt turn on until a few minutes after driving, then it goes away the next time i drive. I will clean the battery connections.

just watched a video on cleaning the egr valve, will conduct that. But also is it the MAP or MAT signal?

i do smell fuel at the exhaust, i dont see black smoke though.

I am getting the service ride control message, so i dont understand the service engine light either.

 

also going to have alook at the ROD placement

 

 

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Yes, the S code sets after you drive a couple of blocks.  

Don't breathe the EGR dust when you clean it, its carcinogenic, stay clear of it.  Put a torx in the end and spin the pindle against the seat and help clean it, I used a 22 caliber rifle cleaning steel wire brush to clean it and get into it.   

According to the codes its the MAT, I posted the wrong scan before.  

You probably have a bad fuel pressure regulator its under the intake cover on your engine, that will cause idle fits.  Do NOT start the engine with the intake cover off, it will race away uncontrollably.  Take cover off and inspect the regulator you should not see or smell fresh fuel.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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A note on the MAT sensor -- When the oil change places check the air cleaner they don't know or don't think to disconnect the connector and can damage the wiring to the sensor or damage the sensor itself. Pull the air inlet hose and inspect the sensor for damage and also check the wiring and connector for damage as well. 

When you have the air inlet off check the area under the throttle body for any melted or burnt insulation.

Be sure to check your water pump belt tensioner/pulley as they are very noisy when they go bad and the pulley that is driven by the camshaft is plastic and can get hot and create that burning smell also.

Sometimes - simply cleaning the throttle bore and throttle plate will improve idle quality a lot.

@BodybyFisher has given you a LOT of good information, fuel pressure regulator was my number one thought when reading your original post.

Don't forget to check power steering pump and pressure hose for leaks, if the pump is low on fluid it will make a loud sound that will worsen on acceleration.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Thankyou both @oldcadtech & @bodybyfisher. Today I got time to open the hood and work on her. I wanted to post as soon as i go along. I opened the beauty cover and immediately smelled fuel. I mention of an oil leak before that they mentioned when I got the oil change . The wires look as of there is a leak somewhere. I tried to turn it over today and it backfired underneath the hood , and started smoking underneath the cover. 

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That sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator.  On the 93, the 'beauty cover' opens into the intake plenum, is that correct?   Did you see the fuel pressure regulator and did you see evidence of wet fuel?, I know you said you smelled it. 

The smoke you saw, came from the anti-backfire valve on the intake manifold behind the power steering pump, it opens to stop the intake from blowing up and injuring you with shrapnel.  It is made of strong Nylon 66 thermoplastic but that is a safety feature to relieve pressure in the event of internal backfire that you experienced. 

I would immediately replace the regulator

One other thing, did this car sit for an LONG period of time? (I worry about an injector leaking also, but the first place to consider is the FPR)

Take photos when you can, and post them, if you have difficulty I will tell you how, photos help us

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Absolutely. I have trouble uploading photos because of the size. 

 

Yes I under the cover is the intake plenum, and inside underneath there is signs of wet fuel. the FPR isn't wet itself, that's the little canister thing with the nipple on it? I added a couple pictures here https://aaronjorriy.smugmug.com/93Eldog/ 

Also added 2 pictures of where some wiring was touching some connections 

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Good job with the photos, I was going to suggest photobucket but that is great, and I have been aggravated with photobuckets ads that bog down my computer badly.

That is a beauty!!!!   Very beautiful and clean  you are very lucky to have scooped it up.   If I recall, the 93 was the most powerful Northstar, I will let @KHE reply to see if he recalls that.  I think your engine is the 300 HP model, as it came out first, (someone confirm), see if you have a Y or 9 on in your VIN number.

You have two photos of the fuel pressure regulator (yes, the canister with the nipple sticking upward), typically on later models the FPR is located outside the plenum and has a vacuum hose attached to it, we idle the engine and look for spitting but you can not do that. Your FPR is directly acted on by intake vacuum in the plenum and therefore has no vacuum hose.   What you can do is to relieve the fuel pressure at the test port Schrader valve and remove the FPR and turn it over and see if fuel comes out.   But I would just replace it.   You do seem to have wet fuel around and there should not be any at all.    You can use ROCKAUTO to get a new regulator if you are not in to much of a hurry.  If you do a search you will find a Rockauto 5% discount from me and Adallak that you can use. 

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here is the Rockauto discount, its good till the 20th of November.  Its not much but it will cover shipping

 

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Wow thank you so much brother i really appreciate it. The photo website I came across by just browsing photo hosting sites, does the job fairly well! I was very fortunate to buy her and I'm happy to be in company of great cadillac enthusiasts.

I read about the troubleshooting method of new models, and figure it was best to just replace it anyways. 

Also the Vin Has a 9 , no Yeah though. 

 

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That is what I thought, Vin 9 has 300 HP (295 HP in 93), where as Vin Y has 275 HP.   You have the more powerful engine. 

With the fuel smell at the exhaust and the evidence of fuel in the plenum and backfire, I am pretty confident your FPR is shot....    Let us know how this works, out, welcome aboard!! 

:welcomesmiley:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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In order to access the FPR on the '93-'94 Northstars, the upper intake plenum must come off - four bolts if I recall correctly.  You will see the FPR - no hose is hooked to it since it is in intake vacuum.  Turn the key to the ON position BUT DO NOT START OR TURN THE ENGINE OVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.  With the intake plenum removed, there will be a huge vacuum leak and the engine will race to redline and possibly blow.

With the key in the ON position, look for fuel dripping out of the FPR nipple.  There should not be any fuel dripping from the FPR nipple.

Another possibility is one or more leaking injectors.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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nice eldo. Would like to see some interior pics.

Also I like the fact that they used standard green coolant. Maybe it is just me but I liked the green bi annual change.

I wonder if that engine was run hot, judging by the bubbling of the cam cover and the beauty cover

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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@BodybyFisher@KHE Alright part just came in. Last time i lifted the cover to lok at the plenum, i didnt realize, that ALL 12 TORQUE SCREWS ARE GONE TO THE MANIFOLD COVER. i mean completely missing, all 12 !!! i didnt realize before, because obviouysly being new i easily overlooked it.

After reading a thread here on this site by a 1 @Vince P about removing the FPR, i learned of the 12 torque cover bolts. However upon opening the cover i found that they are missing. I dont know what problems that could lead too, but i know that could lead to my car having a real rough idle. What can i do? i was in motion of switching out the FPR as we speak

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You are very very lucky that engine didn't take off uncontrolled, I am surprised that the backfire didn't blow the cover off.   I am not totally familiar with the 93, does it snap in place?, what is holding it down?   I saw a few photos and there are 6 bolts on each side.   Do you know the sizes, my 94 manual should give details on the bolt sizes.

Do not run the engine like that, until you get those 12 bolts secured

tONrqp.jpg

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im uploading them up here.

im trying to get the cover off right now, but around the area where the FPR its pretty stubborn and stuck on, as im noticing maybe some snaps along there.

i dont know the sizes , should there be a place i can find them? btw uploading a few pics to

https://aaronjorriy.smugmug.com/93Eldog/

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Your first photo at that link shows the bolts?   I am confused.

If those bolts are missing, that probably caused your fast idle,  OBD1 does not set lean codes.  Unmetered air on OBD2 engines sets a lean code P0171 and P0174. 

Let me get my manual, to see about those bolts.  

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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Looks like the wiring is burnt to the MAP sensor.

When you removed the beauty cover you took those 12 bolts out I'm thinking....

 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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