Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 i was wrong 0.03 is 1000a. while im waiting for bcm to turn back off. i really dont want to pull all the door panels to disconnect the logo lights. so i was going to try and use a light tester to see if i could see anything thew testing the oem door panel light terminals. thats where there spliced into. and i went to put the int/lmp fuse in and the is a relay clicking real fast down uder the dash. and how can i test this circuit whith my meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I cant get that to happen again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 maybe it happened when i was hooking up the meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 1 hour ago, BodybyFisher said: You said this, and I think it is a very important clue, "for some reason the Bcm got triggered again stayed on for a while 10mins or so 08.8" Try to figure out, what triggered the BCM. Btw Thank you for all your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 What fuses are still in? What scale are you on that you converted 0.03 to 1000A? Or are you saying 1000mA? When you heard the relay clicking were there any LEDs flashing? I've re-read this post from start to last post and the topic that keeps coming back is the security system and the interior lamp circuit. I've installed enough security systems to know that they almost always use an interior lamp circuit and most people (including me) use the drivers footwell lamp for that signal to the alarm. I think you installed an LED bulb and strip. I'm not ruling out the security system yet... Your problems started if I remember correctly (without going back again) after the hydraulics were added AND you had the security system installed. That was the magical moment, is that correct? 4 hours ago, Fleetwood Slim said: the hydro's do not run off the car in anyway How is the hydraulic system activated? Is the pump mounted in the car also? Electrically powered momentary switches? Is the controller a console on the end of a cable or is it center console or dash mounted? I'm not entirely familiar with the system but I have a general knowledge of how hydraulics work. One of the fuses you pulled that made a lot of reduction in the amp draw was CCR - this is the Computer Command Ride, Is it safe to assume this went away when the hydraulics were added? How was this system disabled? You had an 8.8 amp draw when you "triggered" the BCM, that is HUGE ! How many batteries are mounted in the vehicle? I have a LOT of questions I know, but any vehicle and especially Cadillac is an array of separate systems interwoven in a complete package. If you modify one system it affects other systems. When you modify numerous systems or remove systems entirely then you have "created" something entirely different and the normal "text book" diagnostics no longer apply. Quote THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 3 minutes ago, OldCadTech said: What fuses are still in? What scale are you on that you converted 0.03 to 1000A? Or are you saying 1000mA? When you heard the relay clicking were there any LEDs flashing? I've re-read this post from start to last post and the topic that keeps coming back is the security system and the interior lamp circuit. I've installed enough security systems to know that they almost always use an interior lamp circuit and most people (including me) use the drivers footwell lamp for that signal to the alarm. I think you installed an LED bulb and strip. I'm not ruling out the security system yet... Your problems started if I remember correctly (without going back again) after the hydraulics were added AND you had the security system installed. That was the magical moment, is that correct? How is the hydraulic system activated? Is the pump mounted in the car also? Electrically powered momentary switches? Is the controller a console on the end of a cable or is it center console or dash mounted? I'm not entirely familiar with the system but I have a general knowledge of how hydraulics work. One of the fuses you pulled that made a lot of reduction in the amp draw was CCR - this is the Computer Command Ride, Is it safe to assume this went away when the hydraulics were added? How was this system disabled? You had an 8.8 amp draw when you "triggered" the BCM, that is HUGE ! How many batteries are mounted in the vehicle? I have a LOT of questions I know, but any vehicle and especially Cadillac is an array of separate systems interwoven in a complete package. If you modify one system it affects other systems. When you modify numerous systems or remove systems entirely then you have "created" something entirely different and the normal "text book" diagnostics no longer apply. okay yes i meant 0.03 = 1000ma. i have disconnected all leds removed all led bulbs. i also have the logo projector lights in the bottom of my doors. they are spliced into the bottom door light. foot well lights i have not looked for not sure if i have any i have never seen them light up. my car dose have lights in the doors. Problem started right after alarm install. that's is why i kept taking my car back to them thinking it was alarm i know for a fact i remember telling the hydraulic shop to unplug my battery or it would be dead the next day. that and i changed out the alternator and battery the day before taking my car there and the water pump radiator cooling system the morning that i set out trying to fix another problem that still exist. my hydro's are totally self-sufficient have 8 batterys running 3 pumps 3 dumps and solenoid running to a switch panel on my dash. there is no electrical that ties into my car pumps mounted to a rack in trunk. was it 8.8 got to scroll back and look ask all the questions you want and i will preform any test you want i am determend to get this fixed. and thanks for taking the time to help me out!!! I pulled all fuse and relays but replaced the relays so i did not get mixed up. but all fuses are out. when im testing i am replacing the #34 CCM and the #2 Body2 fuse under the hood. when either of those are pulled kills all power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I am using the 10a scale on my meter cheap harbor fright 5 dollar meter. also the headliner lights i unpluged from the clip so sockets are even removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) last test i did ended with 0.13a testing with 10a Edited August 3, 2016 by Fleetwood Slim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Okay, 1000mA = 1amp ---- 0.13a = 130mA ---- 0.03 = 30mA Where are you getting your amperage readings from? The battery or someplace else? Quote THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 1 minute ago, OldCadTech said: Okay, 1000mA = 1amp ---- 0.13a = 130mA ---- 0.03 = 30mA Where are you getting your amperage readings from? The battery or someplace else? meter in series with battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 cheap bulbs i used in head liner lights the bottom door lights have built in resistors and chips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 logo lights bottom door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 my gates and racks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) but im ready to check the lights off the list and all my mods for that matter since they all have been removed and disconnected, and yet there is still a draw. Can i get a second on that? Edited August 3, 2016 by Fleetwood Slim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 On 8/1/2016 at 7:40 PM, Fleetwood Slim said: I'M trying to remeber how to read codes and i will be back with them Missed this before i do have an abs light on. and think it did fail to self test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 10 hours ago, Fleetwood Slim said: Btw Thank you for all your help You are welcome, you have quite a project there to troubleshoot. I woke up this morning dreaming about your project. @OldCadTech is doing a terrific job, his having direct experience should be of terrific help to you. Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 What is the draw now? Quote THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 8 minutes ago, OldCadTech said: What is the draw now? and traction light always on and will not disengage via glove box switch. okay when i last checked i was getting 0.13a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 13 minutes ago, OldCadTech said: What is the draw now? if i have not thanked you. thank you. i have been so lost trying to figure this out. this is the point where i quit last time i did this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 last time i did this i think i came to the conclusion. that it was the ecu,bcm.ccm what ever you want to call it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 You're welcome Are the fuses still out? IF you are still at 130mA, 130mA is acceptable, actually pretty good. If you are over 130mA don't go any farther let me know.. Start putting fuses back in BUT 1 at a time, start with the interior lamps fuse but wait until the system goes back to sleep and write down the draw so you have a record to go back to. STOP at the fuse that your module sleep state draw is over 200mA. don't go any farther, let me know... I sent you a PM, get back to me on that too plz. Quote THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 11 minutes ago, OldCadTech said: You're welcome Are the fuses still out? IF you are still at 130mA, 130mA is acceptable, actually pretty good. If you are over 130mA don't go any farther let me know.. Start putting fuses back in BUT 1 at a time, start with the interior lamps fuse but wait until the system goes back to sleep and write down the draw so you have a record to go back to. STOP at the fuse that your module sleep state draw is over 200mA. don't go any farther, let me know... I sent you a PM, get back to me on that too plz. i was reading that it should be 50ma or lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Just want to make sure im doing this right. I have my meter set to Dca 200m probe in vma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleetwood Slim Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 12 minutes ago, Fleetwood Slim said: Just want to make sure im doing this right. I have my meter set to Dca 200m probe in vma With that configuration. First reading is - 00.6. Started under hood replaced the ign fuse and got a jump from 00.6. -11.4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 You can leave it in 10A if you want. Get back to me on the PM too..... Quote THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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