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Transaxle seal replacement


jhall

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Hi all,

I've pulled the trans from my '97 Deville along with the engine (head gasket). I believe I want to change the transmission main seal and the axle seals while I've got it out (changing all of the trans oil also). No leaks so far, but at 130K miles, I'd kick myself if a leak developed after the repairs.

The Helms manual does not give much detail on the seals. Is it as easy as popping out the existing seals and pressing in a new one from the outside? The only seal replacement info in the Helms book is for one side of the trans only and it shows that the axle extension must be removed, but this appears to be an internal seal.

Can the seals be removed without pulling the axle extension housings off the transmission? Can the main seal at the converter be replaced without too much hassle?

Any comments appreciated. :)

P.S. - Successfully Timeserted the block. Getting ready to order gaskets / seals and reassemble the engine. Hope to post a few pics later this month. :D

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Still going at it huh?

Sorry I don't have any thing to add about tranny main or axle seals. I don't reacall from any post about these seals being much of a problem.

However, your concern about leaks had me wonder about the infamous "half-case" leak. I'm fairly certain that particular leak issue was fixed with a new seal design.

Did you address the half-case leak already - or was that not a problem in '97?

Stay with it and take lotsa pics! :)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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Did you address the half-case leak already - or was that not a problem in '97?

I had the half case seal done on mine while still under warranty. At least they told me it was a half case seal. After finding this site, I have my doubts.

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Did you address the half-case leak already - or was that not a problem in '97?

I had the half case seal done on mine while still under warranty. At least they told me it was a half case seal. After finding this site, I have my doubts.

Larry, I am leaking oil and tranny fluid like a sieve. This weekend I am doing my LF balljoint and front brakes. I need to buy a drill press, drilling the 7/16" rivets out by hand on my 91 by hand was rough and not accurate.. Any excuse to buy a tool however but I do believe that using a drill press will make a more accurate hole in these rivets. Costco has a 1/3 hp Delta Bench Top in stock for $89.

I am planning on going over all of the oil and tranny hoses, cam covers, etc soon. I don't know this engine well enough but I get the feeling that there are enough cooler hoses, cam covers, tranny covers, seals if not kept in check, could lead to leaking problems, do you think that's true? And that is eliminating a possible case half leak. I understand the tranny gasket is re-usable is that advisable do you think or would you replace it?

It looks like my struts have allowed my carriage to hit the ground and my oil pan looks possibly cracked in front of the drain. Do you know if the pan is cast it appeared that it cracked which would make me feel it was cast aluminum. I have not gotten under the car in a week, but I have to look again, a cracked oil pan, and a hose or tranny pan or side cover leak could explain a lot of my oil and fluid loss... What do you think. I need to get on this car its getting away from me mechanically and beginning to ride like hell...

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If you want accurate holes, buy a good (Delta) not a cheap (Taiwan) press.

Yeah, I'd check all the possible oil lines. My oil filter was very wet all of a sudden when I went to change oil. The more I think about it I think it may have been an oil filter adapter but the dealer saw a big warranty job.

I am not positive but I think the pan is cast. If it were mine and there was a small crack, I think I'd clean it real good and JB Weld it. I don't think the northstar will give up a pan while the engine is still in the car.

I have not done my trans fluid yet but I think I'd reuse the gasket as intended.

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Did you address the half-case leak already - or was that not a problem in '97?

I had a small amount of leakage just starting near the rear main seal body at the split line. I caught this as I pulled the engine down, (before I cleaned the block) so I'm not sure it was completely resolved at the factory.

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Jhall,

With a 130,000 miles on that torque convertor seal, I would think that you would be better off replacing it. Remember it is several years old and if you have removed the engine from the transmission, you have stressed the seal beyond it's normal position. The seal isn't very expensive. You should get/borrow the proper seal installer for that seal. Trying to drive it in with just a hammer will almost guarantee a leak or destroyed seal. I had to use a three pound hammer along with the installer tool. I was suprised at the amount of force that it took to get the seal to start square in it's bore.

Additionally there is a small "O" ring seal on the transmission input shaft that should be replaced when you remove the torque convertor. This seal provides oil to the convertor clutch and is easily damaged or lost when the torque is off of the transmission. As above, I would replace it while you have it where you can get to it.

As far as the axle seals, I would definately replace them to for the same reasons as above. Just use the proper seal installer so you don't warp them.

All seals get hard and brittle with age and heat. Some of the new seal compounds resist heat and age damage better than those avalible just a few years ago. Remember, it may cause $XX to replace those seals now, but it will cost $XXXX :( to replace them later.

Good Luck with your repair,

Let us know how everything turns out.

Britt

Britt
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Jhall,

With a 130,000 miles on that torque convertor seal, I would think that you would be better off replacing it. 

Thanks Britt. I had the same concern regarding the age of the seals, even though there are no leaks yet. I was looking at the o-ring seal in the manual and didn't realize this could be a problem.

I'll keep everyone posted. :)

Jeff

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