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Work Underway


jackc

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Finally got together the cash for parts my strut job, etc. So far I've got the new struts in and am doing the front brakes. I'll move on to the rear shocks and brakes after that.

So far, so good! I decided to go with the AC Delco passive replacements.

The original left strut was really bad, but the right one seems to be only about half worn out. Its interesting that I wasn't getting the service ride control message with that left strut....

Suppose there's a market for a used right strut?

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Sounds great Jackc, let us know how it goes. How was the front strut replacement part? What did you pay for the AC passive struts? I'm thinking about this soon myself. ^_^

I'd hang on to that used one, if someone gets nailed on one corner on an older car they may be looking for one for a band-aid fix. I have a used sensor that I am hoping someone will have a need for at some time, maybe myself!?! ;)

'09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi.
'15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi
'70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration!

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Thanks. I'll provide updates as I go.

As I recall, the struts were about $90 each. The rear shocks were higher. They're proud of those things! The installation wasn't too hard. I did get a shop to transfer the springs from the old struts to the new ones for me. I didn't have the right socket to get nut off the strut. I do have an impact and a compressor, so that made the job easier.

The only snag I ran into was that I had to enlarge the hole for the sway bar link to 15/32 so that mine would fit into it.

I'm going to hang on to those old struts for the time being - plenty of room for more junk in the attic. :unsure:

Got the front rotors turned today so with any luck I can move on to the rears after tonight.

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More progress. The front is all back together with the struts and brakes done. The sliders on the front calipers were pretty dry, but with a good cleaning and a fresh coat of brake grease, they're sliding well now.

I had to replace the front plastic panel in the right wheel well. Someone had put the panels in carelessly and the tire was rubbing on it, which tore it up pretty good. I did some trimming on the other panel to clear a harness, and there seems to be good clearance now.

The rear shocks are in too. No snags at all putting them in.

The rear brakes are apart now. The caliper mounting bolt is really small and in TIGHT. The head rounds very easily - if you decide to take one of these off, be sure to use a good 6 point socket.

The dust boots on the rear caliper pistons are in bad shape. I've got the calipers off now, and will probably take them tomorrow to the guy who turned my rotors to get them cleaned and resealed. He's been very reasonable so far - $8 each to turn the rotors - and doesn't seem to mind me bugging him. I'll have him do the alignment too when I get done.

Its looking like I may get this wrapped up by the end of the week.....

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$560 each for the real thing doesn't sound too bad. I seriously considered going that way, but in the end settled on the Delco passives. It will be interesting to see how it rides with the new passive struts and shocks. With 12 years and 93k on the original equipt., the ride was getting pretty sloppy.

I talked to my brake man this morning on the rear calipers. He said they don't rebuild 'em - just replace with rebuilts. It takes them too long to re-do one for it to be worth their while. He also said if they aren't leaking fluid, I should just put them back on and keep running them. The only apparent problem with them is that the dust boots on the piston of one is deteriorating and torn a little.

For now, I'm still debating whether to get some rebuilts, or just use them the way they are.

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The pistons in the old calipers were out pretty far. They turned back in just fine with a brake cube and didn't catch on the dust boots. The boots were just old and deteriorated.

I'll see about the emergency brake adjustment tomorrow night once I get the new calipers on. From what I could see, it looks like there is a center pull in the middle of the back that pulls both e-brake cables. Looks like any needed adjustment would be made there.

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Thanks for the info, I'll get one of those brake cubes, the first time I worked on one of those I tore the crap out of the boot on my Father in laws Monte using goose necks. If it work like those all ytou should have to do is install the brakes and push the parking brake, the slack will adjust out after hitting the parking brake a few times.

Julio

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