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Instrument cluster Programming


pabriss

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. :welcomesmiley:

It's probably just a connector or vacuum line off the air control controller or doors in the HVAC, but you should run the OBD codes and find out before you tear into anything. The OBD codes will tell what is not working in the HVAC (and everything else in the car that is electrical or controlled electrically). Check the link in my signature block for a Caddinfo how-to page on running your OBD codes. Write them down and post them here

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Curious.....you mention the cluster was just replaced. What was wrong with the previous cluster?

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Did you replace the IPM? If so, did you have a speedometer shop or dealer transfer the data from your old IPM?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The old cluster was completely dead, with none of the information system readouts, or the tach and speedometer were working. It was replaced with a used cluster that had more miles on the odometer than the old cluster so I don't know if that answers your question about the IPM or not? The work was done by a certified ASE mechanic at a local shop, not a dealer. He has agreed to get the car back to work on it further. I know that they did program the replacement cluster with the VIN number and I'm sure the car wouldn't have started if they hadn't. All of the information functions seem to be working properly. There are a couple of codes indicating that the coolant temperature and level sensors need to be replaced, which I have ordered, but haven't installed as yet. Thanks for your following this issue with me.

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This thread could really use some more info.

Does the blower work?

If it works does it work on defrost and floor? basically everything but the vents

The Climate control shows the dash position when it is not working.

I would love to help but need to bring it down to a vacuum problem or electrical problem.

See if your parking brake releases when you shift into gear. If it does not it is likely a vacuum problem.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Yes, the blower does work for the defrost, floor and rear vents.

Thank you. I will try the parking brake test. If it is a vacuum problem, is that something that could have been caused by the cluster installation? It was all working prior to that, even with the bad cluster.

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There's always the possibility that something wasn't plugged in just right in a big job, and it's hard working under the dash.

It's also very possible that your engine coolant sensor and level sensor problems are connector or wring problems.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Not much to leave unplugged....

The cluster is accessed from the top. The top dash pad comes off to access the cluster.

post-2-0-74642800-1457104289_thumb.jpg

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It turned out to be a vacuum hose problem. The hoses were deteriorated by age and possible rodent damage. However, the check engine light is still on for the coolant level and temperature sensors after fixing the dash vent problem. I purchased new parts and viewed videos on YouTube to install them. Tracing wiring problems is a little too advanced for me.

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The coolant level sensor is located in the coolant tank. You might try removing the tank and flushing it good with a hose. You can also check if the wire at the bottom is connected good.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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i can try the flush of the tank, and check the electric connection. However, I think the flush trial might only prove to add a lot of labor time for reinstalling and testing. If it doesn't clear the code, then I have to go through the whole procedure again, right? Also, can that solve the coolant temperature code as well? It seems to be a separate issue.

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The coolant temperature sensor is on the rear (driver's side) of the right (firewall side) head. They rarely go bad, so check to make sure that it is connected and the connector is clean and tight.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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i can try the flush of the tank, and check the electric connection. However, I think the flush trial might only prove to add a lot of labor time for reinstalling and testing. If it doesn't clear the code, then I have to go through the whole procedure again, right? Also, can that solve the coolant temperature code as well? It seems to be a separate issue.

Yes its true, but sometimes you will be able to solve the problem with a flush. I want you to remove the tank because I dont want you to introduce water into the cooling system. If I recall 2 hoses plus the hose on the top. If you just want to replace the tank the dealer sells them for about $130, and I found that rockauto sells 2 cheaper than that. You can remove the connector and jump the terminals to confirm that your tank is the problem, the light should go out with the connector jumped.

Jim is correct, the coolant temp sensor rarely goes bad, check the connector, under the coolant crossover straight down from the EGR valve.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'll follow up on these suggestions from both you and Jim this weekend and will let you know what I find out. Also, I did purchase a new tank at 1A Auto for $55 so if the current tank doesn't seem to be the issue after the bypass, I still may replace the tank. Thanks to both of you for your replies.

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