New struts 98 Concours

[brmurph]

Any tips installing the strut assembly back into the vehicle? I have the strut mounted via the top and am installing the knuckle but the strut seems too tall to install. Do I have to compress it somehow so I can get the lower strut bolts in?

[KHE]

The knuckle may need to be persuaded down in order to clear the flange on the strut assembly. How far is it mismatched?

[brmurph]

Its about 3 inches if I don't push down on the knuckle and If I push down on the knuckle (by hand) I am just over an inch or so off.

[BodybyFisher]

You need to push the control arm down after laying the axle into the big hole where the hub bearing goes.. I use a pry bar, push it down to get the ball stud in place.

[brmurph]

I must have just been tired and frustrated as I got it in this morning by hand (no tools needed). Thanks.

[BodybyFisher]

Terrific

[brmurph]

This project is complete (a few months back) and was successful , I probably made a bigger deal out of it then it actually was (read too many post about problems :-) so thought I would post what I did and the results.  This is more just notes and suggestions then a step by step description.    As a reminder I put in a set of NOS OEM electronic front struts with Moog springs.    If I had to do this again I would try the quick struts from Monroe and bypass the electronics but since I had the expensive factory struts already I had to do the work to put them in.    

Parts that were bad and replaced while I was in there: Lower control arms (1 OEM and 1 Dorman as OEM was not available for right side), outer tie rod (Moog), inner and outer CV boot on driver side (outer OEM, inner had to use Precision and think I liked it better then OEM, will see how it last), brake pads (Wagner, squealed like hell for first 50 miles but was fine after that), rotors (Wagner), right brake hose (ac delco), strut mount (OEM, expensive but think it was worth it), upper insulator/seat (NLA , had to reuse the old ones, I just turned the insulator a few degrees and reused it, seems fine), lower insulator/seat (OEM), stopper (OEM). 

I did not mark anything when I the strut assembly apart (probably should have) but I did try to follow the factory manual (which made little sense to me) for the orientation on reassembly.  Whatever I did seem to work fine and as far as I can tell orientation doesn't mater all that much (I could be wrong and just got lucky).  I replaced all the parts on the driver side first, had an alignment done and then drove it for about 1000 miles to verify I wanted to do the other side.  I know most (including me) would say you have to replace both sides at the same time, especially the struts, springs and brake pads,  but it drove fine and I would do it this way again.  I thought at least it would pull to one side during braking but it did not.    Note: I have a lifetime alignment and the shop said two alignments was fine :-). I ended up using the regular strut compressors that all the auto parts rent, they worked OK but it did help to use two sets (actually used 3 of the 4 compressors at one time).  If I had to do it again I would probably try a different type of compressor like BBF suggested above in an earlier post.  

Conclusion:  If I didn't have to go into this area because of a leaking CV boot I would not have replaced the struts and springs as even at 180,000 miles the originals were still working OK.  That being said I have noticed some differences.  It now corners much better (less tire squeal), it rides much more stiff, at first I thought it was going to be too stiff until I reduced the tire pressure from about 35 back down to 30 (which is recommended).  

One thing to note on CV boots/joints.  As most of us on this board I like to use OEM parts when possible so I bought the outer OEM boot (only outer is available in OEM), it comes with the compression clamp for the small side (axle side) so of course I had to get the factory tool (off ebay) to install it, I think this was a mistake as it was hard to get the clamp tool centered correctly on the clamp and when I clamped it it became a little off centered (which you can't tell until its too late) and looks like it dug into the CV boot a little, it might be fine but I am now worried it will cause the boot to leak/rip at some point.  Bottom line is I spent more money on OEM boots and tools and preferred the Precision aftermarket boots and they were much cheaper and heavier/thicker material).    Also during clean up  and assembly of the needle bearings (in a race so needle bearings stay put, that was nice)  in the CV joints I did not put them back in the same spots (I mixed and matched) which I am sure some will say is not good but so far no issues.  

One other thing.  The alignment shop (during the second and last alignment) said I put one of the lower strut bolts in backwards (I didn't know that was possible), because of this he was having trouble aligning it.  His solution was to just loosen the two bolts, make the adjustments and then tightened the crap out of them.  I thought this was a little odd as it would seem pretty easy to turn them around.  Anyway again seems odd to me but I guess it could be the case and wanted to mention it so the next person doesn't do this.

Hope this makes some sense:-)  Thanks for all the help!..

[Bruce Nunnally]

Thanks for following up.  It helps a ton for people to read the complete story.