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confused overheating


jmos6969

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Ok, try this then, Run a wire directly to the starter positive post and then touch it to the positive side of the battery and see if it works. Again this is something that I did on the SLS while I was having trouble with the starter . I put it the car together and it worked a few times till I got a new one......

Don't let your first ride be your last ride in a Cadillac!

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  • 2 months later...

Good morning

I am having a problem with my 96 SLS yes same car but different problem. I took the car to the shop and they fixed my electric problem. But now it starts but the rpm go super high, the shop told me I need a new intake manifold cover and fuel regulator and I had a vacuum leak. Well I fixed the vacuum leak then the car started revving up high when I start it. Can you please help me

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:welcomesmiley:

I could be a lot of things. The idle speed stepping motor could be sticking or have a loose connector. Run the OBD codes and post them here. The OBD codes will tell us whether to look for a vacuum leak, the idle speed stepping motor, manifold leaks or throttle body leaks, etc.

Use the link in my signature for instructions on reading your OBD codes.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good evening OK I have a 96sls now my car turns off when I am at a stop sign or light, now it does not turn off when I am driving or in neutral. Only when car is not getting enough gas. Please I need help

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Are there any trouble codes?

Checking the fuel pressure with the key on/engine off would be a good idea.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Fuel pressure regulator problems don't usually throw codes and can cause stalling during in-gear idle.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok plz need help. The same car 96 sls I'm getting these codes po101 po 174 po 300 po 131 po 171. Can u help I'm going to to buy new o2 sensor for bank 1 plz need location of thks sensor. Do I need a tune up also?

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P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
P0131 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1

The next time you run the codes, make a note of which are CURRENT and which are HISTORY. That can help quite a bit sometimes.

The 1997 FSM, page 6-302, says that the P0101 can be set because of a a loose or bad air cleaner element, or a loose or missing air duct on the fuel injection.

The P0174 and P0131 together are usually due to a massive vacuum leak, like a hose off the throttle body. The P0300 is likely related to that.

There P0131 oxygen sensor code, according to the 1997 FSM p. 6-340, can be set when the air-fuel ratio is actually lean due to a vacuum leak or other fuel system fault.

I wouldn't change the oxygen sensor until you have fixed the other codes because this combination of codes really doesn't show that the oxygen sensor is bad. The FSM says that for both mixture codes to fix the other codes first. I would make sure that the MAF was working before buying an oxygen sensor.

To answer your question, Bank 1 is the front bank, Bank 2 is the rear bank. Sensor 1 is the HO2S on the exhaust manifold just before the header flange. So Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on the front exhaust manifold just above the crossover pipe flange.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

To all you guys giving the info for my crazy problem on my cars thank you very much...

Ok on my 96 sls heater core blow so I bypassed and got elbow and hooked hoses together. Had no problem for 3yrs now my car is over heating I changed water pump and thermostat. And its gets hot after I drive five blocks. Also that elbow I replaced to bypass heater core gets super hot an breaks. Now can I have a bad water pump? I have no leaks there is no code for this, plz what do I do and thank you...

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Check the bypass, which is a hose that goes on a "bolt with a hole" near the thermostat, to a metal tube that goes under the beauty cover, to another rubber hose that connects to the overflow tank. Disconnect it at the overflow tank and start the car; you should see a steady flow out of it even with a cold engine. If not, remove and clean out the "bolt with a hole."

Check the codes yourself with the A/C buttons. Don't rely on an inexpensive (less than $400) code reader as most of them only read emissions codes.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Now can I have a bad water pump? I have no leaks there is no code for this, plz what do I do and thank you...

No - the current water pump as well as the one you replaced are most likely fine. The failure mode of a water pump is the seal - it will leak and wash the lube out of the bearing, then the bearing goes bad and the pump will make noise. All the while, it will still be pumping coolant.

Check the purge line like Jim suggested. If that is flowing coolant, rent the block tester from Autozone and test the coolant for combustion gasses.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Check back when you are done and let us know how the bypass is working.

If it overheats after five blocks, and the heater core bypass is really hot, it could be a sticking thermostat or clogged radiator. Make sure that your radiator hoses aren't kinked.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I sorry can you plz show diagram of the bolt and hose under the beauty cover. Because I took off hose from I think u was talking about that went to the coolet tank. Well I cleaned the hose did not see bolt I did see a tube with rubber hose connected that went to the tank. Question whitch one should be flowing with water the hose or the overflow tank when I start car sorry hope question is not crazy. Plz need help

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I don't have a picture but - the bolt is on the water pump housing - you need to follow the purge line from the surge tank - it is near the top of the tank - it goes under the beauty cover, connects to the throttle body area and leads to the water pump cover near the large hose at the top of the cover. Disconnect the purge line at the surge tank and place it in the neck of the tank. Start the engine and there should be a stream of coolant flowing out of the purge line. If not, work your way back to where it connects to the water pump crossover, disconnect it from the hollow bolt. Remove the hollow bolt and clean it out if it is plugged.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Well let me tell you guys what's up! I did clean bolt it was not clogged I changed thermostat and it still gets hot. You can hear the water boiling in the overflow tank. I just dont know what to do, but really need to get this fixed so plz help and yes the water pump is about two to three months old. Confused man...

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What KHE says.

A quick nose test may tell you whether there is head leakage: if there is a smell of exhaust in the overflow tank, or a smell of coolant in the exhaust (the best time to check is when you do a cold start in the morning; shut it off after a few seconds and walk back and see what you smell).

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Wait...water? You must have a 50/50 of coolant and water in there. If you have water, it will boil out and cause the car to overheat, and that's how you damage your head gaskets, and total the car in mechanical damage. If i were you, i'd perform the dye test we mentioned in post#2.

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If you think you have too much water, drain out a gallon of whatever is in there (if it was distilled water), and fill it with a gallon of straight dexcool. If it's not distilled, and mostly water, then take out as much as you can, and fill with 50/50.

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