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Can't hold her back


obtuce duce

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Hello all,

Here’s the deal, I notice the other day that I am having a hard time stopping.

Turns out that when stopped in drive, I can put it in neutral and the tach jumps to about 2800 then falls down to about 2400 then back up to 2600 without any input from me. This is happening pretty much every time I drive it, at least once or twice per drive, although sometimes when I go to neutral the tach only hits 2000 or so, but it stays around 1500 to 1800 with the same fluctuation. 1993 STS 215,000 miles

Wadayall figger's rong?

Thanks, Obtuce Duce

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Hello all,

Here’s the deal, I notice the other day that I am having a hard time stopping.

Turns out that when stopped in drive, I can put it in neutral and the tach jumps to about 2800 then falls down to about 2400 then back up to 2600 without any input from me. This is happening pretty much every time I drive it, at least once or twice per drive, although sometimes when I go to neutral the tach only hits 2000 or so, but it stays around 1500 to 1800 with the same fluctuation. 1993 STS 215,000 miles

Wadayall figger's rong?

Thanks, Obtuce Duce

Is your 93 throwing any codes? The codes would tell you what's going on. Just incase you need directions on accessing the codes I've enclosed the link to the How To page: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

Go down the page to OPERATING ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM and start reading there. Write down any codes that you see especially the Current ones and post them here so we can see what's going on. To exit the Diagnostics just press your Reset button (I believe it's on the left side of the DIC).

Could be a sticking throttle body blade but the codes will be more definite.

-kg

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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Well , checked the codes (thanks kger) and all I got were some SO history codes that have been there since I bought it. It didn’t even show an ABS code and the light’s been on a week.

I also notice that if I hold the throttle (in park) at say 2000 RPM’s, it does not stay there, the needle will rise and fall a couple hundred each way. Maybe has something to do with it also?

Bruce, Checked for binding cable, seems OK. Shot some WD 40 at it anyway.

Mike, I’ll try it, what should happen?

Jeff, how do I check the throttle position solenoid?

Thanks all, for your help.

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You can find the solonoid attached to the throttle body and looks like a bolt coming out of the top of it that presses against the solonoid. I would unplug the harness from it and drive it for a couple days and see if keeps a consistant idle throttle(may be high depending on the position of the solonid when it is removed from power). If you have the same northstar that I have in my 95 SLS, you may find that the solonoid is an on-order part (not is stock). Even though the in stock solonoid for my 93 Seville (4.9) looked the same, they had different part numbers. I bought one for a 93 and took my bad one on the 95 and gutted them. Then took the guts of the new one that was listed for the 93 and put it in the housing of my bad one. Have been running on it for about a year now and still works great.

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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OK, unplugged the solenoid, drove around, occasionally shifting to neutral to see if RPM‘s would go up, did not happen. Reattached plug, and, upon shifting to neutral, the tach would read 1500 or sometimes 1000.

So the solenoid is bad? I’m thinking about disassembling and cleaning it up. Maybe?

I also noticed that even with the solenoid unplugged the engine would continue to surge abut 400 R’s each way when holding the throttle still, at what should have been 2000 RPM’s...Looks like this is a separate issue. What would cause this?

Thanks again

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that "solenoid" with the plunger that operates on the throttle lever to control the idle speed per the PCM instructions)

gosh, I have been thinking where the hell was that "solonoide" :blink::D

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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