2008 DTS Turn Signal

[mike33]

Hi, I have a 2008 DTS and my right front turn signal bulb is out. The manual says "return to dealer for all bulb replacement"

I have never used a mechanic to replace an auto bulb. Is this car special. Anybody done one? And what is the bulb replacement #??

Thanks in advance!! Mike

[Texas Jim]

Hi, I have a 2008 DTS and my right front turn signal bulb is out. The manual says "return to dealer for all bulb replacement"

I have never used a mechanic to replace an auto bulb. Is this car special. Anybody done one? And what is the bulb replacement #??

Thanks in advance!! Mike

You have to either take the front bumper cover off or take the front wheel off and take the inner fender liner loose to be able to get to it...

[mike33]

wow, that's awful. Do I have to remove the bottom plastic engine rock cover too?

[Cadillac Jim]

I would make sure that it isn't a wiring harness connection or other problem first.

If the outside rear view mirror LEDs light up but the turn signal does not, the BCM and such are all working OK, leaving only the wiring and the bulb to check. There is a terminal on the wiring harness connector for the underhood fuse block, terminal C6 on connector X1, where the voltage to the bulb is available. This is on the rear terminal block X1, third row up, sixth terminal from the right. That connects to a BU/WH wire.

If that is 12 Volts when the bulb is supposed to be ON but is not, that leaves the wire from there to the bulb, the connector, and from the connector to the ground, G104 (through two splices).

[Logan]

At one time....there was a Federal motor vehicle law that required that the head lamp bulbs could be changed using no tools. So you could change the bulb on the side of the road and be on your merry way..

It appears...that is no longer the case. A couple of vehicles I know of require the front bumper fascia to come off to access the bulbs. A 2009 Chevy Traverse and 2005 STS.

[KHE]

Sort of off topic but... The old sealed beam headlights (round and rectangular) needed a phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining ring - many times, those screws woud be frozen to the rings and just about impossible to remove.

Having to remove the bumper fascia just to change a bulb is ridiculous but I'm sure there was no other way to accomplish the task given the tight packaging of today's vehicles.

[Texas Jim]

Just a tip for longer lasting bulbs...

Before putting in the new bulb, clean it with alcohol and try not to touch the actual bulb area with your fingers.

Oil from your skin can cause hot spots on the bulb and decrease it's useful lifespan.

This is especially true for the headlight bulbs, which are HID bulbs and run pretty hot when they are on.

Try to handle the bulbs with a tissue or thin piece of cloth and not bare fingers.

One more thing... If it were "ME" replacing the bulb... I would replace EVERY BULB in the entire headlight assembly... and would seriously consider replacing all of them in the OTHER light assembly while I had it all apart.

[JohnnyG]

It seems that GM is the "leader" in this area. I have recently heard a story about an owner of a new Chevy Malibu. She spent all her life working and never was able to own a new car. After retiring and downsizing, kids moved out, etc. she was eventually able to buy her first NEW car, a Chevy Malibu. Soon after the purchase, a headlight burned out. Not only was she cited by the PA State Police, she found out that it wasn't covered under warranty. The bill, once again for dropping the entire front bumper and fascia was $350.00! That bulb only lasted a short time, and once again she was stopped by the police.....no citation this time, but the cost of the second replacement was again not covered under warranty. Eventually found a local shop that would do it for $150.00.

Yes, for a headlight bulb, not HID.

[rockfangd]

wow. that sucks. Also the federal law does clearly not exist anymore.

[Cadillac Jim]

See Texas Jim's post. If you fingerprint a halogen bulb, its life will be limited to a few hours. This is true of headlight bulbs, projector bulbs, bicycle headlights, etc. Long live LED and HID lighting.

[mike33]

Thanks for all the input! This car is still covered under Cadillac CPO warranty. I'm getting mixed information on whether or not Cadillac CPO covers bulbs? Anybody know for sure?

[KHE]

Thanks for all the input! This car is still covered under Cadillac CPO warranty. I'm getting mixed information on whether or not Cadillac CPO covers bulbs? Anybody know for sure?

I don't know but if the dealer says the bulb is not covered, tell them you'll bring in a bulb for them to install under waranty.

[Cadillac Jim]

Car warranties usually exclude some items under "normal wear" by name, such as tires, brakes, etc. In years past, warranties excluded shock absorbers, wheels, etc. Thus bulbs are probably included. If I was buying a new car, I would ask about a written waiver if you ask about changing headlight and turn signal bulbs and you get an evasion or don't like what you hear.

[Texas Jim]

Thanks for all the input! This car is still covered under Cadillac CPO warranty. I'm getting mixed information on whether or not Cadillac CPO covers bulbs? Anybody know for sure?

Read this...

Looks to me like it would be covered under CPO...

http://www.cadillac.com/certified-pre-owned-vehicles/warranty.html

[mike33]

So, I wanted to follow up to the thread I started. Turns out the bulb is not covered under CPO. All future bulbs I will put in the time and do myself.

On a different topic, I had a squeak from the belt area. I thought it was a noisy pully, the dealer said it was just the belt, and replaced it.

Made a few trips including trip home all was fine. The next day wife takes the car and calls me to tell me there is smoke and squeeling coming from the belt area. Luckliy, she is right next to another Cadillac dealership. They test everything fine! All pullies good, belt good. The label on the new belt even still looked new.

Drove it home 25 miles, no problem. Anybody have any ideas about this mystery??

[Cadillac Jim]

You have a sticking pulley, or the tensioner is bad. If the belt tension is low and water gets on the alternator pulley, it can start slipping there and, if it doesn't stop, you can get smoke coming from there. A sticking pulley anywhere (but most likely on the tensioner arm) can do the same thing.