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Help With Head Unit Sound 'speaker" 05 Deville


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Good Day Forum:

I've gotten some excellant information of this site, and have saved me thousands in repairs. THANK YOU1

I just installed a JVC Double Dinn head unit in my 05 deville base, non bose system. I've read that I have 5.25 in all doors, then 6.5 in front doors and 5.25 in rear doors. I guess I'll remove to get the true size but hears my question. I would like some nice door speakers that carry sound well, so you can hear all three when playing and some nice base but nothing that gonna shake the truck and vibrate my rear mirror. I replace the 10" sub in the rear with a memphis 8 ohm sub. I was thinking about a nice sub or just get some decent 6*9 and install in the rear. I was told that my amp is trash and need replace, ok but what kind of specs do I need to review 1st? Can I find a adapter that will plug into the factory in line and run or just get a decent amp for sub's if I decide to purchase it? Don't NEED ALOT OF BOOM JUST WANT IT TO SOUND GOOD. Any help' would be greatly appreciated!

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General advice on audio equipment anywhere:

For amplifier specs, look at these numbers.

  • Power should be specified to the lowest and highest frequencies that you will need. In a car, 40 Hz to 10 kHz is all you are going to be able to hear, unless you stop in a quiet place and shut off the engine. But you may prefer the more conventionally cited 20 Hz to 20 kHz. Distortion should be less than 2% for all frequencies in the specified range. Determine whether the power is per-channel or all channels. Make sure that it can drive all your speakers as separate channels. Subwoofers and often tweeters need crossover networks, or need their own channel out of the amp. Most of the power will go to the subwoofer, which is usually single channel (not stereo) but make sure that the mid-range can handle it too; not everything is Moby.
  • Mid-range speakers should be rated to handle full power with a rated distortion of under 2%. Subwoofer distortion is easy to hear so look for that specification, too.
  • Damping factor is important for maintaining power and low distortion out the speaker. The damping factor is the dynamic impedance of the amp divided into the impedance of the speaker, and is actually a function of frequency, although it's not usually given that way. Something most people don't notice is that resistance in the speaker wire, both ways, must be added to the amp impedance before dividing into the speaker impedance; small speaker wire can rob your system of power and cause distortion in the speakers. Use an ohmmeter. Modern transistorized amps have damping factors at the amp terminals of 200 or even higher, but you really need only about 15 at the speaker terminals to keep good sound. So, the main thing to watch is speaker wire resistance, and for 16 Ohm speakers it should be under 1 Ohm, and for 8 Ohm speakers it should be under 0.5 Ohms. This can be a problem if the car wiring is for active speakers because they use a shielded twisted pair to the speakers that is not particularly low resistance. Another thing to watch is going from 16 or 32 Ohm speakers to 8 Ohm speakers; the car's wiring may not be big enough.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Let us know how it goes. Ask if you have problems.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 4 weeks later...

1. I removed the front door speakers that were 6.5 standard stock non bose and replaced them with 6.8 4 way max pioneers. Once I removed the cup casing were the speaker screwed into, I had to remanufacturer the speaker insert but it worked PERFECT.

2. The rear speakers were 5.25 also stock and replaced them with 3 way 6.5 Boss speakers. I had to remove the speaker notches but it was worth it. I sprayed all four speakers in the rear cone with undercoating spray to stop the moisture build up. Purchased the can from Auto Zone......

3. I ordered and installed a 10 inch Sub Kicker enclosed along with a 1500 watt mono block amp with a bass control in the front.

I stopped the rattling of the trunk from the sub by removing the plate that holds the back up lights and LIC Plate and installing a silicon rubber strip along ever part that rattled when I plucked it. The final outcome.....WOW, it sounds VERY GOOD.

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:bluesbrothers:

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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