05 Deville has ABS, TC & Brake light on with no ABS Codes

[IceCold]

Good Day Forum...The problem I have is with current 05 deville base model. I replaced my abs module and before I hooked it up, I cleaned off the electrical connections on all 3 contact points. After I completed the job, I cycled the engine 3 times with out cranking it so the system could recognize the update and it worked. I went on a 20 mile test drive around town and all was good. Tonight drove to the store and the abs light came on 1st, then then break and traction control. The SES "CHECK ENGINE" light came on and I got the following codes.

Current

IPM B0429

PCM P0141

PCM P0036

AMP U1000

NO IRC DATA

NO ACTIVE ABS CODES

History

ABS C1217 Code cleared history but came up until I replaced ABS Module

ABS C1248 " same as above "

ABS C1298

SDM U1000

IPC U1000

PCM U1040

Just check the codes and ABS,TC & BRAKE light just cleared. I noticed my lights were dimming on and off, so I assumed it was my ABS Pump coming on and off. It also seemed that it has cooled off and no works, but the problem is still there. I was also told that I need a new brake caliber because of the drivers side was sticking at times. I was planning on sending off extra ABS MODULE for repair. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Cadillac Jim]

CURRENT
B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance

P0141 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0036 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

AMP
U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

NO IRC DATA
IRC Integrated Radio Chassis

NO ACTIVE ABS CODES

HISTORY

ABS
C1217 Pump Motor Shorted to Ground
C1248 EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On
C1298 PCM Class 2 Serial Data Link Malfunction

SDM (Air Bag)
U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

IPC
U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

PCM
U1040 Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS

The ABS pump motor comes on when you have locked the brakes and are in a skid and the EBTCM program for ABS turns on the pump to take control of the brakes. It doesn't come on while driving down the street or when you are not pressing you foot on the brake pedal. Whatever was causing your lights to flicker, it wasn't the ABS pump. If the engine is just over idle and the headlights and A/C are on, it could just be the alternator voltage.

There are a *lot* of network codes. One of them says that your radio is dead, or at least off the network. Another CURRENT code says that your IPM can't talk over the network to some modules, meaning that there may be dead or offline modules that would throw codes if the IPM could get the message to display them.

At this point, I would say to make sure that yuour battery is charged and that your battery cables are clean and tight, clear the codes and look again, and if the same CURRENT codes come up for the IPM and IRC, check the wiring harness under the dash.

[IceCold]

Thank you for your reply, I thought you would be the one to respond to my post by your bio, and I'm glad to get a reply.

1. This morning, I started the car and dash was clean with no codes. Then, after about 5 minutes the abs,tc & brake light came on and stayed on. Battery and alternator tested good and in range from (Autozone). I had a transmission put in about 1.5 months ago and that's when my nightmare started. Would a loose ground cause my brake problem?

2. I replaced the factory standard radio (nothing worked on it) with a double dinn jvc and the sub in the center because it was busted up. I used all correct hook ups to keep my DIC and onstar but not the steering wheel module, only because the new unit had a remote to it. I replaced the O2 sensors (3) and found the O2 fuse blown under the hood fuse box.

My L/F (drivers side) caliber seems to be sticking because it does spin free as the passenger side. Would that also throw the abs, brake and TC on?

Thanks for your reply

[Cadillac Jim]

Yes, a bad EBTCM ground can be causing some of your problems. There are two grounds on the EBTCM and both of them must be good. The high-current ground that runs the ABS motor is directly from the back of the motor to a chassis (or engine block) ground. The resistance from the black wire in the EBTCM connector to ground must be well under 1 Ohm. Either of these grounds being bad can cause your C1298, C1248, or U1040. The ground on the ABS motor being bad or even missing could cause your C1217 but a bad connection in both of the big red wires or a bad BRAKE 50 Amp maxifuse are more likely.

The aftermarket radio does not have an IRC module in it. The factory radio sometimes has an amplifier behind the back seat, and you are getting a U1000 code trying to talk to it, too. If you are up to it, you might want to reprogram your options so that the IPM does not interrogate the IRC and AMP modules for codes, which will throw a network error. It's possible that the network goes through the radio and the aftermarket setup may put some modules off the network; I'll look into that tomorrow, but it's not likely. The later network nodes don't use repeaters in different module like they did in early OBD II systems.

I may be wrong, but you have four oxygen sensors. Two of them are on the exhaust manifolds. The one that you are not seeing is probably Bank 1 Sensor 1, which is hard to see because it's between the engine and the firewall. It's not throwing a code. The one throwing the code is the front oxygen sensor on the cat. The oxygen sensors on the cat are different from the oxygen sensors on the exhaust manifolds and serve different purposes.

A sticking caliper will not, in itself, cause a code. Every warning light is linked to at least one OBD code.

[IceCold]

Thank you again for all your help!

I checked all fuses related to the abs module and all seemed good. I even cleaned the connectors of point of contact. After I replaced that sticking caliber, I went under the bottom and found what could be the problem. There are 2 black wires coming from the group of wires that plug into the abs unit (EBTCM) that are ground. One wire is a lot thicker than the other. See photo below..........I cut the bad portion and reconnected them but didn't have the correct gauge for the thicker gauge wire.

The abs and brake light went out, but the Traction Control light remains on then went out. The abs,brake and traction control takes awhile to go off, and I'm thinking that's because I didn't use the correct size gauge wire on the thicker of the two.

I would like to reprogram to show the aftermarket radio in correct position. Their's a amp located behind the rear seat on drivers side that I will be replacing in the near future, so any guidance would help

O2 sensors replaced were the front by the radiator, behind the engine between the firewall and the one that's down stream that you can reach on the passenger side under the bottom. Cant find the last one but what's the odds of all O2 sensors going out at one time?

Update: Drove car about 40 miles today and I noticed that when I let the car cycle through checks with the abs,tc and brake light then drive off, I have no problems with abs. I started car and above lights were still on had repeating problem with abs unit. Purchased 10 gauge wire and new ground connector. I will finally fix this issue (fingers cross).

Now a new problem...LOL....I have antifreeze leaking out by the passenger tire just about under the reservoir but reservoir seems fine.

[Cadillac Jim]

If the aftermarket radio doesn't have modules in it, you can't program the car to show it at all. The best thing to do is to program it as not having a radio so it doesn't throw network codes and give messages like "NO IRC DATA".

I looked at the 2002 FSM, which isn't the same as your 2000 but probably is OK for oxygen sensors. It only shows three oxygen sensors.

The fact that you were getting multiple codes on both manifold oxygen sensors is what made me think of a fuse. The one "by the radiator" is on the front exhaust manifold and is Bank 2 Sensor 1. The one behind the engine between the firewall is on the exhaust manifold and is Bank 1 Sensor 1. These two are the ones that the PCM uses to adjust mixture in the fuel injection.

I think you need to look at the fuse and the voltages on the oxygen sensor. The back one is hard to get to but the front one should be easy,and whatever you find and fix will likely fix the back one too since they have the same codes. Most likely first, it's the fuse, the wiring, or the wrong oxygen sensors for the car.

[IceCold]

I'll swap the front O2 sensor out tomorrow along with my other problems. I reconnected the EBTCM wires together by twisting them and reconnected the hook to the wires so I could mount it to the bolt for the ground. Still have a problem of the ABS,TC and brake light comes on and now I can hear the abs pump motor running until I step on the brake it shuts off, and clear light from DIC. (Going to soldier and run 2 separate grounds since its 2 ground wires. (FINGERS CROSS)

After my test drive last night about 20 minutes, I pulled in the garage, turned off the car, and anti freeze GUSHED out of the over flow tube from the resevoir for atleast 5 minutes. When I took the radiator cap off, it started to come out of their. Water pump not making any kind of noise, so I guess the thermostat not opening all the way....At a lost right now.

[barczy01]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORVETTE-ABS-COMPUTER-EBCM-REBUILD-REPAIR-/380390434250?pt=Automotive_Services&hash=item58910965ca&vxp=mtr

I have sent many EBTCM's to this place and they do wonders.

[Cadillac Jim]

Most EBTCM failures at high mileage are relay failures. The relays can be changed by a qualified electronics laboratory; don't try this at home because the circuit board is multi-layer and easily ruined with a soldering iron (they are assembled with a wave soldering machine) and the only way you have to test it is to put it back in the car. I've heard good things about good EBTCM rebuilders. Also, the EBTCM needs to be programmed for your car for best ABS, TC and ESC performance, and if you send yours in for repair you don't need to think about that.

Thank you for the link, barczy01.

[IceCold]

I'll give them a try...Been reading a lot of post concerning my coolant problem and gonna see if a new radiator cap is my problem. It does look warn with part of the rubber seal missing. Thanks for all your help...Will post back once it comes back in from shop.

[Cadillac Jim]

If the rubber seal is missing from the radiator cap, it is definitely not capable of holding pressure and you need a new one.

[IceCold]

Just purchased a new one from napa 18psi and my leak is fixed........Getting ready to solder my wires and ship my EBTCM off for repair...I'll be good and can stay out of my wife's VAN!

[Cadillac Jim]

Great! I love vans when I need one but for my daily driver I *must* have something that will handle. I could never live with a sport-ute or van for my dailiy driver. I do understand that the SRX drives like a dream, and I found out many years ago that a station wagon, properly set up, can handle quite well.