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So my girl turned 200,000 and has decided to spring a leak! I have traced it to be right behind the water pump where the pulley for it is. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on if I can just replace the water pump and its gasket or do I need to do what BBF has done in this post with taking the whole crossover off and replacing its gaskets as well?

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13525&page=3

I ask this question because in MN now its getting into balmy teens this week, which is quite warm, so I just need to know how many layers I need before I go out to the unheated garage! I have it ripped down to the water pump now where I can rent a tool and pull it out and replace the gasket behind it. Also, do I need to take the crossover off to put a new water pump belt on? Looks like I might be able to squeeze thru but just wanted to know for sure before I went out and bought it.

thanks in advance, could not have made 200,000 without all your guys' help!

Koushka

Edited by koushka
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If it is the water pump leaking, just replace the water pump. Bruce will rent the tool to you if you can't find it but they are available in most parts stores. It will be the stamped style which is not as good as the Snap-On that Bruce rents but you can use an air impact wrench if the pump won't move. Turn the pump CLOCKWISE to remove anc COUNTERCLOCKWISE to install - just the opposite of what you're used to.

Removing the entire crossover is a major PITA... I would not want to do that even in a heated garage!

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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More often than not, dripping on the pulley side of the water pump cartridge drive shaft indicates a failed drive shaft seal O ring. Replacing the cartridge is the fix. And the cartridge tool is required.

The pump cover will need a new rubber seal (there are no 'gaskets' involved with the water pump assembly).

And you can twist the belt in and out but it would be easier to deal with the old and new belts while the cartridge is removed.

Wait until the pump job is finished before you go looking for problems with the crossover gaskets.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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  • 2 weeks later...

It has been a series of unfortunate events in my life, so I had to stall this project, got to it on Sunday, doesn't seem to be leaking at all after the install and thank you for the tips on which way to turn the pump! Now though it seems I can't get the coolant to circulate, if I drive it the temp starts to climb way over 12 o'clock so much so I needed to pull over. That was on Monday, today I just idled it and it stayed at 12 o'clock on the temp gage but the lower radiator hose was cool and the upper one was steaming. Also it did not feel like anything was circulating thru the two hoses at all except steam. I cleaned the purge line hole when I had everything apart so I know its not that. Could it be just a bad brand new thermostat?

thanks again guys for all that you do!

koushka

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Look at the bypass hose, which has a rubber hose to a "bolt-with-a-hole" near the water pump that connects to a metal hose that goes under the beauty cover, then connects to another rubber hose that connects to the surge tank. Check it by pulling it off the surge tank and starting the engine; if it runs freely its OK. If it's kinked or clogged, air pockets at the thermostat will stay there and the cooling system won't work.

But the temperature is taken from the ECT sensor, which means that the cylinder heads are being held at the right temperature. If the bottom radiator hose is cool, it may just mean that the rate of flow is low and the water coming out of the radiator isn't hot, which is normal.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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You do have the water pump bent installed/routed correctly right? Is the tensioner tensioning the belt properly?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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same here. I wonder if the tensioner isnot holding proper tension now after being disturbed. I just hit 200k with my 96 Deville recently. love it

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If you didn't change the water pump belt and tensioner when you changed the water pump, now's a good time.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I checked the tension on the belt and the installation, all is well. Pulled the purge line off and started it up and it flowed, not much pressure but it was a full stream out of the end of the hose. So I started the car up let it warm up again and waited a bit to see what would happen. I left the surge tank cap off the entire time, like 20 minutes, all was clear blowing hot air, so I put the cap back on and went for a drive and it stayed at 12 o'clock! Going for a little longer drive later and see how she does.

You guys rock!

thank you,

Koushka

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